As soon as the leaves began to change color, I started getting my daughter all gussied up in fall finery. She had quite a collection of wool pants, knee high socks, and even a whole drawer full of hand knit sweaters. What she didn’t have, however, was a jacket! When I set about making one, I knew Purl Soho had the perfect fabric, Dorr Mill Wool Yardage!

This wool has a lovely drape and a soft hand, plus it’s nice and warm. I wanted the lining to be just as special, and so I went right to Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn Seasonals. The Darcie print in green is so subtle and pretty with that signature silky Liberty feel.

Since I’m not an expert garment seamstress,  I kept the shape of the jacket simple and chic, no collar or fussy sleeve seams allowed! In the end this little kimono style jacket is a perfect addition to Guadalupe’s fall wardrobe, warm, cute, and easy to get on and off with just one big sew-on snap. As far as I can tell, Lupe likes it a lot too… at least, she likes chewing on it!

Materials

To make one 0-6 month sized jacket:

Before you start you will need to felt the wool by washing it in hot, rinsing it in cold, drying it for 20 minutes, and then pressing it flat.

Pattern

Cutting

Using the free template, cut out the following pieces:

From the outer fabric (the felted wool):

  • One back piece. Cut this piece by folding the fabric and placing the template edge along the fold. Cut around the template. Your cut piece will have two sleeves.
  • Two front pieces.

From the lining (the Tana Lawn) :

  • One back piece, cut in the same manner as for the wool back piece.
  • Two front pieces. Cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side facing up so that the two cut pieces will face in opposite directions.

Sewing the Outside and Lining

Pin the front pieces to the back piece of the wool along the top of the sleeves, the bottom of the sleeves, and the sides.

Sew the pieces together along the pinned sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

Pin the front pieces to the back piece of the lining along the top of the sleeves, the bottom of the sleeves, and the sides.

Make a mark 1 1/2-inches from the outer edges of the sleeves at both the top and bottom pinned sides of the sleeves.

Sew the pieces together along the pinned sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. when you get to the markings change the seam allowance to be 1/4-inch as illustrated above.

Cut notches three out of the seam allowance of the underarm curve.

Turn the lining right sides out and press it flat.

Attaching the Outside and Lining

Slide the lining inside the outer section, right sides together. Pin the lining to the wool all along the front openings, bottom, and neck.

Make sure to line up the shoulder seams of both the lining and wool sections. You might have to tear out a few stitches along both sides of the lining seams to get it to fit perfectly. Don't worry about this- you're about to sew over this section again so it will be fine in the end.

Make sure the sleeve sections of the lining are tucked into the sleeves of the outer jacket so you won't sew over them.

Starting at in the middle of the bottom back sew all around this pinned area with a 1/2-inch seam allowance leaving a 3-inch gap between the beginning and end of the seam.

Cut notches into the underarm curves of the wool and trim all the corners of the seam allowance.

Turn the piece right sides out through the unsewn gap.

The lining section of the sleeves will still not be sewn to the wool. Pull them out of the wool sleeves.

Sewing the Sleeves

Cut 1 1/2-inches off of each of the sleeves from the wool section only.

Pull the sleeve sections of the lining through the wool sections as shown above.

Fold the lining down once so that its raw edge meets the raw edge of the wool.

Then fold the lining over once again to hide the raw edges. Pin the lining in place making sure the top and bottom seams of the lining and wool are lined up with one another.

Pin both of the sleeves in this manner and then pin the 3-inch gap at the back of the jacket closed.

Stitch the lining to the wool using a slip stitch along the edge of the lining fold at the sleeves.

Stitch the gap closed in the same manner.

Finishing Up

At the back of the neck, between the shoulder seams, pin the outside to the lining. Edge stitch the two sides together along this section.

Close the jacket and mark where you would like to place your snap, at the top of the overlap.

Sew on the snap using the embroidery thread and you're all done!