Sporty Striped Peds

Ped socks are just the thing for the short attention span of summertime lolly gagging! Peds take the wonders of sock knitting and concentrate them down into one quick little project. Right away you're into the heel flap, and before you know it, the heel and gusset follow.

These are based on my Pom Pom Peds, which, over the past four (gasp!) years, have become a go-to Purl Bee pattern. But instead of bouncy little pom poms at the ankle, these Sporty Striped Peds get their visual zing from six delicate ringlets of pretty color.

I used one of my all time favorite yarns, Koigu Premium Merino. It knits up into a wonderfully soft and machine washable pair of socks. And no need to buy entire skeins of the stripe colors, thanks to Koigu's KPM Needlepoint Yarn, mini nuggets of just eleven yards each!


The Materials

To buy all of this yarn together, just click here for our Sporty Striped Peds Kit! (Needles are not included.)


The Pattern


8 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Finished Size

Fit most women - 7 1/2 inches in circumference and adjustable length

Begin - The Cuff

With the Main Yarn, cast on 60 stitches to three double pointed needles.

Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 five more times.

Knit 3 rounds.

The Heel Flap

Knit 15 stitches and turn the work so the purl side of the fabric is facing you.

Purl 30 stitches. (The 30 stitches that you just purled are the beginning of the heel flap. For this section, you will be working back and forth on just these 30 stitches.)

Arrange the stitches so that the 30 heel flap stitches are on one needle. Put the remaining stitches on hold on two needles (15 stitches each).

(Again, work the following rows back and forth, turning the work between each row.)

Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of 30 stitches.

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of 30 stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times.

Turning the Heel

Still just working the heel flap stitches:

Row 1 (right side): K17, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and there are 19 stitches on the left needle and 10 stitches on the right needle. 

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn the work. (18 stitches on the left needle and 10 stitches on the right needle)

Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked and 18 stitches remain on the needle.

The Gusset

Knit across the 18 heel stitches.

With the same needle (now called "needle #1"), pick up 17 stitches along the heel flap. (35 stitches)

With a new needle (needle #2), knit across the 30 stitches that have been on hold.

With a new needle (needle #3), pick up 17 stitches along the other side of the heel flap.

Still with needle #3, knit 9 stitches from needle #1. 

Now there are 26 stitches on needle #1, 30 stitches on needle #2, and 26 stitches on needle #3. Needle #1 is the beginning of the round (at the middle of the heel).

Round 1: Needle #1 - knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 - knit all the stitches. Needle #3 - k1, ssk, knit to end.

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 60 total stitches remain.

The Foot

Knit 8 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn A (#2220), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn B (#1131), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn C (#2381), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn D (#1203), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn E (#2100), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.

With Contrast Yarn F (#2335), knit 1 round.

With the Main Yarn, knit evenly until the piece measures 2 inches less than the desired final length, measuring from the back edge of the heel.

Here's a guideline for final sock lengths:

   US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches

   US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches

   US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches

   US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches

For example, these socks are for a size 7 1/2 shoe, so I knit the foot until it measures 7 1/2 inches (9 1/2 inches minus 2 inches).

The Toe

Round 1: Needle #1 - knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 - K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #3 - k1, ssk, knit to end.

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 32 total stitches remain.

Then, repeat Round 1 until 12 total stitches remain.

With Needle #3, knit the 3 stitches from Needle #1 so that there are 6 stitches on each of two needles.

Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the toe.

Weave in all the ends, then get started on your second sock!

Click here to add a comment

26 Responses to Sporty Striped Peds

  1. maia says:

    these are absolutely adorable, and look like i can handle them even as a beginner sockstress. THANK YOU!

  2. Ann says:

    Love these! Could I make them into regular socks by increasing initial ribbing to maybe four inches? Thank you.

  3. DavidA says:

    Thank you for this pattern. These ped socks will make excellent gifts!

  4. Martha says:

    I love these socks and the new variation but how do you make the join with new colours look neat. I am using magic loop and one side of the sock looks very messy with the color introductions. Thanks

  5. purl bee says:

    Hi Ann,

    Sure, sounds like a great plan! Let us know how they turn out!


  6. purl bee says:

    Hi Martha,

    Yes, where the colors join does look a bit messy as you're knitting, but when you weave in the ends they clean up very well! Just make sure you cross the ends so that the left side tail goes to the right and the right side tail goes to the left.

    Also, I hope you're not cutting the Main Yarn between stripes; you can just carry it up along the inside!

    Let me know if you need any more help and thanks for your question!


  7. Ursula says:

    Thanks for this post. I made my first sock and used DPN for the first time ! Sadly, they turned out way to big but, I am going to try again :)

  8. Maria says:

    What does it mean when You say pick up 17 stiches along the heel flap?

  9. purl bee says:

    Hi Maria,

    If you have never encountered “picking up stitches” before, then you may find this Knitty tutorial very helpful: . When you pick up stitches in this case, make sure the right side (or outside) of the sock is facing you and that you pick up from right to left.

    I hope this gets you on the right path. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions! A sock gusset is the first time I ever picked up stitches too!


  10. Marianne says:

    Hi there,

    These are great and I am contemplating making a few of them for Christmas gifts this year! I have a question though. I was just looking at another project on your site that uses Tosh Merino Light. I would love to be able to use that yarn for both projects… Do you think that yarn would work for these socks? Thanks so much.

  11. purl bee says:

    Hi Mairanne-

    The Madeline Tosh Light would work for this, just make sure to do a gauge swatch before hand to get the right needle size.

    Thanks for your question!


  12. Erin says:

    hello! these are my first socks, and I really appreciate your instructions and especially the pictures! its going well, but I've just reached the part where you knit the heel flap. This is I'm sure a silly question but I want to be sure:

    You say to repeat rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times. is that a total of 15, or fifteen more each of rows 1 and 2 equaling 30 rows in total?

    thank you for clarifying!

  13. purl bee says:

    Hi Erin,

    It's fifteen more Rows 1 and 2 equaling 30 rows (plus the original Row 1 and Row 2 = 32)!

    Thanks for asking and good luck with the rest of your socks!


  14. Josephine says:

    I have a question about changing from the main color to the contrast color yarn. How much of a tail should I leave at the start of the contrast color and at the end of the contrast color? Is there a preferred technique for changing to a different colored yarn? I've seen tutorials who double up the contrast color for 3 or 4 stitches to make sure there's enough tension at the beginning of the row, but not sure if that would look “off” if the rest of the stitches

  15. purl bee says:

    Hi Josephine,

    I leave about a 6-inch tail at both the beginning and end of the contrast color. And while there are definitely other methods out there, I always just start knitting with the new color without doubling up the first few stitches. This leaves a hole and some loose stitches, both of which I fix up at the end when I weave in the ends. To change colors this way, you just have to be comfortable with some temporary messiness!

    I hope this helps and thank you for asking!

  16. Martha says:

    Sorry for the repetitive post…I seem to knit these socks often and I still struggle to get the stripes even on one side. Is there any chance you could post a video to show us how to weave in the ends to make the stripes look as even and as beautiful as yours (which I did see in person in store!). Thanks.

  17. purl bee says:

    Hi again Martha,

    I wish we had a video answer to this question, but until then I would add that, basically, the neatness of this area depends on getting all of your stitches to an even tension. This can be a bit challenging when you're cutting and carrying yarns. First, try using the tip of your knitting needle to tighten up the handful of colored stripe stitches that tend to loosen at the beginning and end of the round. And as you're knitting, pay a lot of attention to the tension of the first and last main color stitches as you change to and from the stripe color.

    In addition, make sure you weave the right side tail across the seam into the left side stripe and vice versa.

    Otherwise, keep in mind that, as you probably saw in the store, there is an inevitable jog at the seam, so don't be too disappointed if your stripes aren't perfect!

    Thank you for asking and caring! I hope this helps!


  18. Danielle says:

    what size yarn does the yarn used work out at it? Is it sock yarn or double knit etc?

  19. purl bee says:

    Hi Danielle-

    All the yarn information can be found in the materials section by clicking on the yarns and the gauge can be found under the "gauge" headline of the pattern.

    Thank you for your questions!


  20. Shannon says:

    Hi, I was wondering if you think Crazy Zauberball would work with this pattern. Will it be thick enough yarn?

  21. purl bee says:

    Hi Shannon-

    We are not familiar with that yarn but a quick Google search makes me think it should be fine. The important thing is that you get the same gauge, 8-stitches per inch.

    Thank you for your question!


  22. Suzanna says:

    Hi, this is my first pair of socks and I was wondering what you mean when you say to turn the fabric so the purl part is facing you. I'm not entirely sure what you mean when you say that and how exactly to do that. It'd be great if you could help. Thanks.

  23. purl bee says:

    Hi Suzanna,

    This means that instead the outside (or "right side") of the sock facing you as you work, you'll turn the whole piece around so the inside (or "wrong side") of the sock is facing you. Our Pom Pom Peds pattern has a photo of this step. It's the first photo in the Heel Flap section:

    I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!


  24. Becky says:

    I need some help with the toe. When you are at 32 stitches remain how many stitches are on needle 1, needle 2 & needle 3? Also as you continue on toe and have 12 stitches remaining how many stitches should be on each of your needles?

    I am a newbie with socks and have found this pattern very helpful. I have found it very helpful that the pattern provides stitch counts to let you know you are following the pattern accurately. The photos are great too. Love Purlbee!!!

  25. purl bee says:

    Hi Becky,

    When you start the toe you should have 15 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 30 stitches on needle #2. (60 stitches total)

    Then when you've decreased down to 32 total stitches, you should have 8 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 16 stitches on needle #2.

    And when you're down to 12 stitches, you should have 3 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 6 stitches on needle #2.

    I hope this helps! Please let me know if you run into any problems and thanks for asking!


  26. Erica says:

    These are the best sock instruction I have stumbled across ever! I have been trying to find a sock pattern that makes sense to me (as a new knitter) and others are not as clear and the pictures you provided made it really simple to follow! Great post!!!

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