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Growing up as the sister of two older brothers, to say I was a tomboy is a bit of an understatement. I was one of the boys! While my girlfriends were playing softball, I insisted on being in the all-boys baseball league. My 'Sunday's Best' consisted of hand-me-down golf shirts, khaki pants and bucks. I blindly and adoringly echoed my brothers' every move. If they wouldn't wear it (or do it or like it), well then, neither would I.

 

everyday-linen-raglan-2-600-2So for those who knew me back then, my current love for linen dresses and fancy clutches, cashmere wraps and backless sweaters, floral hankies and pretty much all things fem is something of a shock. Yet while my style has drastically shifted, those tomboy roots do run deep. Put me in jeans and a t-shirt and I am one happy camper. Put me in jeans and a linen shirt, and I'm in heaven!

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This lightweight, 3/4-sleeve raglan top harkens back to sunny days at the ball park, but with the natural elegance and drape of 100% linen. It's the best of both worlds, classic and casual for everyday, but not without a pinch of feminine subtlety.

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Knit up in Euroflax's beautiful sportweight linen, this favorite yarn of mine pairs a rugged durability with a chic grace, a duality I have come to greatly appreciate!

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Materials

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Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, blocked

Sizes

Small/Medium (Medium/Large)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (40) inches
  • Finished Hip Circumference: 31 (34) inches
  • Bottom Hem to Underarm: 12 1/2 (13 3/4) inches
  • Cuff to Underarm: 12 inches

Pattern

Sleeves

NOTE: If you are long-limbed, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

Using the double pointed needles, cast on 57 (60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Purl 8 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [59 (62) stitches]

**Knit 7 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [61 (64) stitches]

Repeat from ** 10 more times. [81 (84)  stitches]

Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and put aside.

Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Body

With the 24 inch circular needle, use the provisional cast on method to cast on 188 (208) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit 16 rounds.

Hem the Bottom

Use the extra circular needle to pick up the cast on stitches. Once the cast on stitches are on the new needle, fold the fabric towards you so the knit sides are facing each other and the purl side of the hem is on the outside (the right side of the sweater should also be facing you). Holding the two left needles parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front needle together with 1 stitch from the back needle. Repeat to end of round. [188 (208) stitches]

Shape the Back Tail

NOTE: The back of the sweater has a slight dip formed by using Short Rows (working back and forth, turning the work part way through each round instead of continuing to the end of the needle). This portion of the pattern is optional. If you would like your sweater to be even across the bottom, skip ahead to the Body section below. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!

Row 1 (right side): K94 (104), place marker, k71 (81), wrap and turn.

Row 2 (wrong side):  P48 (58), wrap and turn.

Row 3: K48 (58), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: P50 (60), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Row 5: K52 (62), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 6: P54 (64), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this fashion, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the picked-up wrap, working one more stitch and then wrapping and turning. End with the wrong side row that starts with purling 90 (100).

Next Row (rs): K92 (102), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap.

Now continuing to work in the round again.

Next Round: Knit to 1 stitch past the next marker, pick up wrap on next stitch (this time knitting the wrap and stitch together through back loop), knit to end of round.

Continue  Body

NOTE: If you are long waisted, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

**Knit 10 (11) rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to marker, m1R, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to end of round, m1R. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat from ** 7 more times. [220 (240) stitches]

Knit 10 (11) rounds (or number required to reach desired length from bottom hem to underarm).

Yoke

Attaching the Sleeves

Knit to first marker, slip marker, knit across 81 (84) sleeve stitches, place marker, knit to end of round, place marker, knit across 81 (84) stitches of the second sleeve. [81 (84) stitches for each sleeve, 110 (120) stitches for front and back. 382 (408) total stitches]

Shape the Raglan

Decrease Round: *P1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. (8 stitches decreased)

Next Round: *P1, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last two rounds 12 (13) more times. [55 (56) stitches for each sleeve, 84 (92) stitches for front and back; 278 (296) total stitches]

Shape the V

NOTES:

  • Make one stitch purl-wise (m1 purl-wise): Pick up the strand between the last and next stitch from the back and purl through the front loop.
  • Slipped stitches are done purl-wise.

ERRATA:

  • December 29, 2013: For size Medium/Large, the Front stitches knit on either side of the "V" were corrected to coordinate with stitch counts.

Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [53 (54) stitches for each sleeve, 82 (90) stitches for back, 80 (88) stitches for front; 268 (286) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k37 (41), slip 1 (sl1), p2, sl1, k37 (41), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 2: P1, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, m1 purl-wise (see note above), p2, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [51 (52) stitches for each sleeve, 80 (88) stitches for back, 78 (86) stitches for front; 260 (278) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k35 (39), sl1, p4, sl1, k35 (39), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 3: P1, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p4, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [49 (50) stitches for each sleeve, 78 (86) stitches for back, 76 (84) stitches for front; 252 (270)  total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k33 (37), sl1, p6, sl1, k33 (37), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 4: P1, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p6, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [47 (48) stitches for each sleeve, 76 (84) stitches for back, 74 (82) stitches for front; 244 (262) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k31 (35), sl1, p8, sl1, k31 (35), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 5: P1, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p8, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [45 (46) stitches for each sleeve, 74 (82) stitches for back, 72 (80) stitches for front; 236 (254) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k29 (33), sl1, p10, sl1, k29 (33), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 6: P1, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p10, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [43 (44) stitches for each sleeve, 72 (80) stitches for back, 70 (78) stitches for front; 228, (246) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k27 (31), sl1, p12, sl1, k27 (31), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 7: P1, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p12, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [41 (42) stitches for each sleeve, 70 (78) stitches for back, 68 (76) stitches for front; 220 (238) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k25 (29), sl1, p14, sl1, k25 (29), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 8: P1, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p14, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [39 (40) stitches for each sleeve, 68 (76) stitches for back, 66 (74) stitches for front; 212 (230) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k23 (27), sl1, p16, sl1, k23 (27), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 9: P1, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p16, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [37 (38) stitches for each sleeve, 66 (74) stitches for back, 64 (72) stitches for front; 204 (222) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k21 (25), sl1, p18, sl1, k21 (25), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 10: P1, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p18, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [35 (36) stitches for each sleeve, 64 (72) stitches for back, 62 (70) stitches for front; 196 (214) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k19 (23), sl1, p20, sl1, k19 (23), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 11: P1, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p20, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [33 (34) stitches for each sleeve, 62 (70) stitches for back, 60 (68) stitches for front; 188 (206) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k17 (21), sl1, p22, sl1, k17 (21), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 12: P1, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p22, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [31 (32) stitches for each sleeve, 60 (68) stitches for back, 58 (66) stitches for front; 180 (198) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k15 (19), sl1, p24, sl1, k15 (19), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 13: P1, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p24, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [29 (30) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (66) stitches for back, 56 (64) stitches for front; 172 (190) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k13 (17), sl1, p26 , sl1, k13 (17), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Medium/Large Size Only

Decrease Round 14: P1, k2tog, k14, ssk, m1 purl-wise, p26, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14, ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [28 stitches for each sleeve, 64 stitches for back, 62 stitches for front; 182 stitches]

Next Round: P1, k14, sl1, p28, sl1, k14, p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Both Sizes

[29 (28) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (64) stitches for back, 56 (62) stitches for front; 172 (182) total stitches]

Collar

Next Round: Purl, placing a removable stitch marker on the first stitch of the round.

Next Round: Knit.

Decrease Round: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)

Repeat last two rounds two more times. [148 (158) stitches]

Next Round: Knit.

Increase Round: *K1, m1L, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches increased)

Next Round: Knit.

Repeat last two rounds. [164 (174) stitches]

Repeat Increase Round. [172 (182) stitches]

Hem the Collar

*With the right side facing you, use a double pointed needle to pick up the first stitch of the purl round (the marked stitch) 12 rows below. Holding the double point and left needle parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front  (double pointed) needle together with 1 stitch from the back (circular) needle. Repeat from * to end of round.

Finish

Bind off in stockinette.

Weave in your ends.

Block heavily to even out any tension inconsistencies and to get the beautiful drape of linen.