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Father and Son Knit Ties

When it comes to gifts for my dad and brothers, I often find myself stumped. Thanks to Page's Rolled Hem Handkercheifs, their pockets are chock-full of squares; and thanks to years of knitting, their heads and feet are warmed by piles of hats and socks. In need of a new go-to gift, the Father Son Knit Ties were born!

Now, my dad and brothers aren't fancy men, but they are gentlemen of the southern variety. They don't flinch at dressing up, and somehow even their "casual" is always quite pulled together. I think these chic and simple hand knit ties will be right at home with their refined style, dressing up jeans and a sweater or adding a kick to slacks and a blazer.

I made these ties with two gorgeous yarns, Koigu's Premium Merino and Anzula's Sebastian: one matte and one shiny for  textural complexity and both with a sophisticated polish that makes these ties special!  The Father's Tie is in reverse stockinette with a handsome stripe, and the Son's Tie is a sweet and easy Fair Isle pattern. Both are delightful to make, for dads and brothers or yourself! And, just in time for Valentine's Day!

Materials

  • Main Color (MC): 1 skein of Anzula's Sebastian, 70% superwash merino, 30% sea cell. This is the color Seaside.
  • Contrast Color (CC): 2 skeins of Koigu's Premium Merino, 100% merino. This is the color 2400.
  • Five US #2 double pointed needles

This is enough yarn for one Father's Tie and one Son's Tie. If you are making just one of the Son's Ties, you will only need 1 skein of each yarn, if you are making one of the Father's Ties, you will need 2 Koigu and 1 Sebastian.. The Father's Tie takes approximately 245 yards, and the Son's Tie takeapproximately 150 yards.

Gauge

Son's Tie: 10 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Father's Tie: 10 stitches = 1 inch in reverse stockinette stitch

Sizes

Son's Tie: 1 1/4-inches wide by 42-inches long

Father's Tie: 1 3/8-inches wide by 56-inches long

Pattern: Son's Tie

Begin

Cast on 13 stitches with MC.

Set up Row: K1, *k1 but before removing it from the left-hand needle, bring the yarn to the front and purl that same stitch, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (24 stitches)

Rearranging the Stitches

Do not turn your work. Slide the stitches to the right end of the double pointed needle.

Holding two empty double pointed needles parallel to one another in your right hand, slip the first stitch onto the back needle, slip the second stitch onto the front, third onto the back, fourth onto the front, fifth onto the back. Continue in this fashion, slipping every even stitch onto the front needle and every odd stitch onto the back, until you have slipped all 24 stitches and there are 12 stitches on each needle.

Do not turn your work. Slide all the stitches to the right ends of the needles. Slip 6 stitches from the front needle onto a third double pointed needle, and slip 6 stitches from the back needle onto a fourth double pointed needleWith 6 stitches on each of four needles, use a fifth needle to begin working in the round. (After a few rounds when the work loosens up a bit, you may want to redistribute the stitches onto three needles.)

Work in the Round

* [K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Next Round: [K1, (k1 with CC, k3) 2 times, k1 with CC, k1, p1] 2 times.

[K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Next Round: [(K3, k1 with CC) two times, k3, p1] 2 times.

Repeat pattern from until piece measures approximately 41 1/2 inches from cast on edge. Before you've knit too many inches, make sure to turn your tie inside out and weave in the tail of the contrast yarn.

After your last row using the CC, cut yarn and weave in end.

[K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Rearranging the Stitches, Again

Slip the next 12 stitches onto one double pointed needle, and slip the remaining 12 stitches onto a second double pointed needle.

Hold the two needles parallel to one another in your left hand with the working yarn coming from the back needle.

With a third needle, K1 off the back needle, k11 through both the next stitch on the front and the back needle, p1 off the front needle. (13 stitches)

Bind off purlwise.

Block, weave in your ends and you are finished!

Pattern: Father's Tie

Begin

Using a Cable Cast On, cast on 16 stitches with MC.

Set up Row: K1, *k1 but do not remove it from the left needle, bring the yarn to the front and purl stitch, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (30 stitches)

Rearranging the Stitches

Do not turn your work. Slide the stitches to the right end of the double pointed needle.

Holding two empty double pointed needles parallel to one another in your right hand, slip the first stitch onto the front needle, slip the second stitch onto the back, third onto the front, fourth onto the back, fifth onto the front. Continue in this fashion, slipping every even stitch onto the back needle and every odd stitch onto the front, until you have slipped all 30 stitches and there are 15 stitches on each needle. 

Do not turn your work. Slide all the stitches to the right ends of the needles. Slip 7 stitches from the front needle onto a third double pointed needle, and slip 7 stitches from the back needle onto a fourth double pointed needle. With 7 stitches on each of two needles and 8 stitches on each of the other two needles, use a fifth needle to begin working in the round. (After a few rounds when the work loosens up a bit, you may want to redistribute the stitches onto three needles.)

Work in the Round

*[K1, p14] 2 times, for 11 rounds.

Next Round: [With CC, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, p14] 2 times.

Repeat from * until piece measures approximately 54 1/2 inches from cast on edge.

[K1, p14] 2 times, for 11 rounds.

Rearranging the Stitches, Again

Slip the next 15 stitches onto one double pointed needle, and slip the remaining 15 stitches onto a second double pointed needle.

Hold the two needles parallel to one another in your left hand with the working yarn coming from the back needle.

With a third needle, K1 off the back needle, p14 through both the next stitch on the back and the front needle, k1 off the front needle. (16 stitches)

Bind off knitwise.

Block, weave in your ends and you are finished!

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58 Responses to Father and Son Knit Ties


  1. purl bee says:

    Hi Julianna,
    1. Yes, there will be tails for each round of that uses the contrast yarn. The rounds using cc are too far apart to carry the yarn up along the inside.
    2. Yes, purling the one round will create what looks like two stripes.
    Please let me know if you have any more questions.
    Laura

  2. Amber says:

    Hi there,

    Thank you for the lovely designs – my brother in law, a tie-fanatic, is going to love this for Christmas!

    My question is about that little extra stretch that appears at the edge stitches when knitting in the round. Once I rearranged to three dps, I noticed what looked almost like a pantyhose run up both sides of the tie (at the point when I join from one needle to another). Is there a way to prevent this?

  3. purl bee says:

    Hi Amber,
    You are welcome. Glad you like the designs on our site.
    Gaps between stitches between double pointed needles are called ladders sometimes (because you can see the horizontal yarn stretching from one column of stitches to th next). These ladders can be prevented. If one round, every few rounds, you work the first stitch off the next needle onto your working needle (rather than the empty needle) this will shift the last / first stitch of each double pointed needle, helping to keep a consistent tension across all your stitches. Also, blocking will help too.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  4. Kylie says:

    I recently learned how to knit and thought this might be out of my skill level but after a few tries I have finally got it! Thank you for this great tutorial!

  5. Katrina says:

    Hello! Great pattern as always, and free at that, love you guys. But I have a question; can you describe how I would do the slip stitch area (after the increases) on magic loop?

    PS My daughter adores her toddler socks. ;)

  6. purl bee says:

    Hi Katrina,
    I asked out resident Magic Loop expert, Thomas, to field this question. Below is what he said. Please let us know if you have any questions!
    Laura

    I find that the slipping part actually makes a little more sense on magic loop. Here's how I would do it:
    -follow the directions for the cast on and increases.
    -slip all stitches to a stitch holder or a double point needle
    -fold long circular needle (the one to be used for magic loop) in half and follow the directions for slipping the stitches to either end of the circular needle alternatively. (You can imagine in the first picture after "rearranging the stitches", that the cord of the needle is off the picture to the right.)
    -skip all directions about slipping to four needles (anything after the second picture)
    -join to knit in the round as usual for magic loop following directions after "work in the round."
    NOTE: later in the pattern you can do the three needle bind off right off the end of the two tips of the circular needle… No rearranging needed. You just need a separate needle of the same size (double point or any type laying around works… It could probably even be one size up to assist with binding off loosely).

  7. Denise says:

    Hi, this is an interesting pattern, the first I found using the double knit which is pretty tricky to get started. I'm very good at knitting in the round and I fear that I may have made some sort of error in that first round. I'm not too concerned since it isn't that noticeable but I would highly suggest having someone in the know help anyone who is not used to knitting in the round.
    My question is…I am using only 1 color. After the initial 11 rounds, do I follow the next set of instructions: "Next Round: [With CC, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, p14] 2 times"…I'm wondering if the slip 1 purlwise is to just get the new color started? I can't tell if this first stitch would be knitted if I were keeping with the same color yarn. Thanks for your help!

  8. purl bee says:

    Hi Denise,
    Thank you for your feedback. The start of this project is a bit peculiar. I wanted to introduce a new technique and have a clean seam at the base of the tie. It has raise questions though. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

    As for the slip 1 purlwise with the CC… you are correct, this is to avoid having the CC in the column of knit stitches along the two sides. If you are working in all one color, you can knit that first and 16th stitch.
    Thanks for writing in.
    Let me know if you have any other questions.
    Laura

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