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Bobble Sheep Pillow

I guess it isn't surprising that a knitter has an affinity for sheep. Obviously, some sort of kinship must exist with the animal whose wool provides daily enjoyment (and employment!). So as predictable as it may be, I will say it anyway... I love sheep. They are a funny creature with a neurotic voice and a body perfect for graphic adaptation.

I love their bulbous bellies and knobbly knees, their googly eyes and pointy ears. I love how they amble about in groups, looking like earth-bound clouds. And it goes without saying, but I love what they gift us... don't worry,I'm not about to type "mutton." I mean, of course, their wool!

A dear friend pointed out that it may be a bit snake-eating-its-own-tail, but anyway, I had to make one... I had to make a sheep, made out of sheep.

With the softest, loftiest, creamiest yarn I could find and the most dramatic, nobbiest  texture I could create, I knit up this squishable, squeezable, nursery-rhyme version of every knitter's best pal. Bursting with bobbles, this sheep practically implores you to cuddle.

Incredibly soft to the touch, Purl Soho's Super Soft Merino could not have been more appropriate for this project, right down to its color name, Heirloom White. Your own Bobble Sheep Pillow is sure to be loved by many generations to come!

Materials

All the yarn you'll need to make your own Bobble Sheep is in one place! Click right here for the Yarn to Complete the Bobble Sheep Pillow kit (needles and stuffing are not included).

Gauge

  • 3 stitches = 1 inch in garter stitch using Super Soft Merino on US #11 needles
  • 7 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch using Sport Weight Alpaca on US #3 needles

Size

  • 19 inches from chest to tail
  • 14 inches from top of back to bottom of belly

Notes

There are several different ways to make a bobble, this is a 5-stitch garter bobble. For a full-photo tutorial on how to make this particular bobble, please click here.

Make Bobble (MB): Knit into the next stitch, leaving it on the left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] two times. Turn work (wrong side is facing you), k5, turn work (right side is facing you), k2tog and return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch, returning it to the right needle.

Slip 1, k2tog, psso (or sk2p): This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.

Knit 3 together (or k3tog): This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit. Knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch.

Pattern

Body

Begin at the Belly

With the larger double pointed needles and the Main Yarn, use the Provisional Cast On method to cast on 46 stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round being careful not to twist stitches.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.

Round 3: Knit.

Round 4: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times.

Increasing to Shape the Body

NOTE: Change to circular needles when necessary.

(Increasing every round) 

Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

Round 6: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three more times. (78 stitches)

(Increasing every other round)

Round 7: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.

Round 8: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

Round 9: [K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2] two times.

Round 10: Repeat Round 8.

Round 11: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.

Round 12: Repeat Round 8.

Round 13: [K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2] two times.

Round 14: Repeat Round 8. (94 stitches)

Continue Working Evenly

Round 15: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.

Round 16: [Purl to next marker, sm, k2] two times.

Round 17: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.

Round 18: Repeat Round 16.

Repeat Rounds 15-18 two more times.

Decreasing for the Neck and Tail

NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

Round 19: K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p (see Pattern Notes above), sm, k2, k3tog (see Pattern Notes above), **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, sm, k2. (90 stitches, 4 stitch decrease at head)

Round 20: K2tog, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. (6 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 4 at head)

Round 21: K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, k1, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2. (80 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head)

Round 22: Repeat Round 20. (74 stitches)

Round 23: *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2.

Round 24: [K2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 2 at head)

Round 25: K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2.

Round 26: Repeat Round 24. (66 stitches)

Round 27: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. (64 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail)

Round 28: Repeat Round 24. (60 stitches)

Round 29: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. (58 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail)

Round 30: Repeat Round 24. (54 stitches)

Round 31: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. (52 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail)

Round 32: Repeat Round 24. (48 stitches)

Round 33: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. (46 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail)

Remove beginning of round marker and slip the last stitch of the last round onto the left needle.

Cut yarn, leaving an approximately 35-inch tail.

Divide the stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of the circular needle or arranging them onto two double pointed needles.

Holding the needles parallel to each other, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Bobble Sheep's back.

Weave in the ends.

NOTE: You will notice in the pictures that I next stuffed the Sheep and used the Kitchener Stitch once again to graft together the two sides of the Belly. It would be easier, however, to make the Face, the Ears and the Tail before stuffing the Sheep and grafting its Belly.

Head and Ears

Orienting the Sheep right side up and pretending for a moment that it is a clock, the Neck is the slanted area from about 9:30 to 11:30. Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 92 stitches around the stripe of stockinette stitches at the Neck.

To do this, start at the left bottom of the neck, pick up 3 stitches in each of the next fifteen stitches along the left side of the neck, two stitches along the top, rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the fifteen stitches along the right side. (To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch.)

Place a marker and join for working in the round.

Set-up Round: K16, place a different color marker, k30, place a different color marker, k30, place a different color marker, knit to end of round.

Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. (2 stitches decreased)

Round 2: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to two before third marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. (2 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five more times. (68 stitches)

Round 3: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. (4 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. (58 stitches)

Repeat Round 2 one more time. (56 stitches)

Round 4: K2tog, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. (6 stitches decreased)

Repeat Round 4, removing first and third marker. (44 stitches)

Round 5: K2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. (4 stitches decreased)

Repeat Round 5 two more times. (32 stitches)

Cut yarn leaving an approximately 15-inch tail.

Divide stitches in half, placing the first 16 stitches on the first double pointed needle and the second 16 stitches on the second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Head.

Weave in the ends.

Make the Right Ear

Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches for the Right Ear (the ear on the right, if looking at the sheep).

To do this, count four stitches down from the top, right side of the Sheep's Head (just above a bobble). Pick up 3 stitches in this stitch, and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches so far). Then rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the stitches directly across from those you just picked up, working back towards the starting point. (18 stitches)

**Place marker and join for working in the round.

Knit 4 rounds. At the end of the fourth round, remove marker and turn work. You will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.

Row 1 (inside of ear): Purl.

Row 2 (outside of ear): Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

Repeat Row 1.

Next Row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. (2 stitches decreased)

Next Row: Purl.

Repeat last two rows 6 more times. (4 stitches)

Next Row: Ssk, k2tog. (2 stitches)

Bind off purlwise.

Weave in your ends.

Make the Left Ear

Making the Left Ear (the ear on the left, if looking at the sheep) is very similar to making the Right Ear. The only difference is where you pick up the stitches.

Find the bobble across from the bobble you used as the starting point for the Right Ear. Pick up 3 stitches in each of the next three stitches above that bobble. Rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the next three stitches along the side of the Sheep's Head, working back towards the starting point. (18 stitches)

Repeat steps under Make the Right Ear starting at **.

Tail

With Main Yarn and the larger double pointed needles, pick up 12 stitches as shown above. Facing the Sheep's rear, locate the left side of the left stitch that is 5 stitches down from the end of the Sheep's back. Starting there, pick up 5 stitches up the left side, 2 stitches along the ridge of the Sheep's back and 5 stitches down the right side the Sheep's rear. (12 stitches)

Knit 4 rows.

Next Row: Bind off 1, knit to end. (1 stitch decreased)

Repeat last row 3 more times. (8 stitches)

Bind off.

Legs

NOTE: Before you make the Legs, stuff the Sheep loosely, then pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, divide them in half and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the Belly closed.

Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 26 stitches at one end of the Sheep's Belly, as shown above. To do this, pick up 3 stitches in each of the 4 stitches along one side of the Belly (12 stitches), pick up 1 stitch along the center of the Belly, rotate the sheep and pick up 12 stitches along the other side of the Belly and one last stitch along the center. (26 stitches)

Place marker and join for working in the round.

Round 1: [K12, p1] two times.

Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 4 inches from the pick up round.

Next Round: [K11, ssk] two times. (24 stitches)

Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.

Divide stitches in half, placing the first 12 stitches on one double pointed needle and the second 12 stitches on a second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Leg.

Make a second Leg at the other end of the Sheep's Belly.

Weave in your ends and you are all finished with your Bobble Sheep!

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100 Responses to Bobble Sheep Pillow


  1. Olivia says:

    I'm excited to report that I'm going to start making this adorable pillow. However, I'm concerned about stuffing it. Do you have any suggestions? Is there a specific size pillow that will fit in the body? If I'm to use fiber stuffing, how do you avoid the fibers from poking through to the outside? THANKS!!

  2. purl bee says:

    Hi Olivia,
    I filled the sheep with stuffing. If you are nervous though, you could whip up a little muslin pillow to insert into it. I don't believe the body of the sheep aligns with an standard size pillows at 19 x 14.

    The stuffing hasn't come through mine at all yet. If you are knitting at the right gauge, it should stay in there.
    Thanks.
    Laura

  3. Julie says:

    Wow, I love this. I crochet. I used to knit, I find knitting harder. I may try to do this, however, if you ever crochet one I would love to see it. Awesome project.
    Thank you!

  4. Tonia says:

    Hello!

    I am just starting on the sheep. I am not used to DPNs, and would like to know when you suggest moving over to the circular needles. I'm only on round 6, and already the stitches are taking up most of the needles.

    Thank you!

  5. purl bee says:

    Hi Tonia,
    Great questions.
    I switched to circular needles fairly early on. As soon as there are enough stitches to fit around the circular without stretching or staining the stitches, you can switch over from the DPNs.
    Hope you enjoy the project.
    Laura

  6. Alice says:

    Dear Laura,

    Thank you for this cute cute cute sheep pillow :)

    I am about to start it. Just a question : do I really need the double pointed needles to start the belly or can I knit with circular needles instead (considering that you suggested to switch to circular needles a few rounds after)?

    Thank you for sharing the pattern with us and keep up the good work :)

    Alice

  7. purl bee says:

    Hi Alice.
    Thank you for the kind words.

    The initial number of stitches is not enough to reach around the circular needles without stretching them out. Plus, you will need the double points to make the tail as well.

    Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
    Laura

  8. purl bee says:

    Hi Alice.
    Thank you for the kind words.

    The initial number of stitches is not enough to reach around the circular needles without stretching them out. Plus, you will need the double points to make the tail as well.

    Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
    Laura

  9. Julie E says:

    Have just stumbled across your fab sheep cushion. I think it's wonderful!

  10. Joan McNease says:

    On row 5, when you are making the bobble, knit 3, are you counting the knit stitch from the bobble plus 2 sts, or are you counting the knitted bobble as part of the bobble stitch and then knitting 3 sts in between each bobble?

  11. purl bee says:

    Hi Joan,
    There should be three stitches between each bobble.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  12. Denise Stanton says:

    This is just adorable and I would think any knitter would like to make one just for the novelty of making sheep out of sheep. My only hesitation is cost. Is there another wool that might work instead? I have so many projects that I've purchased yarn for recently and I just have a hard time spending so much on what is basically a pillow. An amazingly cute pillow but still, a pillow.

    Thank you

    Denise

  13. purl bee says:

    Hi Denise.
    Of course! You could do it out of a number of different yarns. The sheep might end up a big bigger or smaller depending on which you choose. Just be sure to swatch to make sure you are working on needles that will produce a nice fabric. Here are some suggestions.
    Cascade's Baby Alpaca: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2142-Cascade-Yarns-Baby-Alpaca-Chunky
    Swan's Island's Bulky: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8384-Swans-Island-Bulky
    Purl Soho's Worsted Twist: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9239-Purl-Soho-Worsted-Twist
    Cascade's Eco Cloud: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8065-Cascade-Yarns-Eco-Cloud
    Cascade's Superwash 128: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/6355-Cascade-Yarns-Superwash-128
    Let us know how it goes!
    Laura

  14. Christine says:

    Just a quick question regarding the yarn.

    As a grad student, I can't really afford solid wool or alpaca. Acrylic 4 life. However, I cannot find the yardage of this project. Approximately how many yards do I need for the wooly portion of the sheep? I'm sticking to size 11 needles and my gauge is usually spot on, or even a little tighter, so I'm not worried about falling out of sync with what you've written. An approximation will be just fine.

    Thank you in advance!

  15. purl bee says:

    Hi Christine.
    I used 4 skeins of our Super Soft Merino (87 yards a skein) for the 'wooly' part, equaling approximately 348 yards. Hope you enjoy the project!
    Laura

  16. Jen says:

    Just a quick question regarding the bobbles.

    I can make sense of your tutorial, and I can manage most of the steps, but I'm having trouble with the multiple yarn overs and the knitting into the same stitch. I end up with a tangled mess of too-tight stitches that aren't knittable. I think I'm doing something wrong. I kept the stitch on the left and continued to enter that stitch as if to knit. Any chance you could go into more depth on that first step with the increases? I tried a google search but it yielded nothing, so any tips would be wholly welcomed. Thank you!

  17. purl bee says:

    Hi Jen.
    I'm happy to try and explain it more…
    So you knit into the stitch where you'd like your bobble to be, *but do not let the stitch you're knitting into drop off the left needle, bring your yarn to the front, bring it over the right needle to the back, knit into the same stitch again, repeat from * once more, then you can let it drop off the left needle.

    I hope this helps clarify.
    Please write in again if you have any questions!
    Laura

  18. Carol says:

    I absolutely love this pillow. Thank you so much for the written instruction.
    In spite of my arthritic hands cringing at the making of bobbles, I'm going to make this because it is too irresistible. Thanks again….it's delightful!!!!!

  19. Desiree says:

    This sheep is wonderful. I purchased the supplies from you a few days back, and have made great progress. I'm getting ready to stuff the sheep. Would you be able to recommend any materials for stuffing the sheep? I have regular polyfil but thought that something made from such soft, lovely and natural yarn might deserve the softest filling possible! Thank you.

  20. purl bee says:

    Hello Desiree,
    I used Polyfil, but I love your instinct to treat your Sheep to the finest. I think that Bamboo would be lovely or cotton. Both will be a bit denser and heavier than the Poly but it will give your Sheep a sturdiness.
    http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/4575-Fairfield-Bamboo-Fiber-Fill
    http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2058-Quilters-Dream-Sweet-Dreams-Stuffing
    Laura

  21. Christine says:

    I have successfully gotten through the body of the pillow. Excellent pattern, by the way! Easy to read and chug along. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.

    I'm stuck on the face now though. I've picked up 23 stitches with two needles, but that extends the length of the 9:30/11:30 neck. There appears to be 4 "rows" of loops I can pick up from (two rounds making the "V" stitch-shape = 4 loops). Do I draw from these four, placed into quadrants for my dpns or is there something I'm missing. I guess I'm not entirely clear how to pick up all 92 of the stitches. Any point in the right direction should help. Thanks ahead of time <:

  22. purl bee says:

    Hi Christine.
    I am thrilled you like the pattern. I'm sorry the face has slowed you down. Let's see if we can figure this out. I believe I understand what you are referring to when you say 4 loops. I picked up 3 stitches from the outer legs of fifteen stitches along the two sides. (You can see the inner legs or halves of the stitches in the photo above.) And I picked up 2 stitches at the top and 2 stitches at the bottom. I am not sure if this clears things up. Please feel free to write back and if you leave your email address (which is only visible to the site's administrators) I can contact you for you to email me a photo of what you have.
    Thanks for writing in. I hope we can get this working for you.
    Laura

  23. Steff says:

    I wonder if the stuffing will come poking out with use? Was this lined? Any suggestion?

  24. Steff says:

    Row 5 reads:

    Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

    But when I begin my second repeat and I M1L I have 3 stitches. the next direction is to k2, but this gives me 5 stitches before bobble versus 3. Is this an error? Should second repeat have 5 stitches before MB? Or what am I doing wrong?

  25. purl bee says:

    Hello Steff.
    I understand why this seems off, but the pattern is correct. If you keep going with the pattern, you will see that there are two knit stitches at the half way point (those last k2 stitches inside the brackets) and at the very end of each round. These two stitches at each end of the sheep, carry up rear and chest sides of the sheep, kind of like seams. If you can, just work a few more rounds following the pattern. If you are still confused, please please please write back in and we will figure it out together.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  26. purl bee says:

    Hello Again Steff,
    I have not experienced any stuffing coming out of the sheep, but as a grown up, I do not handle the sheep as a child would. Perhaps lining it with some muslin wouldn't be a bad idea.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  27. Steff says:

    When you say make the sheep's right ear, and the sheep is facing me, does that mean the ear across from my left ear (mirror image)?

    I am finding the ears a bit of a challenge and am on my 4th try, so want to start with as much clarification as possible.

    I wonder if it would be possible to make a little tutorial video for making the ears and post it with the pattern. From my review of the notes on the Ravelry project page and these note pages, it seems that it is a particularly challenging part of the pattern.

    But it is so adorable!

  28. purl bee says:

    Hi Steff.
    If you are facing your sheep, the sheep's left ear is across from your right ear as if looking in a mirror, yes.

    I am glad you read the notes both here and on Ravelry. We really appreciate you sharing your experience with the pattern with us. We are currently putting together a list of videos we'd like to tackle next and this will definitely go on the list. Thank you again for the suggestion.

    Is there anything I can help clarify with the ears? Is there something in particular that is confusing you? Please write us back with any questions!
    Laura

  29. steff says:

    A couple of other follow up questions about knitting the ears:
    1. The photo under the heading for making the right ear looks to me like it is a photo of making the sheep's left ear. Is that possible? If not, could you help visually orient me in terms of that photo? I rely a lot on the photos to help me understand the written directions.
    2. When picking up the first 3 (sets of 3) stitches are you inserting the knitting needle under 1 or 2 stitch legs to pick up stitches?

    Thanks again for your patience with my questions.

  30. purl bee says:

    Steff.
    I'm so glad you wrote back.

    1.THANK YOU. You are correct, the pattern had the two ears mixed up. I have since fixed the pattern. The photos are definitely of making the sheep's left ear. Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!

    2. Just one stitch leg.

    Thank you again for this back and forth. I appreciate you taking the time.
    Best,
    Laura

  31. Steff says:

    The written directions for the sheep's ears seem to be mixed up….photo of left ear followed by directions which seem to be for the right ear, but not sure…and so on. I have been able to figure out how to get the ears correctly, but initially, when following the directions, was ending up with the purl sides facing out. Would you be able to double check the ear portion of the written pattern for accuracy? Thanks.

  32. purl bee says:

    Hello Again Steff.
    The pattern was initially written as if you are looking at the sheep. This seemed to cause some confusion. So we changed the pattern to be in reference to the sheep (the sheep's left ear vs the right ear, if looking at the sheep). This did not seem to help clarify, so we hare returned the pattern to its original state.

    The purl stitches should be on the inside of the ear. I am not sure how you managed to get them on the outside, except for perhaps turning your work and beginning working in rows at the wrong point and purling the outside rather than knitting it?

    I do appreciate you sharing your experience with the pattern. The face is definitely the most challenging part. I do hope you enjoy the remainder of the pattern.
    Thanks,
    Laura

  33. Steff says:

    Hi Laura,

    Thank you for your attentiveness and quick replies to my questions. My sheep is done and very cute!

  34. coco says:

    Hello Laura,

    I really enjoyed knitting this sheep. The pattern is very easy to follow along. But now I am starting on the head and I am stuck. I hope that you could offer some help please.

    I have picked up 92 stitches using 4 double pointed needles. Starting from the left bottom of the neck, going upward, pick up 45 stitches along the way, then pick up 2 stitches on the top. Then I rotate the sheep and pick up 45 stitches going down on the right side.

    So now I am facing the sheep's head. I have the working yarn on the lower bottom right neck on the sheep. This is where I am stuck.

    I am not sure which direction I should start knitting. Do I knit clock-wise starting from the bottom left of the neck? That doesn't seem right to me.

    Could you please help me?

    Thank you so much.

  35. purl bee says:

    Hi Coco.
    It sounds like you've done everything perfectly to this point.
    Now you are going to want to connect for working in the round and knit into that first stitch you picked up… In other words, you'll continue to work counter clockwise, just as you did when picking up (or working the sheep's body in the round or anything else in the round). I hope this makes sense and please do not hesitate to write back with any more questions.
    Laura

  36. Coco says:

    Thank you so much Laura. I think I am getting to understand it now.

    I am completely new to knitting. So II missed the properly way to do "join for working in the round".

    Is this how you join for working in the round? You basically swap the first stitch you picked up with the last stitch you picked up.

    After swapping, I knit into the first stitch and continue knitting counter clockwise.

    Thank you so much for your help, Laura.

  37. purl bee says:

    Hi Coco,
    This is a heck of a project for a new knitter. I'm impressed!
    I am not totally sure what you mean by "swap the first stitch you picked up with the last stitch you picked up".
    Have you seen our tutorial on double pointed needles? It might help clarify a few things.
    http://www.purlbee.com/knitting-tutorials-working-rnd/2008/7/25/double-pointed-needles.html
    Essentially, you just never turn your work. After you pick up that last stitch, you knit into the first stitch you picked up (usually placing a stitch marker between the two as a reminder for where the beginning/end of the round is).
    Please write me back if you're still stumped or have other questions!
    Laura

  38. Coco says:

    Thank you so much, Laura for your help.
    I finally understand. I got confused because for the head, I don't need to turn my work.
    I am now un-stuck and very happy working along on the head.

  39. Mary says:

    Hello,

    First I want to tell you who much I like this site. I have made several item with great success. My favorite so far is the snowflake scarf! But I am just in love with this lamb and I am trying to make this for a friend who is expecting. I am only on round 5 and stuck. The directions say

    Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

    I am at the point of 3 stitches before first marker and have made 5 bobbles. Am I supposed to knit the next 3 stitches or MB, k2 m1R, sm, k2?

    If I am not knitting the 3 stitches before the marker then I will have two bobbles next to each other and I don't have the correct count to end the round. Please help.

    Thank you again,

    Mary

  40. purl bee says:

    Hi Mary.
    Thank you for writing in and for your kind words about the Purl Bee! Now let's get you un-stumped!

    Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. (4 stitches increased)

    So, when you are three stitches before the first marker, you should MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2. At this point you will start from the beginning of the bracket again.

    I am not sure why the stitch count is off to complete the round. Have you double checked? And the two bobble so near each other is fine and good and what the pattern calls for.

    Please let me know if this round is still giving you trouble. We are always here for new or follow up questions.
    Laura

  41. Jennie says:

    I'm knitting this adorable pillow now and noticed that the tail in the pattern doesn't look like the tail in the photo (garter stitch?) Can you explain the difference?

    Thanks,
    Jennie

  42. purl bee says:

    Hi Jennie.
    They're the same! The tail in the how-to photos is the exact tail as in the beauty shots at the top of the post. I took the photo as I made the sheep. Oh and yes, the tail is done in garter stitch.
    Is there a particular part of the tail's construction that has you stumped? I'd love to help you with the pattern if you'd like.
    Thanks for writing in.
    Laura

  43. Marti says:

    I'm just finishing my sheep and am totally in love with him. Everyone who's seen him thinks he's adorable!

    My question is: I'd love to make a scarf using this same super soft merino with bobbles (perhaps two or three rows of them running lengthwise down the middle.
    Can you suggest a pattern I might adapt?

    This yarn is the softest I've ever seen. Can't get enough of it!

    Thanks!

  44. purl bee says:

    Hi Marti,
    I'm so happy to hear you love your sheep! And the yarn!
    You could work a simple garter stitch scarf and throw in bobbles where you see fit. I like your idea of them running lengthwise in a few rows, maybe they could be staggered like they are on the sheep, although, in straight lines could be cool too.

    I can't think of a pattern off the top of my head, but I will keep your request in mind!
    Have you looked on Ravelry? (It's an online network of people and designers and yarn manufacturers with loads of patterns to browse though, many of which are free.)
    Thanks for sharing your experience with this pattern.
    Laura

  45. Bridget says:

    Hi, I have a comment about the tail as well. Is the tail knitted back and forth and not in the round? Just want to make sure.

    Thanks so much and I love this sheep!
    Bridget

  46. purl bee says:

    Hey Bridget.
    The sheep's tail is in fact knit back and forth. Not in the round.
    Glad you like the sheep!
    Laura

  47. Kate says:

    Hi! I just wanted to start by saying that this pattern is ADORABLE. You are an incredibly talented designer.

    I'm just wondering, I'm trying to start an etsy shop (you know the story, trying to get through college and every penny helps!), but I am not the best designer. I would really like to knit up this pattern to sell the items to people who can't knit, putting a crediting link in obviously, but of course I don't want to do that without your permission!!! So I'm wondering if that would be alright with you? I won't if it isn't!
    Thanks,
    -Kate

  48. purl bee says:

    Hi Kate-

    Thank you for getting in touch about this and for your kind words about the pattern. All of our patterns are for home use only and cannot be made for sale so selling this in your etsy store won't be possible. But good luck with the store and thanks again for getting in touch!

    Molly

  49. Nancy Lake says:

    I have tried knitting and decided I love crocheting more. Any chance you could convert the sheep pattern to crochet?

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