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Cabled Baby Vest

I've knit lots of things in my life for other people's babies, but now that I have my own, I realize some of the mistakes I've made. Small neck openings, scratchy materials, bulky yarns, difficult buttons. So, with four months of experience under my belt, I set about designing a vest for the real life of my baby.

There are two truths about my son: he never stops moving and he's a hot little potato. For months I've been rummaging his drawers for a layer that would keep his core warm (but not too warm!) without encumbering his arms, but I came up empty handed every time.

The solution is obvious. This boy has been practically begging for a cotton vest. One that has buttons on the shoulder to minimize the over-the-head struggle, a super soft feel to prevent unpleasant baby rashes, and classic cables to make him look cute!

 

Materials

  • 2 skeins of Rowan's Purelife DK, 100% organic cotton for the main color. I used Natural #986.
  • 1 skein of Rowan's Purelife DK for the contrast color. This is Logwood #981.
  • 3 stitch holders (Optional: you can use scrap yarn to hold your stitches if you prefer.)
  • A cable stitch holder (Also optional: you can use a double pointed needle instead. Whether you use a cable stitch holder or a double pointed needle, make sure it is at least one size smaller than the main knitting needle you use.)
  • 2 buttons, 1/2 inch in diameter (I used some old buttons I happened to have, so you won't find them on our website, but you'll find other cute options there!)

 

Pattern

 

Gauge

7 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in the cable pattern with the larger needle (5 1/4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch)

Finished Size

3 months to 6 months

Chest circumference = 19 inches

Hem to underarm = 6 inches

Hem to shoulder = 10 1/4 inches

(Babies come in a wide range of sizes and shapes. Try to measure the recipient if you can. If you can't, rest assured that cotton is quite maleable, stretching with a little blocking and shrinking with a little time in the dryer.)

Notes

How to Adjust the Size

The easiest way to adjust the size of this vest is to alter the gauge. Instead of knitting the cable pattern at 7 1/2 stitches to the inch, change just the needle size (for slight size adjustments) or the yarn and needle size (for more extreme adjustments) to knit the pattern at a smaller or bigger gauge.

To figure out what gauge you need, divide 144 (the cast on number) by the chest circumference you want. So, for example, if you want a 22 inch chest: 144 divided by 22 = 6.5 stitches to the inch (in the stitch pattern and blocked).

You may have to alter the number of rounds and rows you knit in order to get the right length from the hem to the underarms and from the underarms to the shoulders. If the recipient of the vest isn't on hand to measure, I recommend referring to other sweater patterns that list or diagram these measurements for the size you want to make. (The Child's Placket Sweater in Last Minute Knitted Gifts has a great schematic for a wide range of baby to child sizes.)

How to Make the Cable

To make the cable used in this pattern, first slip two stitches onto a cable needle (or double pointed needle). Slip the stitches purlwise, which means, insert the right needle into each stitch as if you were purling it.

Bring the cable needle with the two slipped stitches to the front of the work. Let it hang there while you go on to knit the next 2 stitches from the left knitting needle.

Slide the slipped stitches to the other end of the cable needle. Do not spin the cable needle or try to knit the stitches from the same end that you used to slip the stitches.

Now use the right knitting needle to knit the two stitches off the cable needle.

That's it! In this pattern the abbreviation for making a cable will be "mc".

The Ribbing

With the contrast yarn and the 24 inch US #5 needle, cast on 144 stitches.

Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Rounds 1-5: *P1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.

The Body

Change to the main yarn and the US #6 needle.

Set Up Round: Knit.

Rounds 1-4: P1, *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k4, p1.

Round 5: P1, *make a cable (mc), p2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, mc, p1.

Round 6: Repeat Round 1 (P1, *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k4, p1).

Repeat Rounds 1-6 six more times.

Next Round: Repeat Round 1..

Next Round: Bind off 5 stitches (always bind off in pattern, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches), p1, [k4, p2] 10 times, bind off 10 stitches, p1, [k4, p2] 10 times, bind off 4 stitches, cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

Slip the next 62 stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.

Front Armholes

With the right side facing you, join new yarn and work back and forth on just the 62 stitches that are on the needles.

**Row 1 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, k2, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. (59 stitches)

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches, p2, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, p3. (56 stitches)

Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, *p2, mc, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, slip next 2 stitches to cable needle (cn), hold in front of work, k1, k2 from cn. (54 stitches)

Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1. (52 stitches)

Row 5: K1, ssk, *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k4, k2tog, k1. (50 stitches)

Row 6: P1, p2tog, p3, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k2, p3, p2tog through the back loop (tbl), k1. (48 stitches)

Row 7: K1, ssk, k2, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p2, k2, k2tog, k1. (46 stitches)

Row 8: *P4, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p4.

Row 9: K1, ssk, k1, *p2, mc, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog, k1. (44 stitches)

Row 10: P3, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, p3.

Row 11: K1, ssk, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k2tog, k1. (42 stitches)

Row 12: P2, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, p2.

Row 13: K2, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, k2. ***

Row 14: P2, [k2, p4] 2 times, k2, p2, bind off 6 stitches, p1, [k2, p4] 2 times, k2, p2. (18 stitches remain for each shoulder)

Front Left Shoulder

Work just the 18 stitches of the front left shoulder ("left" as if you were wearing the vest). The other 18 stitches can just remain on the needle or, if you prefer, you can put them on a stitch holder until later.

Row 1 (right side): K2, [p2, mc] two times, p2, k2.

Row 2: Bind off 2 stitches, k1, [p4, k2] two times, p2. (16 stitches)

Row 3: K2, p2, k4, p2, k3, k2tog, p1. (15 stitches)

Row 4: K1, [p4, k2] two times, p2.

Row 5: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2, k2tog, k1. (14 stitches)

Row 6: [P4, k2] two times, p2.

Row 7: K2, p2, mc, p2, k1, k2tog, k1. (13 stitches)

Row 8: P3, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 9: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2tog, k1. (12 stitches)

Row 10: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 11: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 12: Repeat Row 10.

Row 13: K2, p2, mc, p2, k2.

Rows 14-18: Repeat Rows 10 and 11, ending with Row 10.

Row 19: Repeat Row 13.

Rows 20 and 21: Repeat Rows 10 and 11.

Slip the stitches onto a stitch holder and cut the yarn.

Front Right Shoulder

Working the 18 remaining stitches, join new yarn with the wrong side facing you.

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, [k2, p4] two times, k2, p2.

Row 2: Bind off 2 stitches, p1, [mc, p2] two times, k2. (16 stitches)

Row 3: P2, k2, p4, k2, p3, p2togtbl, k1. (15 stitches)

Row 4: P1, [k4, p2] two times, k2.

Row 5: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2, p2togtbl, p1. (14 stitches)

Row 6: K4, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 7: P2, k2, p4, k2, p1, p2togtbl, p1. (13 stitches)

Row 8: K3, p2, mc, p2, k2.

Row 9: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2togtbl, p1. (12 stitches)

Row 10: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 11: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Rows 12 and 13: Repeat Rows 10 and 11.

Row 14: K2, p2, mc, p2, k2.

Row 15: Repeat Row 11.

Row 16: Repeat Row 10.

Row 17: Repeat Row 11.

Change to US #5 needles and the contrast yarn.

Row 18: Knit.

Row 19: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 20: [K1, p1] three times, yo, p2tog, [k1, p1] two times.

Row 21: Repeat Row 19.

Bind off.

Back Armholes

Now working the 62 stitches that have been on hold, orient the work so the right side is facing you. Use the US #6 needle and join new yarn.

Repeat the Front Armholes section from the ** to the ***.

Row 14: Repeat Row 12. (P2, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, p2)

Row 15: K2, *p2, mc, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, k2.

Row 16: Repeat Row 12.

Row 17: Repeat Row 13. (K2, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, k2)

Row 18: Repeat Row 12.

Row 19: K2, [p2, k4] two times, p2, bind off 10 stitches, p1, [k4, p2] two times, k2. (16 stitches remain for each shoulder)

Back Left Shoulder

Work only the 16 stitches of the back left shoulder.

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, [k2, p4] two times, k2.

Row 2: Bind off 2 stitches, slip 1 stitch to the cn, hold in front of work, k next 2 stiches, k1 from cn, p2, mc, p2, k2. (14 stitches)

Row 3: P2, k2, p4, k2, p1, p2togtbl, p1. (13 stitches)

Row 4: K3, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 5: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2togtbl, p1. (12 stitches)

Row 6: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 7: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 8: K2, p2, mc, p2, k2.

Rows 9-13: Repeat Rows 7 and 6, ending with Row 7.

Row 14: Repeat Row 8.

Rows 15 and 16: Repeat Rows 7 and 6.

Join the Left Shoulders

Join the shoulders using a three needle bind off. Here's how:

Orient the two left shoulders so that the right sides are facing each other. Hold the stitch holder and needle parallel to each other.

Insert the needle into the first stitch from each shoulder and knit them together.

Knit the next two stitches together, and then slip the first stitch over the second, just like a normal bind off.

Continue the three needle bind off in the stitch pattern so that you knit the knit stitches together and purl the purl stitches together. When you've completed the row, cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

Back Right Shoulder

Working the 16 remaining stitches, join new yarn with the wrong side facing you.

Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 2 stitches, p3, k2, p4, k2, p2. (14 stitches)

Row 2: K2, p2, mc, p2, k1, k2tog, k1. (13 stitches)

Row 3: P3, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 4: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2tog, k1. (12 stitches)

Row 5: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 6: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 7: Repeat Row 5.

Row 8: K2, p2, mc, p2, k2.

Rows 9-12: Repeat Rows 5 and 6.

Change to US #5 needles and the contrast yarn.

Row 13: Purl.

Rows 14-16: *P1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.

Bind off.

Right Armhole Edging

With the right side facing you and starting at the middle of the underarm, use the contrast yarn and the 16 inch US #5 needle to pick up 64 stitches around the entire armhole.

Place a marker, and join to knit in the round.

Rounds 1-3: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Bind off.

Left Armhole Edging

With the right side facing you, use the contrast yarn and the 16 inch US #5 needle to pick up 3 stitches through both layers of the left shoulder ribbing (joining them together).

Pick up 61 more stitches around the left armhole, place a marker and join for knitting in the round. (64 stitches total)

Rounds 1-3: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Bind off.

Neckband

With the contrast yarn, the 16 inch US#5 needle and the right side facing you, pick up the first stitch at the corner of the inside layer of the left shoulder ribbing.

Pick up a total of 71 stitches around the entire neckband. Work the neckband back and forth, turning the work between rows.

Row 1 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 2: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2tog, yo, p1, k1.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Bind off.

Buttons

Sew on two buttons right below the buttonholes on the left shoulder.

Your baby vest is all done!

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46 Responses to Cabled Baby Vest


  1. yvette says:

    congrats on making such a cute baby! i was wondering how the cabling effects gauge. i don’t know how to cable and would like to make a plain stockingette version – will your pattern still work (if i just ignore the cables?)

  2. nafeesa says:

    Hi there,
    This sweater is BEAUTIFUL!!!! i cant wait to get started…but i have a lot of questions…i hav a lot of caron simply soft yarn at home..can i use that??and will i get the same gauge with the same size needles OR will i have to change the size of the needle?plz reply..i want to get started with it right away..THANKS a ton for this pattern..I LOVE it!!

  3. Lizzet says:

    Hi

    The design is beautiful! Thank you for sharing it :)
    Do you stock the cable stitch holder shown in the pics at Purl Soho? I am working on a cable scarf and using a beautiful noro yarn and I think that stich holder will make my life much easier.

  4. Ginny says:

    Cute vest and excellent directions and photos! Yvette – If you have never cabled before, this would be a great project to learn on due to the photos. Cabling is such fun and you’ll be addicted to it almost right away.

  5. Laurel says:

    Darling vest…would make a lovely gift. Is there a way to get/print the directions without 30 pages of printing on my computer? Such a waste of paper and huge item to store.

  6. purl bee says:

    Hi Laurel,
    We’re working on making downloadable pdfs of our patterns, but its a work in progress! In the meantime, we recommend copying and pasting the text and whatever photos you want into a word document and printing it from there.

  7. Annamarie says:

    omg hes beautiful!!!!!!! i just conquered knitting a few months ago and im dying to learn something new and slightly more advanced than bordered stockinette and ribbing lol…
    plenty of new babies coming into the family, now i have an excuse to buy some yummy baby yarn! thank u for the pattern!

  8. Max says:

    Well I *love* the vest, and will be able to make use of this pattern for two baby boys coming right up, but I must say: this baby here does not need a lot of help in the “making him look cute” department. He is absolutely adorable! You must be kissing him to pieces.

    Thanks for this and so many other wonderful patterns, Whit.

  9. Susannah says:

    Beautiful tutorial. I’m not yet ambitious enough to try…however, my friend has a new one coming this winter…

  10. Emily says:

    This sweater vest is adorable! I have started it, but am not sure why I would be using 24″ circulars if the sweater circumference is supposed to be 19″. Seems like it is difficult to keep the stitches moving around the needle beacause they are pretty stretched and i’m wondering if it is stretching out my stitches and throwing off my gauge as well. Anyone else have any ideas?

  11. Hannah says:

    I have 12 (yes 12!) nephews and have been dying for a cute boy pattern. Thank you so much for this – it will look adorable on number 12.

  12. Sue says:

    What a precious baby!

  13. Line says:

    Very charming little baby vest ! and an adorable little boy! Thank you very much for the pattern and great inspiration for knitting myself. – The fabric shown in the background, with delicate motifs and french words – where can that be found?

  14. purl bee says:

    Hi LIne,
    Unfortunately that fabric is completely sold out. It was from Japan and we loved it! You might want to look through our other Japanese fabrics if you like this one, there are quite a few charming prints available. Here is a link to our Japanese fabrics:
    http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/fabriclist/style,19

  15. nafeesa says:

    hi there,
    i finally completed the vest and it came out just perfect size for my nephew,he is 2 yrs old. i want to show you the picture but i dont know how to send it to u, he looks so adorable in tht vest and he totally loves it.THANK YOU SO MUCH.

  16. Fresh Poppy Design says:

    Okay, you are fabulous!!! I am so excited to look all over your blog, I’ve recently become obsessed with knitting myself. You’re amazing.

  17. knithal says:

    Whit,

    Thank you so much for this pattern! I’ve just finished making it (with the exception of the buttons – need to buy some this weekend) as a surprise for a friends’ nine month old – he’s apparently long & thin for his age, so I put an extra repeat of the cable pattern in the body and am hoping it fits…

    I’ll be putting up some pics on Ravelry soon, my name there is knithal too, I used Jo Sharp’s DK cotton in Grove, a deep green, as the contrast yarn (bit tricky to knit with due to fine strands, but hey), and Bendigo Woollen Mills’ 8-ply cotton in Latte for the main colour (a dark/dirty cream, this yarn is an absolute joy to work with!) – the recipient is a little redhead, so he looks great in greens :-)

    I’m a bit of a beginner and this was my first attempt at anything cabled, but your pattern made it so easy, and I’m really pleased with & proud of how it’s turned out – thank you!

  18. monica says:

    I am hoping to make this for a baby’s christening outfit, think I have found a good white in blue sky alpaca’s skinny cotton, it is DK weight and similar gauge I hope. Also I was wondering if you have a suggestion for a cable hat to match?
    Thanks so much for the detailed directions, this is going to be my first cable project. I think I’m ready . . .

  19. Andrea says:

    *Gasp!* What a beautiful baby. He looks so handsome in his vest.

  20. crumblecake says:

    Forgive my ignorance, I'm a new knitter…what do I do if I don't have a 16″ cable? (my interchangeable set only goes down to 24″ unfortunately) Can I then switch to DPNs? Any other suggestions? Just want to be sure I have what I need before starting this. Adorable pattern!

  21. purl bee says:

    Hi Crumblecake-

    You can use DPNs instead of the 16″ circular needle. But you might want to invest in a 16″ circular needle since it's a very handy length to have around. Here is a link to our selection of circular needles:

    http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8-Skacel-Addi-Turbo-Circular-Needles

    Thanks for your question!-

    Molly

  22. Samantha says:

    If I wanted to make a newborn size and adjusted the needle size down should I also do it on 16″ circular needles instead of the 24″ or do you think it will fit just fine on the 24″ needles? (this is my first circular knitting needle project)

  23. purl bee says:

    Hi Samantha,

    I would use a 16 or 20 inch circular for a newborn size. I think you'd have to struggle a bit to get the stitches around a 24 inch…

    Thanks for your question and good luck!

    Whitney

  24. JMacKnits says:

    Thanks so much for this awesome pattern and amazingly detailed blog! I just finished my nephew's Easter vest and will be taking pictures ASAP. Thank you so much! It is amazing!

  25. Anagha says:

    Hullo – I absolutely love this pattern…I'm trying it as my first attempt at making a vest…conveniently my cousin is about to have a baby, so I figured it'd be as a good an excuse as any to expand my horizons a bit!

    I am a bit confused on one part, though, I'm working off 144 sts, as written, and was reading ahead in the pattern. When it comes to the body, where you begin to bind off 5 sts etc…I'm not getting the stitch count to add up to 144…I'm not sure if I'm reading it wrong, or if it will become obvious when I get to that point. Similarly it says to transfer the next 62 stitches onto a stitch holder…I'm seeing more than 62 stitches free there!

    As I said, I'm new at this so it's most likely me, but, help!

    Thanks!

  26. Carol Wulfson says:

    Making this for my grand daughter…it will be perfect this winter over a long sleeved onsey. I'd like to use Zara Merino extra fine which (after making a swatch) is the same guage and which I already have. I'd like to make this in 1 year size, though, and am a relatively new knitter. Can I just add 12 stitches and continue a few inches longer? I am exhausted from searching the internet for an exact gauge and size and your design is truly the nicest. If I use huge needles, the sweater will be too “open.”

  27. purlbee says:

    HI Carol,

    Yes, you can add 12 stitches to the cast on and also knit a few inches longer, but you will probably run into some challenges when you get to the armholes and neck shaping. If you're an experienced knitter you should be able to figure out how to adjust as you go, but if you're more of a beginner you might run into some trouble. If you're comfortable with a little improvisation, I say go for it!

    Thanks for your question and good luck!

    Whitney

  28. Carol Wulfson says:

    THank you for the advice.

  29. Dea says:

    Hi
    Thank you sooo much for the lovely pattern. I had the same problem as Anagha because I also read ahead and instead of 144 stitches I only counted 141. The reason seems to be that each time you are asked to do a bind-off one live stitch remains. So the three separate bind- offs produce 3 extra stitches which I forgot to add (141+3=144)
    The easiest thing is to just start knitting according to the pattern and it will automatically add up.

    I hope this helps all those who read ahead and got confused and worried.

  30. Sandi says:

    I am an experienced knitter having a very difficult time making this vest for a 3 month old baby. If I follow the pattern, the size is gigantic! I've reduced the size of the needles and I am using a DK baby bamboo but the 144 stitches would fit my 4 year old granddaughter. Help!

  31. purl bee says:

    Hi Sandi-

    We're so sorry to hear that you're having a hard time with this!

    It sounds like your gauge might be different than the pattern calls for and you might need to drastically reduce your needle size. I (Molly) am a very loose knitter and often have to go down 2 or 3 needle sizes. You will need to do a gauge swatch to make sure that you're getting the right gauge, which is 7 1/2-stitches per inch in the cable pattern. If you are getting this gauge it should work and get the finished measurements listed. If you are getting the proper gauge and still having a problem please get back in touch.

    Thank you for writing in!

    Molly

  32. Rachel says:

    I'd love to make this for a friend's baby but all the stitch holders and joining yarn frightens me! Is there a knack to joining new yarn in cases like this? I've tried it with another project at the moment and because the new yarn isn't secured (I'm just leaving a long tail to sew in later), the first stitch is impossible to keep tight and I've been told not to knot!) – any tips?!

  33. purl bee says:

    Hi Rachel,

    It is a little disconcerting that the stitches at join are so loose, but rest assured that when you sew your tails in at the end, you will have the opportunity to tighten them! But if the looseness bothers you too much, you can do what some people do which is to tie a temporary knot with the two ends. You'll just untie it when it's time to weave them in.

    I hope this gives the confidence to give this vest a try – it's a lot of fun! Good luck and thanks for your question!

    Whitney

  34. Jasmeen says:

    I'm knitting this for my new baby. The pattern is great and the vest is turning out really adorable. The problem I'm running into is when picking up stitches for the contrast yarn at the armholes. I'm getting over 80 stitches at the right armhole instead of the 64 stitches as stated in the pattern. Is there a guide as to how to pick stitches or where to skip any stitches?

  35. purlbee says:

    Hi Jasmeen,

    Often when you're picking up stitches along a vertical stretch of knitting, you pick up three out of every four rows (and sometimes two out of three). This is because of the difference between stitch and row gauge.

    Anyway, it sounds like you picked up one stitch for every row and that skipping a stitch every four rows will fix the problem!

    Thanks for asking!
    Whitney

  36. Dolly says:

    Hi

    I love this pattern. Thank you for sharing it with us. The instructions show how simple it is to knit and the illustrations are so helpful. I have been unable to print off the instructions. Is there another way in which I could approach this as there are so many things to remember with this pattern.

  37. purl bee says:

    Hi Dolly-

    We suggest that you copy the text (without the photos) and then paste it into a Word or Text document to print from there.

    Sorry there isn't a simpler solution. It's something we're working on.

    Good luck with the project!

    Molly

  38. nung says:

    Hi, Molly, I made this cable vest. I loove it very much and enjoyed knitting it. Thank you.

  39. Fiona says:

    Hi Thank you for the pattern. I have started it and am now working on the body part and have done round 1-6 1 time and is doing 2nd time of round 1-6 but somehow I am not getting the cable look at all. I wonder where could I have messed up?

    I have done the 5 rows of ribbing then transferred it to a bigger needle, knitted 1 round and followed closely for round 1-6 one time. Then I am now doing the 5th row (the cable row) on the second times but there is nothing that look like your cable vest on mine? Wonder what could have happened?

  40. purl bee says:

    Hi Fiona,

    Hmmm…. I wonder if you just need to work a little bit further to see the cable pattern really develop?

    Otherwise, I'm not sure exactly what you could be doing wrong, but I'd encourage you to review the explanation of How to Make the Cable at the beginning of the pattern. Keep in mind that making a cable is essentially just putting a set of stitches on hold while you knit the following stitches, then knitting the first stitches, essentially bringing one group of stitches in front (or behind) another group.

    I hope you sort it out! If not, please let us know and we'll try again!

    Whitney

  41. Jeni says:

    Hi everybody, I'm trying to make this vest for my nephew who is 2 weeks old. I'm a relatively new knitter so I figure by the time it takes me to finish it he'll be at the right age to fit him ;) I've never done a cable before so I just want to make sure that I'm doing it right. Does the mc abbreviation actually mean slip two stitches on the cable holder, knit 2 and then go back to knit the ones on the holder? I read the instructions but it doesn't actually say how many stitches you have to knit before you go back to the slipped stitches. Thank you :)

  42. purl bee says:

    Hi Jeni,

    True, true! in all the years since this pattern posted, no one has ever mentioned that omission, so thank you for setting the record straight! I've added the small, but totally crucial, number 2 to the cable explanation.

    Thank you so much for your eagle eyes and congratulations on your new little nephew!

    Whitney

  43. Katie says:

    Hi,
    It seems that the "Rowan's Purelife DK" suggested for the vest is no longer available. Can you suggest a similar, all cotton yarn that would work? I really want to knit this for my son!
    Thanks!
    Katie

  44. purl bee says:

    Hi Katie,

    Yes! Blue Sky's Skinny Cotton would be a great substitute. You can find it right here: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3823-Blue-Sky-Skinny-Cotton

    And if you'd like to explore other options other than cotton, our whole collection of DK weight yarns is right here: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters=5

    Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks so much for this one!

    Whitney

  45. Erica says:

    I'm a bad girl & never knit a swatch to ck gauge! Like a previous post, my 144 stitches on size 6 needles gave me a 2T size! To compensate, I went down to a size 5 & reduced the stitch count 25% – this worked out great! But now I'm to the point in the pattern that calls for binding off at the arms & I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. I have 108 stitches on my needles & just bound off 5 per pattern instructions… Now what?!? Thanks for your help! -Erica

  46. purl bee says:

    Hi Erica,

    You actually end up binding off 10 stitches for each underarm in the original pattern. In your case you may want to reduce that number to 8 (4 at the beginning of the round and 4 at the end of the round). From there, you will work the front and then the back , adjusting the stitch pattern and counts for your situation.

    Thanks for your question and good luck!

    Whitney

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