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Simple Stitched Hot Pads

It’s Cooks Week here on the Purl Bee, the time to share great sewing patterns (that you still have time to make!) for all of the chefs and sous chefs in your life. Today we present one of the most crucial kitchen accessories: the hot pad!

These Simple Stitched Hot Pads may be ultra easy to make, but they’re so elegant and cleanly finished that no one will guess how little time they took. They’re made of  a gorgeous array of denim blues on one side and a soft wool on the other, a sum that equals understated beauty!

The subtle fabric and pretty handstitching may not seem cut out for hard work, but lined with heat resistant Insulbrite, these Hot Pads are built for the reality of blistering handles and burning pans., And with their long rectangular shape our Simple Stitched Hot Pads work equally well as hot pads, oven mitts, or trivets!

To see our previous Cooks Week installment, the Simple Linen Apron, click here. And to see what’s cooking next, stay tuned… -Molly

Materials

Our Materials for Simple Stitched Hot Pads kit includes…

1/4 yard of each of the following Robert Kaufman fabrics:

1 yard Dorr Mill’s Wool Yardage

1 yard of Insul-brite Lining

3 yards 14mm Twill Tape, Ecru

DMC Pearl Cotton, Size 8, Cream

1 small spool Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 1040

You’ll also need…

An erasable fabric marker

These are enough materials to make twelve 7-inch by 12-inch Hot Pads.

Pattern

Pre-wash and dry all the fabrics. Do not wash the Insul-brite lining. Washing and drying the wool will felt it and make it nice and fluffy!

Cutting

From one of the cotton fabrics cut a rectangle, 9 inches wide by 13 inches tall.

From the wool cut a rectangle, 9 inches wide by 13 inches tall.

From the lining cut a rectangle, 9 inches wide by 13 inches tall.

From the twill tape, cut a 7-inch length.

Sewing

Orient the cotton rectangle so that the long sides are vertical, the short sides are horizontal and the right side is facing up.

Fold the twill tape in half so that the two raw ends meet and there is a half twist in the tape, as shown above. Place the raw ends of the twill tape at the center of the top short side of the cotton rectangle, as shown above.

Place the wool rectangle, wrong side up, on top of the cotton rectangle, making sure that the twill tape stays in place. Then place the lining on top of these layers and pin all three layers together along all four edges.

Using your machine’s walking foot and a ½-inch seam allowance, sew all the layers together along both long sides and the top short side (including the twill tape), leaving the bottom short edge unsewn.

Turn the hot pad right sides out. The cotton will be on one side, the lining will be in the center, and the wool will be on the other side.

Next you will mark the hot pad for the hand-stitched quilting. You have three options:

Four-stitch diamond option: On the cotton side, make four small marks (represented here by white x’s), as directed above.

Mark the wool side of the hot pad in the same way and then connect these marks to create a diamond shape, as shown above.

Four-stitch rectangle option: On the cotton side, make four small marks, as shown above.

Mark the wool side of the hot pad in the same way and then connect these marks to create a rectangle shape.

Six-stitch rectangle option: On the cotton side, make six small marks, as shown above.

Mark the wool side of the hot pad in the same way and then connect these marks to create a rectangle shape.

Thread a length of pearl cotton and tie a knot at the end. Pull the needle through the bottom open edge of the hot pad, exiting on the cotton side at one of the top-most marks. This hides the knot inside the hot pad.

At each mark you will stitch a cross stitch through all three layers of the hot pad, securing the layers together.

You already exited the hot pad at point 1, now with the cotton side facing up, re-enter at point 2, exit again at point 3, re-enter at point 4. These stitches should be approximately 3/8 inch long.

The wool side of the backstitch looks like two parallel, vertical lines.

Having exited on the wool side of the hot pad, now sewing just through the lining and wool layers, stitch an approximately ¼-inch running stitch  every inch along the straight marked line towards the next marked point. Do you want to recommend a length of stitch?

At the next marked point make another cross stitch and then travel along the wool side in the same manner to the next marked point. Keep going like this until you have made it all the way around to the first marked point.

The needle should now be on the wool side at the first marked point.  Tie a small knot into the first stitch. Then insert the needle at the last exit point and pull it under just the wool layer and then out an inch or so later. Clip the thread at the exit point to hide the end.

Fold the remaining raw edges a ½ inch inwards and pin them together. Using the sewing thread, handstitch the edge closed with a bind stitch.

Erase the fabric markings on the wool and you’re all done!

 

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7 Responses to Simple Stitched Hot Pads


  1. Liz Machin says:

    What fabric can I substitute for the Door mill cloth.?I live in the UK

  2. purl bee says:

    Hi Liz-

    We ship to the UK all the time! But if that's not a good option for you we recommend finding any soft felted wool. You even cut up an old sweater that has been shrunk and felted in the wash.

    Thank you!

    Molly

  3. Denise Reed says:

    What wonderful hot pads, a great and easy tutorial. I love making useful and beautiful items for the home. Thank you for the post.

  4. Donna says:

    Can these hotpads be washed after they are sewn together?

  5. jen says:

    Hi Donna!

    The Warm Company (who makes the insulated batting) states it is machine washable and dryable so as long as the fabrics are pre-washed, I would say yes! I personally may machine wash and lay flat to dry :)

    Thanks!
    Jen
    purlsoho.com

  6. franny says:

    does this insul-brite lining make a crinkly sound? hoping to make oven mitts/ hot pads that don't make that sound.
    thanks!

  7. purl bee says:

    Hi Franny-

    Yes, the lining does make a crinkly sound. Sorry! You might try making these with two layers of thick cotton batting to avoid the sound.

    Thanks!

    Molly

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