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Everyday Linen Raglan

 everyday-linen-raglan-2-600-3   

Growing up as the sister of two older brothers, to say I was a tomboy is a bit of an understatement. I was one of the boys! While my girlfriends were playing softball, I insisted on being in the all-boys baseball league. My 'Sunday's Best' consisted of hand-me-down golf shirts, khaki pants and bucks. I blindly and adoringly echoed my brothers' every move. If they wouldn't wear it (or do it or like it), well then, neither would I.

 

everyday-linen-raglan-2-600-2So for those who knew me back then, my current love for linen dresses and fancy clutches, cashmere wraps and backless sweaters, floral hankies and pretty much all things fem is something of a shock. Yet while my style has drastically shifted, those tomboy roots do run deep. Put me in jeans and a t-shirt and I am one happy camper. Put me in jeans and a linen shirt, and I'm in heaven!

everyday-linen-raglan-2-600-4

This lightweight, 3/4-sleeve raglan top harkens back to sunny days at the ball park, but with the natural elegance and drape of 100% linen. It's the best of both worlds, classic and casual for everyday, but not without a pinch of feminine subtlety.

everyday-linen-raglan-2-600-5

Knit up in Euroflax's beautiful sportweight linen, this favorite yarn of mine pairs a rugged durability with a chic grace, a duality I have come to greatly appreciate!

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Materials

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Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, blocked

Sizes

Small/Medium (Medium/Large)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (40) inches
  • Finished Hip Circumference: 31 (34) inches
  • Bottom Hem to Underarm: 12 1/2 (13 3/4) inches
  • Cuff to Underarm: 12 inches

Pattern

Sleeves

NOTE: If you are long-limbed, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

Using the double pointed needles, cast on 57 (60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Purl 8 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [59 (62) stitches]

**Knit 7 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [61 (64) stitches]

Repeat from ** 10 more times. [81 (84)  stitches]

Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and put aside.

Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Body

With the 24 inch circular needle, use the provisional cast on method to cast on 188 (208) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit 16 rounds.

Hem the Bottom

Use the extra circular needle to pick up the cast on stitches. Once the cast on stitches are on the new needle, fold the fabric towards you so the knit sides are facing each other and the purl side of the hem is on the outside (the right side of the sweater should also be facing you). Holding the two left needles parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front needle together with 1 stitch from the back needle. Repeat to end of round. [188 (208) stitches]

Shape the Back Tail

NOTE: The back of the sweater has a slight dip formed by using Short Rows (working back and forth, turning the work part way through each round instead of continuing to the end of the needle). This portion of the pattern is optional. If you would like your sweater to be even across the bottom, skip ahead to the Body section below. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!

Row 1 (right side): K94 (104), place marker, k71 (81), wrap and turn.

Row 2 (wrong side):  P48 (58), wrap and turn.

Row 3: K48 (58), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: P50 (60), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Row 5: K52 (62), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 6: P54 (64), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this fashion, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the picked-up wrap, working one more stitch and then wrapping and turning. End with the wrong side row that starts with purling 90 (100).

Next Row (rs): K92 (102), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap.

Now continuing to work in the round again.

Next Round: Knit to 1 stitch past the next marker, pick up wrap on next stitch (this time knitting the wrap and stitch together through back loop), knit to end of round.

Continue  Body

NOTE: If you are long waisted, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

**Knit 10 (11) rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to marker, m1R, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to end of round, m1R. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat from ** 7 more times. [220 (240) stitches]

Knit 10 (11) rounds (or number required to reach desired length from bottom hem to underarm).

Yoke

Attaching the Sleeves

Knit to first marker, slip marker, knit across 81 (84) sleeve stitches, place marker, knit to end of round, place marker, knit across 81 (84) stitches of the second sleeve. [81 (84) stitches for each sleeve, 110 (120) stitches for front and back. 382 (408) total stitches]

Shape the Raglan

Decrease Round: *P1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. (8 stitches decreased)

Next Round: *P1, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last two rounds 12 (13) more times. [55 (56) stitches for each sleeve, 84 (92) stitches for front and back; 278 (296) total stitches]

Shape the V

NOTES:

  • Make one stitch purl-wise (m1 purl-wise): Pick up the strand between the last and next stitch from the back and purl through the front loop.
  • Slipped stitches are done purl-wise.

ERRATA:

  • December 29, 2013: For size Medium/Large, the Front stitches knit on either side of the "V" were corrected to coordinate with stitch counts.

Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [53 (54) stitches for each sleeve, 82 (90) stitches for back, 80 (88) stitches for front; 268 (286) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k37 (41), slip 1 (sl1), p2, sl1, k37 (41), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 2: P1, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, m1 purl-wise (see note above), p2, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [51 (52) stitches for each sleeve, 80 (88) stitches for back, 78 (86) stitches for front; 260 (278) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k35 (39), sl1, p4, sl1, k35 (39), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 3: P1, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p4, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [49 (50) stitches for each sleeve, 78 (86) stitches for back, 76 (84) stitches for front; 252 (270)  total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k33 (37), sl1, p6, sl1, k33 (37), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 4: P1, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p6, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [47 (48) stitches for each sleeve, 76 (84) stitches for back, 74 (82) stitches for front; 244 (262) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k31 (35), sl1, p8, sl1, k31 (35), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 5: P1, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p8, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [45 (46) stitches for each sleeve, 74 (82) stitches for back, 72 (80) stitches for front; 236 (254) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k29 (33), sl1, p10, sl1, k29 (33), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 6: P1, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p10, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [43 (44) stitches for each sleeve, 72 (80) stitches for back, 70 (78) stitches for front; 228, (246) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k27 (31), sl1, p12, sl1, k27 (31), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 7: P1, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p12, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [41 (42) stitches for each sleeve, 70 (78) stitches for back, 68 (76) stitches for front; 220 (238) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k25 (29), sl1, p14, sl1, k25 (29), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 8: P1, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p14, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [39 (40) stitches for each sleeve, 68 (76) stitches for back, 66 (74) stitches for front; 212 (230) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k23 (27), sl1, p16, sl1, k23 (27), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 9: P1, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p16, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [37 (38) stitches for each sleeve, 66 (74) stitches for back, 64 (72) stitches for front; 204 (222) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k21 (25), sl1, p18, sl1, k21 (25), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 10: P1, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p18, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [35 (36) stitches for each sleeve, 64 (72) stitches for back, 62 (70) stitches for front; 196 (214) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k19 (23), sl1, p20, sl1, k19 (23), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 11: P1, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p20, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [33 (34) stitches for each sleeve, 62 (70) stitches for back, 60 (68) stitches for front; 188 (206) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k17 (21), sl1, p22, sl1, k17 (21), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 12: P1, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p22, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [31 (32) stitches for each sleeve, 60 (68) stitches for back, 58 (66) stitches for front; 180 (198) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k15 (19), sl1, p24, sl1, k15 (19), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 13: P1, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p24, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [29 (30) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (66) stitches for back, 56 (64) stitches for front; 172 (190) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k13 (17), sl1, p26 , sl1, k13 (17), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Medium/Large Size Only

Decrease Round 14: P1, k2tog, k14, ssk, m1 purl-wise, p26, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14, ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [28 stitches for each sleeve, 64 stitches for back, 62 stitches for front; 182 stitches]

Next Round: P1, k14, sl1, p28, sl1, k14, p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Both Sizes

[29 (28) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (64) stitches for back, 56 (62) stitches for front; 172 (182) total stitches]

Collar

Next Round: Purl, placing a removable stitch marker on the first stitch of the round.

Next Round: Knit.

Decrease Round: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)

Repeat last two rounds two more times. [148 (158) stitches]

Next Round: Knit.

Increase Round: *K1, m1L, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches increased)

Next Round: Knit.

Repeat last two rounds. [164 (174) stitches]

Repeat Increase Round. [172 (182) stitches]

Hem the Collar

*With the right side facing you, use a double pointed needle to pick up the first stitch of the purl round (the marked stitch) 12 rows below. Holding the double point and left needle parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front  (double pointed) needle together with 1 stitch from the back (circular) needle. Repeat from * to end of round.

Finish

Bind off in stockinette.

Weave in your ends.

Block heavily to even out any tension inconsistencies and to get the beautiful drape of linen.

Click here to add a comment

84 Responses to Everyday Linen Raglan


  1. Mary Ann says:

    Laura, how much design ease did you build into this pattern? I'm going to need to modify it, and it would be useful to know what percentage to add to my body measurements for wearing ease.

    Thanks. I'm eager to get started!

  2. purl bee says:

    Hi Mary Ann,
    Great question. The dimensions above are the measurements of the finished product. It is designed to have a positive ease of around 2 inches. It is meant to fit, but not tightly. Our dress form has a 34-inch bust and is wearing the smaller size which has a 36-inch circumference. Does this help? Hope you enjoy the pattern. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
    Laura

  3. Monica says:

    I just finished "shaping the raglan" and should have 82 stitches on the front and back but instead have 110. Was I to decrease on the body portion as well as the sleeve portion? My sleeve stitches seemed to work out alright since they are 55 stitches. Have I missed something obvious?

  4. Polly Brown says:

    Hi Laura,

    I am really excited about starting this pullover! One question though Do the sleeves have a hem like the bottom edge of the sweater. It looks like it from some of the pictures, but I don't see a provisional cast on for them. What did you do?

    Thanks,

    Polly

  5. purl bee says:

    Hi Monica.
    Oh dear. Yes, you were to decrease on the fronts and backs as well as on the sleeves. You decrease on either side of each of the stitch markers.

    This should fix that pesky stitch count straight away.
    Let me know if you have any other questions.
    Laura

  6. Emily says:

    Hi Laura,
    I've got through most of this sweater fine, but I'm having some trouble with the "shaping the V" section. I'm getting gaps on either side of the V, particularly the right hand side. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!
    Emily

  7. purl bee says:

    Hi Polly,
    The sleeve do not have a hem like the bottom, They are simply worked in reverse stockinette stitch for a few rows.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  8. purl bee says:

    Hi Emily.
    I am not sure where the holes are coming from. Are you familiar with ssk and k2tog? When you ssk do you slip your stitches knitwise or purlwise. I tend do slip the first one knitwise and the second purlwise, but both knitwise is also great for a more seamless look.
    Laura

  9. Andrea says:

    July 31,2013

    I've started to knit this with Madelinetosh Pashmina. I am in love with the pattern so far. But for future patterns it would be nice if we knew about how much yarn you had left. For the super tall and long limbed girls its nice to know if we need to buy an extra skein or if we will have enough yarn. For every pattern I've used from the site I've bought an extra skein to add 2-3" on the arms and typically around 4" to the bodice and not had to use it all that often.

    just a suggestion, but great pattern by the way. Cant wait for the fall so I can wear it.

  10. purl bee says:

    Andrea,
    Wonderful suggestion. I'll let our team here on the Purl Bee know your thoughts!
    Laura

  11. Jenna Kirkum says:

    In Shape the V section, each row is missing "slip marker, P1" after the P1 in the pattern directions after the initial v portion. In the * portion of each row instruction: "*p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round." . Am I missing something or is the direction correct as written?

  12. purl bee says:

    Hi Jenna,
    Thank you for writing in. I have corrected the pattern!

    There was a "p1, slip marker," missing before the * in every other round of instructions under Shaping the V.

    I really appreciate you taking the time to write in. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

    Best.
    Laura

  13. Ferah says:

    Hi Laura,

    I've knitted the sleeves&the body,yet when I try to attach the sleeves to the body there seem to be gaping holes on both sides of the armpit. Is there a way to avoid that? Thanks in advance,

    Regards,Ferah

  14. purl bee says:

    Hello Ferah,
    Great question. I had the same holes. I closed these holes at the end when I wove in my ends.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  15. Alanna says:

    Hi there,

    I love this pattern! I'm so excited to be almost done just in time for fall.

    I'm at the 'shape the V section' and I have a question about the 'make 1 purl wise'. The 'slip one purl wise' leaves a long bar that could be picked up in making that sitch, is that the intention or should one use the regular bar between stitches to 'make 1 purl wise'?

    Thank you so much!
    Alanna

  16. purl bee says:

    Hi Alanna,
    I'm so glad you like the pattern!
    I used the regular bar between stitches.
    Thanks.
    Laura

  17. Jennie says:

    Hi, I knitted this in linen and loved it! It was my first "no sew" knitted sweater. I was wondering if I could knit it as written in your Purl Soho line weight yarn or would I need to modify it since the yarn is fingerling weight instead of sport?

    Thanks,
    Jennie

  18. purl bee says:

    Hi Jennie.
    I am thrilled to hear you enjoyed this pattern. I think the Line Weight is going to be a tad on the thin side. Line Weight at 6 stitches to the inch would be a very loose looking/feeling fabric. How about…
    Blue Sky's Sport Weigh in Solidst: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/714-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Solids
    or in Melange: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1105-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Melanges
    Blue Sky's Alpaca Silk: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/722-Blue-Sky-Alpaca-Silk
    Madeline Tosh Light: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7957-Madelinetosh-Tosh-Merino-Light
    Anzula Cricket: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8710-Anzula-Cricket

    Let me know if you have any questions on these yarns.
    Laura

  19. Patricia says:

    Hi there,

    I am also in agreement that the stitch count for the "V" shaping is off. Your pattern only accounts for 90 stitches, not the 92 that you should be left with. Either the knitter should knit an extra decrease tow to end up with the 90 stitches or perhaps the instructions for the "V" could be corrected.
    Meanwhile, I shall knit on….

  20. purl bee says:

    Patricia,
    THANK YOU! Yes the number of Front stitches knit on either side of the "V" was off by one stitch (for the Medium/Large) size. The pattern has been corrected!
    Thank you again for writing in.
    Laura

  21. Karen says:

    Could you do this same pattern in sport wieght cotton?

  22. purl bee says:

    Hi Karen,
    Great question! And the answer is YES! The fabric will have a different feel and weight of course, but it sounds lovely. Just be sure to find the appropriate needles for your yarn to get the gauge given above. AND also let us know how it goes!
    Laura

  23. Tiffany says:

    I skipped the short rows for the tail and went ahead to the steps for the body. After knitting the first 10(11) rows, the directions are to start an increase row. Where it states knit to marler, should this be at stich 94 as mentioned in the first step as if knitting the tail?

  24. purl bee says:

    Hi Tiffany.
    Yes. The stitch marker should be after the 94th stitch if you are making the smaller size. Be sure to place the marker before doing the increase round, otherwise the stitch marker will be in the wrong place.
    Thanks for asking Tiffany. I will try to clarify this in the pattern.
    Laura

  25. Absolutely gorgeous – the color, the style, the choice of fiber, everything!!

  26. Alison says:

    Would love to try this on a knitting machine – do you have any schematics to help me please?? Many thanks IA!

  27. purl bee says:

    Hi Alison-

    None of us have experience with knitting machines so I'm not sure how much help we can be! But the finished dimensions are listed at the top of the pattern if that helps at all.

    Thanks for writing in!

    Molly

  28. Suzi says:

    Hi,

    Please clarify, sl 1 purlwise in the v- shaping. Is this wyif or wyib?
    Thanks.

  29. purl bee says:

    Hi Suzi,
    The slip 1 purlwise in the V-shaping is with the yarn in back, wyib.
    Thanks for writing in.
    Laura

  30. Cathy says:

    Do you have modifications for a larger size? My mother has larger bust and hip measurements. Thanks!

    • Laura from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Cathy.
      Thank you for writing in and for your interest in the pattern.
      Unfortunately, right now, we do not have any modifications in the work for larger sizes, however it is very much on our radar and we’re hoping to revisit this pattern soon!
      Please stay tuned. And thank you again for your interest.
      Best,
      Laura

  31. gee says:

    The sweater is lovely! But i was wondering if it would be possible for you to post an option omitting the v?

    • Laura from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Gee.
      Thank you for your interest in this sweater. I appreciate your request. We will definitely see if we can work it into your schedule. Right now, unfortunately we do not have this pattern worked out without the V.

      But… essentially… to omit the V, you simply work evenly across the front ignoring the instructions for making the V. Just be sure to pay attention to the raglan shaping that occurs at the 4 different points, 2 at each sleeve.

      Simple as that!
      Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
      Laura

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