When my son was born I was pretty sure that he was the only baby who had ever existed in the history of the world. And even now, four years later, I still sometimes forget that other peoples' babies have come after him... but they have. Lots of them! And each one is right at the center of its parents' universe.

That's exactly why babies inspire our most special ideas, because to us, they are, in fact, very special. I made these Baby Bloomers to reflect that feeling, to be as lovely and indeed, as special as the babies who will wear them! Designed to fit over diapers in sizes from 6 to 18 months, these bloomers are really sweet over a onesie or under a loose top. Fold over the ribbed waist or pull it up to the armpits for a great vintage look.

Anzula's Mermaid brings a particluar beauty to this design. As light as air and as soft as babies' skin, it is a hand dyed mix of silk and sea cell (which is an unusual seaweed-cellulose blend). The result is gently shiny and absolutely gorgeous. You can pick up the two skeins you'll need right here with our Yarn for Baby Bloomers kit.

I wish I'd thought of these for my own baby, but since he's not the only baby in the world, I'm happy to think of these bloomers on yours! -Whitney

The Materials

Our Yarn for Baby Bloomers kit includes...

  • 2 skeins of Anzula's Mermaid, 60% Sea Cell and 40% Silk. This is enough yarn for 4 (3 [if the third pair used one color for the ribbing and the other color for the bloomer], 2) Baby Bloomers.

The Pond colorway (shown above) includes a skein of Seaside and one of Country Green, and the Wildflower colorway (shown below) includes a skein of Au Natural and one of Mauve.

You will also need...

The Pattern

Gauge

9 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, using the largest needle

Finished Sizes

6-9 (9-12, 12-18) months

Waist circumference (unstretched): 12 1/2 (13 1/2, 14 1/2) inches

Waist circumference (stretched): 20 (21 1/2, 23) inches

Hip circumference: 25 1/3 (27 1/2, 29 1/3) inches

Leg Opening (unstretched): 8 (9, 10) inches

Leg Opening (stretched): 12 (13 1/2, 15) inches

Length of Waistband: 4 (5, 6) inches

Length from bottom of Waistband to crotch: 8 1/2 (10, 11) inches

 

The Waistband

With the Main Color (MC) and the smallest circular needle (US #0), cast on 170 (184, 196) stitches.

Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Rounds 1-3: With MC, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4: With Contrast Color (CC), *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

(For tips on knitting stripes in the round, visit our Stripes in the Round Tutorial right here.)

Repeat Rounds 1-4 until piece measures 1 (1 1/4, 1 1/2) inches from the cast on edge.

Change to the next larger circular needle (US #1), and continue to repeat Rounds 1-4 until piece measures 3 3/4 (4 3/4, 5 3/4) inches from the cast on edge.

Repeat Rounds 1-3.

Cut the CC yarn.

The Bloomer

Change to the largest circular needle (US #2).

Next Round: With MC, kfb 0 (1, 0) times, [k1, kfb] 20 (22, 24) times, [k4, kfb] 18 (19, 20) times, [k1, kfb] 20 (22, 24) times. 228 (248, 264) stitches

Knit until pieces measures 4 3/4 (5 3/4, 6 3/4) inches from the bottom edge of the Waistband.

Prepare for Leg Openings

Next Round: With MC, k51 (55, 59), bind off 12 (14, 14), k101, (109, 117), bind off 12 (14, 14), k50 (54, 58) to end of round. 102 (110, 118) stitches for Front and Back; 204 (220, 236) stitches total

Remove stitch marker and k51 (55, 59) to the first set of bound off stitches.

The Back

For this section you will work just the previous 102 (110, 118) stitches, turning the piece at the end of each row. (Allow the other 102 [110, 118] Front stitches to remain on hold on the needle.)

Row 1 (wrong side [ws]): With the purl side facing you, bind off 5 stitches, purl to the end. 97 (105, 113) Back stitches

Row 2 (right side [rs]): With the knit side facing you, bind off 5 stitches, knit to the end. 92 (100, 108) Back stitches

Row 3: Bind off 4 stitches, purl to the end. 88 (96, 104) Back stitches

Row 4: Bind off 4 stitches, knit to the end. 84 (92, 100) Back stitches

Row 5: Bind off 3 stitches, purl to the end. 81 (89, 97) Back stitches

Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches, knit to the end. 78 (86, 94) Back stitches

Row 7: Bind off 2 stitches, purl to the end. 2 stitches decreased

Row 8: Bind off 2 stitches, knit to the end. 2 stitches decreased

Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 7 and 8. 70 (78, 86) Back stitches

Row 11: P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog tbl, p1. 2 stitches decreased

Row 12: K1, ssk, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog, k1. 2 stitches decreased

Repeat Rows 11 and 12 eight (8, 9) more times. 34 (42, 46) Back stitches

Next Row (ws): Purl.

Next Row (rs): K1, ssk, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog, k1. 2 stitches decreased

Repeat last 2 rows 2 (4, 4) more times. 28 (32, 36) Back stitches

Cut the yarn.

Leave these 28 (32, 36) remaining Back stitches on hold on the needle.

The Front

For this section you will work just the 102 (110, 118) Front stitches that have been on hold, turning the piece at the end of every row.

With the right side facing you, join the MC.

Row 1 (rs): Bind off 6 stitches, knit to the end. 96 (104, 112) Front stitches

Row 2 (ws): Bind off 6 stitches, purl to the end. 90 (98, 106) Front stitches

Row 3: Bind off 5 stitches, knit to the end. 85 (93, 101) Front stitches

Row 4: Bind off 5 stitches, purl to the end. 80 (88, 96) Front stitches

Row 5: Bind off 4 stitches, knit to the end. 76 (84, 92) Front stitches

Row 6: Bind off 4 stitches, purl to the end. 72 (80, 88) Front stitches

Row 7: Bind off 3 stitches, knit to the end. 69 (77, 85) Front stitches

Row 8: Bind off 3 stitches, purl to the end. 66 (74, 82) Front stitches

Row 9: Bind off 2 stitches, knit to the end. 2 stitches decreased

Row 10: Bind off 2 stitches, purl to the end. 2 stitches decreased

Rows 11-14: Repeat Rows 9 and 10. 54 (62, 70) Front stitches

Row 15: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. 2 stitches decreased

Row 16: P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog tbl, p1. 2 stitches decreased

Repeat Rows 15 and 16 five (6, 7) more times. 30 (34, 38) Front stitches

Repeat Row 15. 28 (32, 36) Front stitches

Cut yarn, leaving a 24-inch tail.

Finishing

Thread the 24-inch tail onto a tapestry needle.

Slide the Front stitches to one end of the circular needle and the Back stitches to the other end. Holding the needle ends parallel to each other, use the 24-inch tail and the Kitchener Stitch to graft the two sides together.

The Leg Bands

With the right side facing you, use the MC and three double pointed needles to pick up 74 (84, 92) stitches around the leg opening.

Join for working in the round.

Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 three (4, 5) more times.

Use the largest needle to bind off loosely in k1, p1 pattern.

Weave in the ends and gently block your bloomers, then make another pair in the oppostie colors!