More

The Sweatshirt Sweater

I grew up wearing a school uniform, which, for me, turns out to be a hard habit to kick. Some people seem to totally reject their childhoods of forced attire, opting for recklessly eclectic wardrobes. But I can't fight it; I'm a uniform kid, through and through.

I am sure you'll be relieved to read I am no longer sporting ill-fitting plaid jumpers, but there is rarely a day that goes by that I'm not in my own personal uniform. Lately, it's been dark-wash Levi's paired with some form of a baseball T or an athletic-gray sweatshirt. Naturally, I need handknit interpretations of these basics! I accomplished the first this past autumn when I stitched up the Everyday Linen Raglan. And now, I'm happy to add a thicker, cozier, woolier version to my collection... the Sweatshirt Sweater!

The Sweatshirt Sweater is my new go-to garb, spacious enough for underlayers and soft enough to go without. It's knit in Swans Island 100% organic merino, a beautiful light worsted yarn that evokes a natural refinement. I'll be in this uniform for these last snowy days of March, all the way through the crisp nights of spring!

Spoiler alert: as the seasons change, so does my uniform, so keep your eye out for some more knit basics in the months to come!

Materials

Gauge

5 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on larger needles

Sizes

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 33 3/4 (37 1/2, 41, 44 3/4, 48 1/4) inches
  • Finished Hip Circumference: 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) inches
  • Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 inches, with directions to adjust
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 7 1/2 (8 1/4, 9 1/4, 9 3/4, 10) inches
  • Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm: 16 (17, 19, 19 1/2, 20 1/2) inches, with direction to adjust
  • NOTE: The size Small sweater shown here on a 34-inch bust dressform with 3 1/2 inches of ease. Please pay close attention to finished dimensions above when selecting which size to make!

Notes

Slip 1, k2tog, psso (or sk2p): This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.

Knit 3 together (or k3tog): This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit. Knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch.

Pattern

Sleeves

With the smaller sized double pointed needles, cast on 42 (45, 51, 54, 60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1:  *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge.

Change to larger double pointed needles.

Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.

** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.

Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches

Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches

Note: If you are particularly short (or long) limbed and would like to adjust the length of the sleeve,

repeat Round 4 fewer (or more) times between increase rounds.

Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.

Place remaining 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches on scrap yarn or a spare circular needle.

Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Body  

Begin at Bottom Edge

With the smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) stitches.

Place marker and connect for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2 1/4 (2 1/4, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 3) inches.

Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)

Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round until piece measures 3 1/4 (3 1/4, 3 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/2, 4) inches from cast on edge.

Mark for Pouch (Optional)

NOTE: If you are not making the pouch, skip to the "Continue" section.

Round 1: K7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Continue working in established pattern until piece measures 10 (10 1/4, 10 1/2, 11, 12) inches from cast on edge.

Make the Pouch (Optional)

With the extra larger circular needle, starting with (and including) the marked stitch, slip the point of the needle under the right leg of the following 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) stitches

Remove the removable marker.

For this section, you will be working just the 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) pouch stitches. You'll work back and forth in rows, turning the piece at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1.

Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] two times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] two times, k1, p1.

Row 3 (decrease row): K1, p1, [k2, p1]  two times, ssk, knit to last 10 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. (2 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eighteen (19, 20, 21, 22) more times. 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) stitches

Repeat Row 2.

Cut yarn, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Graft the Pouch (Optional)

To graft the pouch stitches to the body of the sweater...

Returning to the body of the sweater and continuing from where you left off, k25 (26, 27, 28, 29). Now holding the pouch needle and sweater needle parallel to each other, *knit one stitch from the front pouch needle together with one stitch from the back sweater needle, repeat from *until all the pouch stitches have been knit. Now continuing with just the body stitches and working again in the round, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2], two times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round.

Continue

Continue working in established pattern until body of sweater measures 14 inches from cast on edge or desired length to underarm.

Yoke

Join the Sleeves

Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1. 179 (199, 217, 235, 253) stitches

Round 2: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to first stitch holder, pm, orient the sleeve's on-hold underarm stitches so they are parallel and next to the body's on-hold underarm stitches and knit the sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch to the right of the stitches on hold), pm, knit to next stitch holder, pm, knit the second sleeve stitches, place a different color marker (this is the new end of the round). 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve

Begin Raglan Shaping

Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end.

Repeat Round 1 two more times.

Next Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)

Repeat Round 1.

Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more times. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total stitches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) stitches for each sleeve

Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck

You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches

Row 3 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 138 (152, 160, 170, 182) stitches

Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row.  135 (149, 157, 166, 178) stitches

Row 5 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 3, (3, 3, 4, 4) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 124 (138, 146, 154, 166) stitches

Row 6 : Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 122 (136, 144, 151, 163) stitches

Row 7 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end  of row.  112 (126, 134, 140, 152) stitches

Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end.

Row 9 (raglan shaping row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. (10 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve

For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve

For XS Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 66 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve

For Medium Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve

For Large Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

For XLarge Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

Neckband

For this section, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in rows.

Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches

Next Round: *K1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round until ribbing measures 1 1/4 (1 1/4, 1 1/2 ,1 3/4 , 2) inches.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finish

Underarms

Slip one pair of underarm stitches from the stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding the needles parallel to one another, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft closed the underarm.

Repeat for second underarm.

Final Steps

Weave in your ends, block as desired and you are finished!

Click here to add a comment

121 Responses to The Sweatshirt Sweater


  1. Alexandra says:

    Hello!

    I am currently making this sweater in a size small and can't wait until it's done so I can wear it!!!! I have one question- when it says "for XS size only" "for Medium size only" "for large size only" and "for XLarge size only," does the size small just not do anything, or is there supposed to be something for the small to do, too? I'm guessing it's like in the step before where it says "For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only," but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right!!

    Thanks in advance for any help!
    -Alexandra

  2. purl bee says:

    Hi Alexandra.
    Follow the pattern for the size you are making. If a section has omitted your size, simply move on to the next section where your size is listed or it reads "For All Sizes"! You are absolutely doing it right and I am so thrilled to hear you are excited to wear your new sweater! Please let us know if you have any questions.
    Laura

  3. stacy says:

    Love this sweater. I am a little confused by the sizing and not sure what size to make. my Chest measures 36 inches and my hips are 38 inches. The hip measurements seem so small compared to the chest. I was thinking a medium would work in the chest. Is the bottom of that sweater just very stretchy?

  4. rowan says:

    this is my first sweater, and i am loving the pattern – i got so excited about it that i have nearly knit the whole thing in 3 weeks time. sadly i made a huge mistake that i am wondering if you have any advice for!
    i was initially having some trouble knitting to gauge with my choice of yarn, and i waffled back and forth for a while, but i accidentally made the sleeves size S and body size XS. which, i am realizing now that i am shaping the neck, matters a lot. i had just done more decreases when i attached the sleeves but of course the # of sts between front/back & sleeves is off.
    the trouble is, i also reaaaally like the way it's fitting right now, and wouldn't even want it done any differently. is there a way to do the neck without undoing everything? i am using a very dark yarn and can live with the raglan & neckband not lining up exactly as you have it, but as a total newbie to sweaters, i am not sure what the effect of less room to do the shaping in the front will be. can i just bind off/pick up fewer stitches without it looking awful? i believe i had 42 stitches in front/back at the beginning of the shaping section.. oh what a mess!

  5. purl bee says:

    Hi Stacy,
    The ribbing at the bottom of the sweater does have a lot of stretch or give, also, over time, this fabric, like all hand knits will morph to the wear-ers body a bit. There is no shaping in the body of the sweater. You'll have the same number of stitches from just above the rib to the underarms. The ribbing at the base just pulls in some, like a sweatshirt. I think the Medium would work for you!
    Laura

  6. purl bee says:

    Hi Rowan,
    Wow… that's a doozy of a situation. Definitely not unsolvable, but a bit complicated…

    You'll want to continue the raglan following the steps for the Small at the sleeve and the XSmall at the front and back… I would print the raglan portion of the pattern and see what decreasing happens in these parts of the garments for the sizes you need. Then when it comes to picking up for the front neck, you'll be able to follow the pattern as instructed for the xs. At this point, the numbers should work out so that you still have the raglan ribbing going right into the neck ribbing.
    Laura

  7. Susan says:

    When going up the sides, is there a strip of that k2p1 pattern? can I possibly get a picture of the side under the arms?

  8. purl bee says:

    Hi Susan,
    Yes, there is a 2 x 1 rib that travels up the side of the sweater. We have posted all of our images of this garment here. Did you If you see the image under thesection FINISH UNDERARMS? You can see the side ribbing a bit in that shot. I will try and dig up some more images, but I believe this is all of them. Is there a specific question you had about the ribbing?
    Thanks for writing in.
    Laura

  9. Kat says:

    Hello!
    So this is my first attempt at a sweater (I'm making the medium size) and it was going great until I got a little confused. When finished with the initial increase round after the rib at the start of making the body, from the beginning of the round to the next marker is 96 sts; but the number of sts from that marker to the beginning of the round again is 110 sts. Do I do the *(P1,K2)twice, P1* before I knit the 7 sts, then mark the start of the pouch? I feel like I might have done the aforementioned repetitive pattern in the wrong place, doing it immediately at the start of each round. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    I hope this makes sense!
    Kat

  10. purl bee says:

    Hi Kat!
    Thanks for writing in. Let's figure this out.
    First you knit the 96, place a marker that's a different color or shape than the beginning of round marker, (k1, p1) twice, p1, then knit 96 again, place a marker and then (k1, p1) twice, p1. At this point you should be at the beginning/end of the round.

    So again, its… stockinette, marker, rib, stockinette, marker rib.

    Please let me know if you have any questions at all!
    Laura

  11. Anne says:

    I think I misplaced the beginning of round market. i Have attached the sleeves already and attached the right sleeve first , the left sleeve is my "second sleeve".
    My new begining of the round marker is just before starting the first stitch on the right sleeve. Am I doing it right?
    I guess what I wan to know is: where do I star the ranglan shaping?
    Please help me! (I am having that "I really want to finish this sweater and wear it" crisis)

  12. purl bee says:

    Hi Anne,
    If you take a look at the second round under ATTACH THE SLEEVES you'll see a stitch count: 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve

    If your beginning of round marker is placed just after the second sleeve stitches, you can use the stitch counts above to ensure your markers are all where they ought to be.

    Please let me know if you have any questions!
    Enjoy finishing the sweater!!
    Laura

  13. Sabrina says:

    Bonsoir , je vis en France et j'adore ou plutt mon Mari adore le modle , mais pourriez vous m'expliquer pour les manches au niveau des augmentations faut -il faire un RG3 et un Rg 4 , ou 17 fois le Rg3 ? Ou 1fois le Rg3 , 4fois le Rg4 et rpter ces 6rg 17 fois je prcise que je fais la taille Large merci beaucoup pour votre rponse

  14. purl bee says:

    Hi Sabrina-

    I'm afraid we don't speak French, and that Google Translate isn't very helpful for stuff like this so I don't think we can be of much help. Sorry!

    Molly

  15. purl bee says:

    Hi Jane.
    Thanks for writing in. I hope you've enjoyed the pattern so far.
    K0 simply means knit zero stitches, then place previous 7 stitches on a stitch holder…
    The idea is that you want to have the side ribbing centered under the arm, and for some of the larger sizes, you have to knit past the ribbing and then place more stitches on hold, but for the smaller sizes, you can just knit zero.
    Let me know if you have any questions!
    Laura

  16. Eileen says:

    Love this pattern but am very sad that it was a 20 page print out! Most of the printing is pictures of the sweater, not so great for the environment. Something to think about ;)

  17. purl bee says:

    Hi Eileen-

    We hear you! To avoid this we always recommend that you print our patterns by copying and just the text and photos needed into a Word or Text doc and printing from there. Or you could use a site like Printfriendly.com which will take all of the photos out with the click of a button.

    We know this isn't ideal but unfortunately we don't have the man power to reformat all of our free patterns to be optimized for printing so hopefully one of these solutions will work for you!

    Thanks for getting in touch!

    Molly

  18. Jane says:

    Thank you for the reply, Laura! Can't wait to finish the sweater~ One more question.

    I made a few adjustments with the instructions to make the sleeves more custom fitted to me. I'm also kind of using one of my own sweaters underneath as a template. Regardless of those changes, do I knit the sleeve up to the underarm or the shoulder?

  19. purl bee says:

    Hi Jane.
    I love that you're making modification and using a favorite sweater as your template. It's a familiar sounding process!

    In regards to the sleeves… You knit up to the underarm. Then you'll join the sleeves to the body and work the yoke of the garment all together.

    Thanks for writing in.
    Laura

  20. Rosie says:

    I love this pattern so much! For the US #7, 24 or 32-inch circular needle, is it acceptable to use a US #7, 29-inch circular needle instead?

    • Laura from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Rosie.
      Yes, a US #7, 29-inch would work just wonderfully in place of a 24 or 32-inch circular.
      Thanks for writing in.
      Laura

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


5 − = one

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

X

JOIN OUR MAILING LIST!

Subscribers receive a FREE premium Purl Soho Pattern of your choice (up to a $15 value!). learn more