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New Treeline Striped Cardigan

Back in the very early days of the Purl Bee when we had about a dozen readers, a quarter of whom were our mothers, we posted a pattern for a sweater that we called the Treeline Striped Cardigan. It has endured to this day, enjoying an active life on Ravelry and garnering many comments here on the Bee. Unfortunately, a not insignificant number of those comments have been... egads, corrections!

This pattern is really from the Purl Bee dark ages, from before we had meetings or schedules or plans, let alone editors, but since then, we've... matured. And so it's become time to rescue an old favorite from the annals of glitchy patterns. We've corrected some numbers, added a larger size and a schematic, streamlined the wording, and definitely made the whole pattern much more user friendly.

And on the style front, this new version has a more decisive collar (thanks to Faye, our intrepid re-designer!) and an updated choice of yarns. The New Treeline Striped Cardigan alternates between Manos Del Uruguay's soft and cozy Maxima and Alchemy's charismatic Kozmos. The result is a textural adventure, full of fascination and beauty!

So get started on the newly simplified (and finally accurate!) pattern here, and if you're curious about the original, it's in deep storage right here!

Materials

Gauge

4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Sizes

Woman's Small (Medium, Large)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 34 1/2 (38 1/2, 42 1/2) inches, buttoned
  • Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (13 1/2, 13 1/2) inches
  • Length from cuff to armhole: 17 (17 1/2, 18) inches

 

Notes

Since the Sleeves are worked in the round, it is easy to change colors: simply change at the beginning of each round (see Stripe Pattern in the Round, below). When working back and forth, however, this pattern employs a neat technique for working stripes that are only one row high without having to cut and rejoin the yarn. The entire body of the sweater is worked this way (see Stripe and Rib Pattern, below).

STRIPE PATTERN IN THE ROUND

Round 1: With CC, knit.

Round 2: With MC, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Stripe Pattern in the Round. Carry the color not in use up the wrong side.

STRIPE AND RIB PATTERN

Row 1: On the right side of the work, using CC, [k1, p1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern), knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern); do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to knit again.

Row 2: Still on the right side, using MC, [k1, p1] 3 times, knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times; turn.

Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to purl again.

Row 4: Still on the wrong side, using MC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; turn.

Repeat Rows 1-4 for Stripe and Rib Pattern. Note that you work 2 rows on the right side (one in CC, followed by one in MC), then 2 rows on the wrong side (one in CC, followed by one in MC). Never turn after working CC; always slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work on that same side with MC. Always turn after working MC, ready to work on the opposite side of the work with CC. Carry the color not in use up the outside edge of the work, being careful not to pull too tightly when working the first stitch in the row.

Pattern

Sleeves

CUFF

With MC, cast 32 (36, 40) stitches onto the double pointed needles.

Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Do not cut MC.

STRIPES

Join CC. Beginning Stripe Pattern in the Round (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rows 1 and 2 three more times.

SHAPE SLEEVE

Increase Round: Continuing in Stripe Pattern as established, knit front and back (kfb), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased]

Work even in Stripe Pattern in the Round for 6 rounds.

Repeat last 7 rounds 8 (9, 10) more times. You will alternate working the Increase Round on a MC round, then on a CC round. [50 (56, 62) stitches]

Continue to work in Stripe Pattern in the Round without increasing until piece measures 17 (17 1/2, 18) inches from cast on edge, ending with a MC round.

Final Round: With CC, knit to end of round, remove marker, k3 (4, 5) stitches past the marker, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder. [44 (48, 52) stitches remain]

Cut both yarns, leaving a 12-inch tail of MC (you’ll need it later to graft the underarms together!).
 Put the first sleeve on hold on stitch holders, an extra circular needle, or scrap yarn and make a second sleeve the same as the first.

Body

BOTTOM RIBBING

With MC, cast 137 (153, 169) stitches onto the circular needle.

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until pieces measures 2 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 2. Do not cut MC.

STRIPES

Change to CC and Stripe and Rib Pattern (see Pattern Notes, above). Work even until piece measures 14 (13 1/2, 13 1/2) inches from cast on edge (or desired length to underarm), ending with Row 4 of pattern.

Yoke

YOKE PREPARATION

Next Row (right side): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 37 (42, 47) stitches, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, k69 (77, 85), place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, work to end of row. [125 (137, 149) total working stitches: 31 (34, 37) stitches for each front and 63 (69, 75) stitches for the back]. Do not turn work; with the right side still facing you, slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle.

JOIN SLEEVES TO BODY

Joining Row (right side again): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 31 (34, 37) stitches, place marker (pm), k44 (48, 52) across right sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, k63 (69, 75) across back, pm, k44 (48, 52) across left sleeve stitches (again, starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, work to end of row. [213 (233, 253) stitches, divided by four markers indicating the front and back of the shoulders]. Turn work. Work even in Stripe and Rib Pattern for 2 rows.

SHAPE RAGLAN

Note: Throughout all raglan shaping rows, continue to work in Stripe and Rib Pattern as established.

Row 1 (right side): *Work to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, work to end of row. [8 stitches decreased]

Rows 2-4: Work even.

Repeat Rows 1-4 two more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once. [181 (201, 221) stitches remain]

SHAPE NECK EDGE AND RAGLAN

Row 1 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased]

Row 2: Work even.

Row 3 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased]

Row 4: Work even.

Repeat Rows 1-4 three (four, five) more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (one, zero) time(s). [91 (91, 101) stitches remain]

SIZE SMALL ONLY

Row 1 (right side): Work 6 stitches, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [83 stitches]

Row 2: Work even.

Row 3 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *slip marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, repeat from * twice, slip marker, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [75 stitches remain]

Row 4: Work even.

Row 5 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, removing marker, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to 3 stitches before marker, [k2tog] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [67 stitches remain]

Row 6: Work even.

Row 7 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [59 stitches remain]

Row 8: Work even.

Row 9 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [51 stitches remain]

Row 10: Work even.

Row 11 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [45 stitches remain]

Row 12: Work even.

Row 13 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [39 stitches remain]

Row 14: Work even.

SIZE LARGE ONLY

Row 1 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, *purl to 2 stitches before marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * 3 more times, purl to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [93 stitches]

Row 2: Work even.

SIZES MEDIUM AND LARGE ONLY

Row 1 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, slip marker, *k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, repeat from * once, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, work to end of row. [— (83, 85) stitches remain]

Row 2: Work even.

Row 3 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, removing marker, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to 3 stitches before marker, [p2togtbl] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [— (75, 77) stitches remain]

Row 4: Work even.

Row 5 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [— (67, 69) stitches remain]

Row 6: Work even.

Row 7 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [— (59, 61) stitches remain]

Row 8: Work even.

Row 9 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from * once, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [— (53, 55) stitches remain]

Row 10: Work even.

Row 11 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from * once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [— (47, 49) stitches remain

Row 12: Work even.

Rows 13 and 14 (right side): Repeat Rows 9 and 10. [— (41, 43) stitches remain]

ALL SIZES

Row 15 (wrong side): Work to next marker, remove marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, remove marker, work to end of row. [37 (39, 41) stitches remain] Cut CC yarn.

Collar and Front Bands

BACK OF COLLAR

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. At the end of the row, with the right side still facing you, pick up 4 stitches at the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With the wrong side still facing you, pick up (purlwise) 4 stitches at the neck edge. [4 stitches increased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (nine, ten) more times. [109 (119, 129) stitches]

FRONT BANDS

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. With the right side still facing you, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the left front edge.

Row 2 (wrong side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. With wrong side still facing you, pick up (purlwise) 2 stitches for every 3 rows down right front edge.

Row 3: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until front bands measure 3/4 inch, ending with a wrong side row.

Buttonhole Row (right side): [K1, p1] twice, bind off next 2 stitches, *work 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2) inches in 1 x 1 rib as established, bind off 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.

Next Row: *Work in 1 x 1 rib as established to bound-off stitches, cable cast on 2 stitches, repeat from * 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row.

Continue to work in 1 x 1 rib as established until front bands measure 1 1/2 inches, incorporating the cable cast-on stitches into the 1 x 1 rib as established.

Finish

Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarm seams together.

Sew on six 3/4-inch buttons across from the buttonholes.

Weave in your ends and gently block your new cardigan!

32 Responses to New Treeline Striped Cardigan


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  1. Vanessa says:

    gorgeous! love seeing this revived! It might be time for me to (finally!) knit it.

  2. Leigh says:

    And my already long To Knit list just got longer. Darn you. :-) Beautiful sweater! I can't wait to cast on!

  3. Stephanie says:

    I was one of those early readers. I've long kept this cardigan in my mental queue, and now that I see the update I'm pretty sure I'll need to cast on for it right away! Thank you!

  4. Paulette says:

    Hello! I have a question about another pattern… Quite awhile ago I saved the link to your Dragon Scale Mitts pattern with the intention of coming back to it. But the page that opens now says the project is no longer available. Is there any way for me to get my hands (and needles!) on this older pattern? Thanks for your help!

  5. Stephanie says:

    Beautiful Sweater! I would love to make it but the link to the pattern is not hyperlinked.

  6. purl bee says:

    Hi Stephanie-

    The full free pattern is available above your comment on this page.

    Please let us know if you're having problems seeing it for some reason.

    Thank you!

    Molly

  7. purl bee says:

    Hi Paulette-

    Yes, that pattern is available here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dragon-scale-mitts

    Many of our older patterns are available on Ravelry! Thanks so much for getting in touch!

    Molly

  8. britt says:

    glad to here that you made corrections. makes life so much easier for those that need to focus closely on knitting directions. this sweater looks like it lends itself well to lots of color options. i am going to have to go check it out on ravelry.

  9. roxane says:

    what a gorgeous update, especially in the two shades of ivory. very elegant. and the updated collar lends a more feminine finish to this beautiful design. well done.

  10. Erica says:

    I am pretty sure that I have found a mistake in the pattern. The numbers do not add up for the medium and large sizes at the join the sleeves section. Instead of each size being 20 sts larger my math says that they should be only 16 sts larger. After this point only the small size matches the numbers on the pattern.

    Sorry to point that out.

  11. Vicki says:

    Always on the lookout for a great cardigan! Could I substitute Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyed for both the Kosmos and the Maxima? Thanks!

  12. purl bee says:

    Erica! Thank You!
    You are right.

    Under SLEEVE: Shape Sleeve the numbers should be (and are now) 44 (48, 52) sts, NOT 44 (46, 48) sts.

    Under BODY: Join Sleeves to Body the numbers should be (and are now) 44 (48, 52) sts, NOT 44 (46, 48) sts.

    Luckily this error was isolated (not that any error is ok!). The numbers that follow, below in the pattern are all still correct.

    We cannot thank you enough for taking the time to let us know your findings. I hope this means you're making the sweater?!? Let us know how it goes!
    Thanks,
    Laura

  13. Caroline says:

    Love this cardi. It's going on my project que which seems to grow every time I read your blog/website
    Thanks for the inspiration

  14. Cassy says:

    Ha! I was one of those early people.When I encountered a numbers issue, I called the store to ask about the errors. The person I spoke with helped me iron things out over the phone and I'm grateful because I LOVE that sweater. It's one of my first, and a favorite go-to when it gets chilly. Glad to see it lives on.

  15. purl bee says:

    Hi Vicki.

    Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyes are beautiful. It is a thicker worsted weight yarn though. Kozmos is a thinner worsted; the mohair in it is what fills it out. The Maxima is also a bit thinner than the Blue Sky Worsted Hand Dyes. Long story short, you could use the Worsted Hand Dyes, but it will be a dense fabric at 4 stitches to the inch and a very heavy fabric comparatively.

    Hope this helps.
    Laura

  16. Lynda says:

    I would appreciated it if you continued to size up this beautiful sweater to at least a 50 inch bust.

  17. purl bee says:

    Hi Lynda-

    We don't have plans to add sizes to this sweater at the moment. Unfortunately scaling a pattern up or down requires technical expertise that we can't always provide in our free patterns. But thank you so much for getting in touch and letting us know what size would work for you. We will keep it in mind as we go forward.

    Thanks!

    Molly

  18. Betsy says:

    I'm sure I'm missing something but when I got to the end of the first sleeve, I followed the directions and knit around with CC then knit four beyond the marker and placed the previous 8 on holder. But do I keep the other 48 stitches live as well and put on another holder or piece of scrap yarn?

  19. Myfanwy says:

    Thank you for this lovely pattern, I made it in handspun alpaca (just one colour) and it looks great. It was so easy to knit the body on the long circular needle and the sleeves in the round, no seams to deal with. I'm sure this is a pattern to use again and again!

  20. Michelle says:

    I am a little confused about the following direction (under STRIPE AND RIB PATTERN) :

    "Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to purl again."

    How do you slide the stitches BACK to the right-hand end of the needle when you always knit from left to right/ with right hand? Sorry I'm new to knitting cardigans with circular needles. Thanks !

  21. purl bee says:

    Hi Michelle,

    Good question! When you have finished working a row and you hold up the piece with the side you just worked facing you, the stitches tend to be bunched on the left end of the needle. So, keeping the piece oriented this way, you slide the stitches to the right end of the needle, then bring the left needle around the back of the work so that it is now the right needle, ready to work the first stitch.

    Does that make sense? If not, let us know! And thanks for asking!

    Whitney

  22. Diane says:

    I am a brand new knitter; just completed my first project: a beanie. Turned out well. I'm about to start another project this evening but THIS is definitely going to be on my to-do list. If I saw this in a store, I'd buy it — better yet, now I can make it. Thanks!!

  23. Kim says:

    Are the yardage requirements correct? Three skins of each color? The Kosmos has only 119yd per skein while the Maxima has 219yds. If doing one row stripes shouldn't the required yardage be near equal? I I look forward to making this.

  24. purl bee says:

    Hi Kim-

    The yardage is correct. The cuffs and collar bands are done just using the Main Color so you end up using more of that than the Contrast Color.

    Thanks!

    Molly

  25. Amy says:

    I'm wondering if you have a variation for knitting the sleeves on straight needles and joining with a seam. My work on double-pointed needles is quite sloppy-looking.

    Thanks!

  26. purl bee says:

    Hi Amy,

    We haven't written out the pattern for flat knitting, but you can pretty easily extrapolate from the in-the-round directions, just make sure you knit one row and purl the next (instead of knitting every round) in order to get stockinette stitch.

    Another (maybe easier) alternative would be to use 12-inch circular needles instead of double pointed needles! You can find them here: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8-Skacel-Addi-Turbo-Circular-Needles

    Thanks for your question and good luck!

    Whitney

  27. Reid says:

    I was wondering what you would suggest as an alternative yarn to the Kozmos? It is very expensive and I would love to make this sweater for my mom as a thank you for homeschooling me all these years, but I don't have that much money. Any suggestions?

    Thanks.

  28. purl bee says:

    Hi Reid,

    Sure! You may want to check out Blue Sky's Brushed Suri, which similarly play with textural differences: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1809-Blue-Sky-Brushed-Suri . Another thought would be to add a strand Alchemy's Haiku (http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1025-Alchemy-Haiku ) to an inexpenisve light worsted weight yarn, like Cascade 220 (http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/649-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220 ). A final thought would be to use Purl Soho's Alpaca Pure, which would be a more subtle shift in textures, but still very beautiful! It's right here: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9307-Purl-Soho-Alpaca-Pure

    I hope this gets you going, and please let us know if you have any other questions! You have such a lovely idea. Most moms don't get thanked enough!!

    Whitney

  29. Nara says:

    Hello!
    I have the same question Betsy has, but no one answered ;)

  30. purl bee says:

    Hi Nara (and Betsy!),

    I just edited the pattern to clarify that step for you (and everyone else who might wonder)! Yes, you do keep the first sleeve's stitches live and on hold. You put them on hold so you'll have the double pointed needles available to make the next sleeve. If you happen to have two sets of double pointed needles in the size you're using, you can simply set the first sleeve aside and make the other with your second set of dpn's.

    Thanks for asking (and for making us finally answer Betsy; sorry, Betsy!) and please let us know if you have any more question!

    Whitney

  31. Margaret says:

    I am enjoying knitting the Treeline Striped Cardi for my daughter in the small size. I am using the original pattern and updated one, however the updated one states under the heading ‘Shape Neck Edge and Raglan’ Row 1 (wrong side) but if you follow from ‘Shape Raglan’ where Row 1 is (right side) and you then do 13 more rows then the next row should be (right side). … So I am confused?
    Should I just do an extra row before before the neck edge shaping?
    Would appreciate you advice.

    • Whitney from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Margaret,

      For the Shape Raglan section, Rows 1 and 2 are right side rows and Rows 3 and 4 are wrong side rows, so if you finish that section with working Rows 1 and 2 one more time, you’re all set to go on the wrong side for Row 1 of the Shape Neck Edge and Raglan section. Maybe you didn’t see the end instruction in the Shape Raglan section that says to repeat Rows 1 and 2?

      Please let us know if you’re still stuck and thank you so much for asking!
      Whitney

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