Back in the very early days of the Purl Bee when we had about a dozen readers, a quarter of whom were our mothers, we posted a pattern for a sweater that we called the Treeline Striped Cardigan. It has endured to this day, enjoying an active life on Ravelry and garnering many comments here on the Bee. Unfortunately, a not insignificant number of those comments have been… egads, corrections!

This pattern is really from the Purl Bee dark ages, from before we had meetings or schedules or plans, let alone editors, but since then, we’ve… matured. And so it’s become time to rescue an old favorite from the annals of glitchy patterns. We’ve corrected some numbers, added a larger size and a schematic, streamlined the wording, and definitely made the whole pattern much more user friendly.

And on the style front, this new version has a more decisive collar (thanks to Faye, our intrepid re-designer!) and an updated choice of yarns. The New Treeline Striped Cardigan alternates between Manos Del Uruguay’s soft and cozy Maxima and Alchemy’s charismatic Kozmos. The result is a textural adventure, full of fascination and beauty!

So get started on the newly simplified (and finally accurate!) pattern here, and if you’re curious about the original, it’s in deep storage right here!

Materials

Gauge

16 stitches and 26 rows= 4 inches in striped stockinette stitch, blocked (see Stripe and Rib Pattern; for swatching, work in stockinette stitch only, omitting the ribbed stitches)

Sizes

34 ½ (38 ½, 42 ½)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 34 ½ (38 ½, 42 ½) inches, buttoned
  • Finished length from bottom edge to shoulder: 21 ¾ (22 ¼, 22 ¾) inches
  • Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 (13 ½, 13 ½) inches
  • Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 17 (17 ½, 18) inches

EASE: This garment is designed with a 2- to 4- inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: Size 34 ½ is pictured here.

Purl_Soho_treeline_SCH-600-72

Notes

Since the Sleeves are worked in the round, it is easy to change colors: simply change at the beginning of each round (see Stripe Pattern in the Round, below). When working back and forth, however, this pattern employs a neat technique for working stripes that are only one row high without having to cut and rejoin the yarn. The entire body of the sweater is worked this way (see Stripe and Rib Pattern, below). A circular needle is required for this technique.

STRIPE PATTERN IN THE ROUND

Round 1: With CC, knit.

Round 2: With MC, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Stripe Pattern in the Round. Carry the color not in use up the wrong side.

STRIPE AND RIB PATTERN

Row 1: On the right side of the work, using CC, [k1, p1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern), knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern); do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the right side again.

Row 2: Still on the right side, using MC, [k1, p1] 3 times, knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times; turn.

Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work across the wrong side again.

Row 4: Still on the wrong side, using MC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; turn.

Repeat Rows 1-4 for Stripe and Rib Pattern. Note that you work 2 rows on the right side (one in CC, followed by one in MC), then 2 rows on the wrong side (one in CC, followed by one in MC). Never turn after working CC; always slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work on that same side with MC. Always turn after working MC, ready to work on the opposite side of the work with CC. Carry the color not in use up the outside edge of the work, being careful not to pull too tightly when working the first stitch in the row.

Pattern

Sleeves

CUFF

With MC, cast 32 (36, 40) stitches onto the double pointed needles.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Do not cut MC.STRIPES

Join CC. Beginning Stripe Pattern in the Round (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rounds 1 and 2 three times.

SHAPE SLEEVE

Increase Round: Continuing in Stripe Pattern as established, knit front and back (kfb), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased]

Work even in Stripe Pattern in the Round for 6 rounds.

Repeat last 7 rounds 8 (9, 10) more times. (Increase Rounds will fall alternately on a MC round, then on a CC round). [50 (56, 62) stitches]

Continue to work in Stripe Pattern in the Round without increasing until piece measures 17 (17 ½, 18) inches from cast on edge, ending with a MC round.

Final Round: With CC, knit to end of round, remove marker, k3 (4, 5) stitches past the marker, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder. [44 (48, 52) stitches remain]

Cut both yarns, leaving a 12-inch tail of MC (you’ll need it later to graft the underarms together!). Put the first sleeve on hold on a stitch holder, an extra circular needle, or scrap yarn and make a second sleeve the same as the first.

Body

BOTTOM RIBBING

With MC, cast 137 (153, 169) stitches onto the circular needle.

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until pieces measures 2 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 2. Do not cut MC.

STRIPES

Join CC. Beginning Stripe and Rib Pattern (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rows 1-4 until piece measures 14 (13 ½, 13 ½) inches from cast on edge (or desired length to underarm), ending with Row 4 of pattern.

Yoke

YOKE PREPARATION

Return to Body stitches.

Next Row (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 37 (42, 47) stitches, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, k69 (77, 85), place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, work to end of row. [125 (137, 149) total stitches: 31 (34, 37) stitches for each front and 63 (69, 75) stitches for the back]. Do not turn work; with the right side still facing you, slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle.

JOIN SLEEVES TO BODY

Joining Row (right side again; Row 2 of pattern): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 31 (34, 37) stitches, place marker (pm), k44 (48, 52) across right sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, k63 (69, 75) across back, pm, k44 (48, 52) across left sleeve stitches (again, starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, work to end of row. [213 (233, 253) stitches, divided by four markers indicating the front and back raglans]. Turn work. Work even in Stripe and Rib Pattern for 2 rows (Rows 3 and 4 of pattern; both WS rows).

SHAPE RAGLAN

Note: Throughout all raglan shaping rows, continue to work in Stripe and Rib Pattern as established.

Row 1 (right side): *Work to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, work to end of row. [8 stitches decreased]

Rows 2-4: Work even in pattern.

Repeat Rows 1-4 two more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once. [181 (201, 221) stitches remain: 55 (61, 67) stitches for back, 36 (40, 44) stitches for each sleeve, 27 (30, 33) stitches for each front]

SHAPE NECK EDGE AND RAGLAN

Row 1 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased; 2 stitches at each raglan and 1 stitch at each neck edge]

Row 2 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 3 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased; 2 stitches at each raglan and 1 stitch at each neck edge]

Row 4 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Repeat Rows 1-4 three (four, five) more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (one, zero) time(s). [91 (91, 101) stitches remain: 37 (39, 43) stitches for back, 9 (8, 9) stitches for each front, 18 (18, 20) stitches for each sleeve]
SIZE 34 ½ ONLY

Row 1 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [83 stitches: 35 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front, 16 stitches for each sleeve]

Row 2 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 3 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *slip marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, repeat from * twice more, slip marker, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [75 stitches remain: 33 stitches for back, 7 stitches for each front, 14 stitches for each sleeve]

Row 4 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 5 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, removing marker, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once more, knit to 3 stitches before marker, [k2tog] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [67 stitches remain: 31 stitches for back, 18 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 6 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 7 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once more, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [59 stitches remain: 29 stitches for back, 15 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 8 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 9 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once more, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [51 stitches remain: 27 stitches for back, 12 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 10 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 11 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [45 stitches remain: 25 stitches for back, 10 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 12 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 13 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [39 stitches remain: 23 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 14 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

SIZE 42 ½ ONLY

Row 1 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [93 stitches: 41 stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front, 18 stitches for each sleeve]

Row 2 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

SIZES 38 ½ AND 42 ½ ONLY

Row 1 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, slip marker, *k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, repeat from * twice more, k2tog, work to end of row. [– (83, 85) stitches remain: – (37, 39) stitches for back, 7 stitches for each front, 16 stitches for each sleeve]

Row 2 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 3 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, removing marker, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, [p2togtbl] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [– (75, 77) stitches remain: – (35, 37) stitches for back, 20 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 4 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 5 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [– (67, 69) stitches remain: – (33, 35) stitches for back, 17 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 6 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 7 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [– (59, 61) stitches remain: – (31, 33) stitches for back, 14 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 8 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Row 9 (right side; Row 1 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [– (53, 55) stitches remain: – (29, 31) stitches for back, 12 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 10 (right side; Row 2 of pattern): Work even.

Row 11 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [– (47, 49) stitches remain: – (27, 29) stitches for back, 10 stitches for each front/sleeve]

Row 12 (wrong side; Row 4 of pattern): Work even.

Rows 13 and 14 (right side): Repeat Rows 9 and 10. [— (41, 43) stitches remain: – (25, 27) stitches for back, 8 stitches for each front/sleeve]

ALL SIZES

Row 15 (wrong side; Row 3 of pattern): Work to next marker, remove marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, remove marker, work to end of row. [37 (39, 41) stitches remain]

Collar and Front Bands

BACK OF COLLAR

Continue with MC only.

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. At the end of the row, with the right side still facing you, pick up and knit 4 stitches along the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With the wrong side still facing you, pick up and knit (purlwise) 4 stitches along the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (nine, ten) more times. [109 (119, 129) stitches]

FRONT BANDS

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. With the right side still facing you, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the left front edge, ending after picking up an even number of stitches.

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With wrong side still facing you, pick up (purlwise) 2 stitches for every 3 rows down right front edge, ending after picking up and even number of stitches.

Row 3: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until front bands measure ¾ inch, ending with a wrong side row.

Buttonhole Row (right side): [K1, p1] twice, bind off next 2 stitches, *work 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2) inches in 1 x 1 rib as established, bind off 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.

Next Row: *Work in 1 x 1 rib as established to bound-off stitches, cable cast on 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.

Continue to work in 1 x 1 rib as established until front bands measure 1 1/2 inches, incorporating the cable cast-on stitches into the 1 x 1 rib pattern.

Finish

Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarm seams together.

Sew on six ¾-inch buttons across from the buttonholes.

Weave in your ends and gently block your new cardigan!