I made this hat for my friend Bear out of the versatile, sturdy Kona Cotton Essex which comes in great reds, whites, and blues. It's a cotton linen blend so it has some body and it's totally easy to care for, just throw it in the wash after the fireworks.
To make one newborn-4 month sized hat.
- 1/4-yard Essex in Periwinkle (cap fabric)
- 1/4-yard Essex in Ivory (brim fabric)
- 3/4-yard Essex in Red for the (trim fabric) you could comfortably get a 1/2 a yard if you don't mind piecing strips together to make the 40-inch bias cut strip you need.
- 1/4-yard P and B Color Spectrum in Cloud (lining fabric)
- 1/4-yard Craft Fuse Interfacing (brim interfacing)
- 18mm Bias Tape Maker
- 100% cotton thread in color 1040 (off-white- for the main sewing) and 5910 (red- to match the trim fabric)
- A Forth of July Baby Sun Hat pattern, available for to download for free here, printed and cut out.
Cut all the pieces as directed on the pattern. You will have:
- 4- Outer Cap Panels in the cap fabric
- 4- Cap Lining Panels in the lining fabric
- 2- Brim Pieces in the lining fabric
- 2- Brim Pieces in the brim fabric
- 2- Brim Pieces in the interfacing
Additionally, from the trim fabric cut:
- 2- 1 1/2-inch by 17-inch strips. CUT ON THE BIAS. (If you need a quick reminder of how to cut something on the bias check out the cutting section of our boys tie project journal.)
- 1- 1/1/2-inch by 40-inch bias cut strip
Sewing the Cap
Pin together the outer cap panels in groups of two, right sides together. Sew along a long edge on both sets with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, as shown above.
Open up these two sets and pin them right sides together along the long sides, as shown above. Then sew these pieces together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Repeat this same process to sew the lining of the cap.
Sewing the Brim
Iron the interfacing brim pieces to the brim fabric pieces to fuse them together. Then pin the fused pieces right sides together at their short straight ends, as shown above.
Sew the brim together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Sew the brim lining together in the same manner, but without any interfacing.
Sewing on the Brim
Pin the outer brim to the outer cap, right sides together. Pinning around a circle can be a challenge; Start by pinning the two brim side seams to two opposite cap seams, then pin the middle of that section, and then the middle of each subsequent section. You can use as many pins as you need, just make sure it's pinned evenly.
Sew the brim to the cap with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Prepare the two 17-inch bias cut strips to become the ties by first ironing them through the bias tape maker. Then iron them in half lengthwise. Pin the folded sides together and edge stitch them shut along folded edge. If you need a refresher on edge stitching check out this link. Make sure to use the red thread here, it will hide any wobbles.
Tie a simple overhand knot to one end of each of the sewn bias tape strips.
Pin the brim lining to the cap lining in the same manner you did for the outer section only this time place the un-knotted end of the bias ties in between the brim and the cap at opposite sides of the hat. Place the ties so they stick out about 1/2-inch to the wrong side. The lining fabric will be right sides together with the ties in-between.
Sew the brim to the cap (this also sewing in the ties) with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Make sure the ties are facing the correct direction when you are done. They should hang down from the right sides of the lining fabric, and stick out a 1/2-inch from the brim/ cap seam.
Finishing the Hat
Hand sew the very tops of the lining and outer sections together though their seam allowances with a few tacking stitches. Make sure the stitches don't go through to the right sides of either the lining or the outer fabrics. I used a bright red thread for this step so it would be easier to see in the pictures but you should use a neutral color.
Slide the lining into the outer hat and line up the brim side seams together. Pin the lining to the outer hat along the brim. Wrap up the ties and pin them inside of the hat out of the way so you don't sew over them in the next step.
Sew right along the inside edge of the brim to attach the brim lining and outer brim together.
Trim the outside edge of the brim so that the lining, interfacing, and outer brim are all perfectly flush with one another.
Iron your 40-inch bias strip through the bias tape maker and then iron it in half lengthwise.
Starting at the back of the hat pin the bias tape all around the edge of the brim. Bias tape has a natural stretch which makes it good at going around curves. You can pull it a little to help get it pinned down smoothly with absolutely no folds or wrinkles. Leave a 3-inch tail and a 2-inch gap at the beginning and end of the pinned tape.
Edge stitch the bias tape onto the brim. Make sure that you are catching both sides of the bias tape and also make sure to use a thread that matches the bias tape, since it will mask a lot of mistakes. You can even go over a section if you didn't catch one side of the bias tape, as long as it's not at the front of the hat!
To get rid of the binding tails and close the gap sew the bias tape right sides together at the point where they would meet and trim off the excess. Then pin the strip down and edge stitch across the 2-inch gap. If this sounds confusing and you've never finished anything with bias tape in this way please see the "finish binding ends" section of one of our older stories here.
All done and ready for the sun!