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Wear Anywhere Tunic

The Wear Anywhere Tunic is true to its name: comfortable enough to wear lounging at the beach, stylish enough to sport on the sidewalks of New York City, and so surprisingly flattering that it’s even perfect for a dinner out.  We tested our versatility theory with three versions in three different fabrics and two different necklines. Yup, it’s definitely the Wear Anywhere Tunic!

In Robert Kaufman’s Organic Voile, this Tunic is the ultimate pullover for the beach or pool. The sheer fabric is light and breezy, and the neon stitching shines like the sun itself. This version just begs to be worn with a big, floppy sunhat and a drink in hand, preferably something in a coconut!

In Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is just right for the city: comfortable, versatile and chic. For this version, added stitching at the bust and back provide shape and coverage, and for all three tunics, waist ties give a just-right-for-you fit.

Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn in the elegant Lodden print lends a dreamy touch. Delicate loops of flowering vines make me think of backyard gardens overflowing with summer’s abundance and stately country homes. I can’t wait to wear this dress amongst flowers and friends at a garden wedding later this month!

Made from just a handful of easy-to-cut rectangles and straight seams, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is as easy to sew as it is to wear. So, make one for your date tonight, your beach excursion this weekend and next week’s barbeque with friends… wherever your summer plans take you! -Corinne

Materials

Version A

Note: The pattern on this fabric runs parallel to the selvage.

Version B

Note: The pattern on this fabric runs perpendicular to the selvage.

Version C

Sizes

To fit chest sizes 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-46) inches in circumference

Finished Measurements

Notes

Prewash all fabrics before starting.
For the sake of clarity our instructional photos show a fabric with a clear right and wrong side. If you are working with the Organic Voile, Chambray Union, or similar fabrics which don’t have a clear right or wrong side, choose either side as the right side for the first seam and follow this precedent for all subsequent steps.

Pattern

Cut

NOTE: When cutting simple rectangular shapes for patterns such as this, straight, clean cuts are key. The best way to make these cuts is with a rotary cutter and a non-slip quilting ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. If you have limited experience using a rotary cutter, I recommend visiting our Rotary Cutting Tutorial.

Cut two 11 by 27 (12 by 28, 13 by 29, 14 by 30, 15 by 31)-inch rectangles. These are the Top Pieces. If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the side edges.

Cut two 22 ½ by 24 (24 ½ by 25, 26 ½ by 26, 28 ½ by 27, 30 ½ by 28)-inch rectangles. These are the Bottom Pieces (the first measurement is the Waist Edge, the second is the Side Edge). If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the Side Edge of the rectangles.

For Versions A and B, cut two 1 1/8-inch wide strips from selvage to selvage. These are the Tie Pieces.

Use the charts below for help with the layout of the pieces on the fabric.

Version A

chart_versionA

Version B

chart_versionB

Version C

Use the chart for Version B for chest sizes 28-31, 32-35 and 36-39 inches. Use the chart for Version A for chest sizes 40-43 and 44-46 inches.

You will also cut the Neon Lacing into two 1 ½-yard pieces.

Tie an overhand knot at one end of each cord. At the other end, lightly singe the cut edge with the flame from a lighter or a match. This will seal the threads and prevent fraying while you work.

Prepare the Tunic Top

Fold the two long sides of the Top Pieces ¼ inch twice towards the wrong side and press.

Versions A and B

Stack the two Top Pieces on top of each other with their right sides facing each other. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of each rectangle.

Open up the fold on the top right side of both pieces and pin together for 5 ½ (5 ¾, 6, 6 ¼, 6 ½) inches. Sew along this pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance, using the innermost crease as a stitch guide.

This seam is the center of the Top Back

Now, open up the fold on the bottom right side of both pieces and pin together for 3 (3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ¾, 4) inches. Sew along this pinned line in the same manner described above.

This seam is the center of the Top Front

This whole piece is now called the Top.

Refold the creased edges.

All Versions

Sew the hems down with an edgestitch.

Piece the Top and Bottom

Fold one Bottom Piece in half matching up its two Side Edges. Press the fold to create a crease. Unfold and lay it out flat with a Waist Edge on top and the right side facing up. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of the rectangle.

Version C

With right sides facing, line up one raw edge of one of the Top Pieces with the top Waist Edge of the Bottom Piece, matching up one hemmed edge of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom. Pin in place along the top.

Repeat with the second Top Piece on the other side of the crease, making sure the two hemmed edges of the Top Pieces are neatly side-by-side.

Version A and B

Pin the Top to a Bottom Piece in the same manner described above, this time matching up the center seam of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom Piece.

All Versions

Sew along the top pinned edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Fold the entire piece over at the seam so that the right wrongsides are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Piece. Sew down with an edgestitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Repeat with the other raw edge of the Top(s) and the remaining Bottom Piece.

These seams create the Channels for the Ties or Lacing, and this whole piece is now called the Tunic.

Sew the Side Seams

With the wrong sides facing out, fold the Tunic in half so that the raw Side Edges and the raw bottom edges of the two Bottom Pieces meet, taking special care to match up the seam lines of the front and back Channels

Pin along the Side Edges of the Bottom Pieces. Place the pins about 1 1/2 inches from the raw edges so they will be out of the way when you later sew a 1 ¼-inch seam.

At one Side Edge, measure 6 inches up from the Tunic’s bottom edge and mark with a double pin. Repeat on the other Side Edge.

Starting at the Waist Edge, right next to the outer edge of the Top Piece, sew along the pinned edge with a 1 ¼-inch seam allowance being careful not to sew through the Channels. Backstitch at the beginning of the seam.

When you reach the spot marked with a double pin, end the seam with a backstitch. The unsewn space at the bottom of the Tunic will become the Side Slit.

Check your work: When you turn the Tunic right side out, the ends of the Channels should be open and accessible and they should abut at each side seam.

Repeat on the other side.

Make a cut into the seam allowance of one Side Edge: start at the raw edge directly across from the top of the Side Slit and cut diagonally up, ending ¼ inch to the side of the seam line.

Make a small, horizontal snip into the seam allowance at the end of the diagonal cut, making sure not to cut past the seam line. Trim the remaining seam allowance of the Side Edge to 1/4 inch. Repeat on the other side.

Sew along the trimmed ¼-inch seam allowances with a zigzag stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.

Hem

Fold one bottom edge of the Tunic up ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press. Now fold the edge up 1 inch towards the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.

Repeat with the other bottom edge.

Sew the Side Slit

Following the line of the side seam, press open the two flaps at one Side Slit so that their wrong sides face the wrong side of the Tunic.

Fold the raw edges of the two flaps under towards the wrong side so that the raw edges meet the creases. Press flat. Sew the folds down with an edgestitch.

Repeat on the other side.

Sew the Underarms

Lay the Tunic out with the right side facing out. Carefully line up the outer edges of the front and back Top Pieces. Starting from the top seam of the Channel and working up, pin together the front and back for 5 inches.

Using the line of stitching from the hem as a guide, sew along the pinned edge.

Repeat on the other side.

Prepare and Thread the Tie

Version A and B

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, use the 12 mm Bias Tape Maker to create single fold tape from one of the Tie pieces. Fold in half lengthwise, encasing the raw edges, and press.

Sew the long open side closed with an edgestitch.

Tie a small knot at one end.

Repeat with the second Tie piece.

All Versions

Thread the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie onto the bodkin (or safety pin). Push the bodkin into the Channel on one side of the garment. Pull the bodkin all the way through to the other side of the Channel.

Pull the Lacing or Ties so that there is an equal amount coming from both end of the Channel.

Tie a knot in the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie. If you are working with the Lacing, snip off the singed end.

Repeat on the other side of the garment with the second Channel and second Tie or length of Lacing.

Your Tunic is now ready to wear . . . anywhere!

Click here to add a comment

39 Responses to Wear Anywhere Tunic


  1. Helen says:

    Such a lot of work went into these instructions, but it's impossible to know how this would look on a human instead of a hanger.

    • Jill says:

      I tried it on at the store, it’s super cute. I wear a 2-4 and the small fit great.

  2. Erin M says:

    I'm intrigued by this clothing item, but i'd love a photo or two of one on a real person to get a sense for how it looks on someone and whether I'd like it on me. Thanks for all the work put into these tutorials.

  3. Šárka says:

    Thanks for the great tutorial, these looks great! I love the second one, I could wear it to the office :-)

  4. Cait says:

    Thanks for the tutorial. This tunic is adorable! I would love to see it modeled on a person – can you post pics? Thank you!!!!

  5. Lisa says:

    Agreed! Please show photos of the tunic on a person!

  6. Emily says:

    Agreed! This is true for almost all the clothing tutorials posted here – they look great, but I have no idea how they look on a human!

  7. purl bee says:

    To everyone asking for a photo on a person-

    We hear you! We will take a photo of someone wearing it at the beginning of next week and post it to Instagram and Facebook (and update the post with a link to the photo.)

    Thanks everyone for getting in touch with this concern!

    Best-

    Molly

  8. danzfool says:

    Can you clarify the difference between versions A and B? It looks like they have the same neckline, so I can't quite see the difference apart from the fabric, and the fact the patterns run two different directions for the ones you happened to use. Somehow with the boxy T pattern/instructions, it was a little easier to see the difference between the three versions. Excited to try this!

  9. Jessica says:

    Yes, please provide a photo with model. Looks lovely.

  10. Jill says:

    I like the look of this and was just getting started on it, but the measurements aren't adding up for me. Should the bottom pieces be 11 x 27, cut on the fold (so, two rectangles 22×27)? As is, they don't seem nearly big enough given the dimensions of the finished tunic. Not sure if I misread something, thanks!

  11. Laura S. says:

    Do you have the dimensions for the Top piece mixed up with the Skirt piece? The top piece seems much too wide.

  12. Angela says:

    I may be mistaken, but within the post it says that the 11 x 27 inch pieces are the bottom pieces and those that are 22.5 x 24 are the top pieces — is this correct? It seems as though it should be the other way around. I'm actually in the process of cutting my pieces right now, and am going to assume its the inverse!

  13. danzfool says:

    OK, in looking through this more carefully this weekend, I think a few parts of the cutting instructions need correction/clarification. First, the Top and Bottom labels have clearly been reversed, as the skirt pieces are the square ones.

    Secondly, I think the instructions for directional prints need fixing — and the waist vs. side in general I'm still confused about. I've been looking at the medium (?) size — third in the series, second in parens. With the 1 1/4" seam allowance for the skirts, and the 1/2" seam allowance used on the top pieces, I get how 26 1/2" cut width becomes 24" after sewing — and matches the 12+12 you have in the sewn top. However, **for that size, the skirt pieces are slightly wider than they are long, unlike the two smallest sizes.** If I were using a directional fabric and followed the current instructions, I'd actually end up with the pattern for the skirt perpendicular to the pattern on the top.

    In looking at all your sizes more carefully, I *think* you've given the width number first for all the skirt pieces, followed by the length number. The problem is that small sizes are longer than wide (which results in correct positioning for directional prints), while most of the larger sizes are wider than long. Is there any way you could create a layout diagram for directional prints, that includes the proportion? Something like that might clear it up.

    Lastly, I don't quite see how the finished length for what I'm calling a medium will have a finished skirt length of 24". This is a minor point, but if I've done the math right — and correctly identified which edge is which — I think it would end up 23 1/2" long. I'm guessing the difference comes from how the channel for the tie is created, but from the pictures, it looks like the channel is a 1/2" wide (using 1" of the skirt's cut length), but then has 1/4" folded under, so actually 1 1/4" gets used for the waist seam allowance on the skirt piece.

    All that said, thank you so much for posting this! I'm stoked to start sewing it. I think I'll be able to remake a strange quasi-mumu batique garment I found in my grandmother's giveaway pile into this. :)

  14. Anne says:

    The cutout pieces seem to be mislabeled. Two 11×27 are the bottom pieces and the 22.5 x 24 are the top?

  15. Nancy says:

    Are the 'top pieces' and 'bottom pieces' references correct?

    Cut two 11 by 27 (12 by 28, 13 by 29, 14 by 30, 15 by 31)-inch rectangles. These are the Bottom Pieces (the first measurement is the Waist Edge, the second is the Side Edge). If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the side edges.
    Cut two 22 by 24 (24 by 25, 26 by 26, 28 by 27, 30 by 28)-inch rectangles. These are the Top Pieces. If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the long side of the rectangles.

  16. Nancy says:

    I Love this Pattern! Thank~You so much for the detailed Tutorial~ I am going to make a couple of these, because I have paid a lot for them when I was able to find them. These dresses/tunics are simple but sleek. If I have a question while making one I will surely ask~
    Thanks Again!!
    Huggs, Nancy

  17. ekb says:

    Please note: I suspect the pieces you specify to cut out are mis-labeled: the bottom two pieces together should have a waist edge that totals more than 22 to 30".

  18. Carol Durdin says:

    I agree with just about everyone who posted. Why didn't you show it on a human being?

  19. Jennifer says:

    It would be wonderful to see one or all there tunics modeled ! It would give a great visual to us !
    Thank you for even considering

  20. Ramona says:

    Can you check the measurements on the pattern pieces? From what I can tell, I think the Top and Bottom measurements are flip-flopped.

  21. Kate says:

    Perhaps it's late, or perhaps it's pregnancy brain, but is it possible that the cutting instructions are switched for which are the top pieces and which are the bottom?

  22. Kathleen GILROY says:

    I'd like to make this as a maxi. How much more fabric do I need?

  23. purl bee says:

    Hello all asking about the Top and Bottom Pieces –

    Thank you so much for writing in! Yes, you all are correct, the measurements for the Top and Bottom pieces were mislabeled. I am sorry for the oversight! The pattern has now been corrected, and hopefully any confusion in this section has been cleared up!
    Thank you for all of your careful reading!

    -Corinne

  24. purl bee says:

    Hi danzfool –

    Thank you for all your careful reading of the project!

    You were correct, the top and bottom pieces were mislabeled. I have corrected that portion of the pattern.

    Also, I can see your confusion with the instructions for directional fabrics for the Bottom piece. I have changed the wording of that section too. For a directional print, you want to make sure that the print runs parallel with the Side Edge of the Bottom piece (not the long edge).

    As for your earlier question about the different versions, you are correct that Version A and Version B are constructed in the same fashion. The only difference between these two is the direction of the print on the fabric, and therefore a difference in the yardages needed.

    I hope this clears up any confusion!
    -Corinne

  25. purl bee says:

    Hello Kathleen –

    To make this a maxi, additional yardage will depend on the type of fabric you are using. If you are using a fabric similar to the one used in Version B (with a print that runs perpendicular to the selvage) no additional yardage should be needed.
    If you are using the yardage charts for either Version A or Version C, think of how much length you would like to add to the Bottom piece and double it. This is the additional length of fabric you will need to get. For example, if you would like the skirt to measure 20 inches longer than proposed in the pattern, you would need 40 additional inches of fabric, or an additional 1 1/4 yard.

    Please also note that the fabrics used for all three versions are each at least 53 inches wide.

    I hope this helps!
    -Corinne

  26. Jo D says:

    Hello,

    This tunic can so easily be converted to a floor length dress/caftans.

    What a simple, beautiful and elegant garment. I'm sure it will look fantastic on multiple figure type's.

    Thanks for the inspiration!

  27. Jill says:

    Are the cut pieces for the top and bottom labelled correctly, ie. should what you have listed above as top pieces (under cut pieces) really be the bottom pieces and VV? My pieces aren't lining up like in the photos.

    thanks

  28. Barbara Hoepp says:

    Best photo pattern I have ever seen. So thorough, thanks,

  29. purl bee says:

    Hello Jill –

    Thank you for writing in. Yes, the original pattern accidentally had the Top and the Bottom measurements swapped. The pattern has been fixed and the directions for the Cut section should all be accurate now. I am so sorry for the mix-up!

    -Corinne

  30. Lulu says:

    Cutting layout? I am an inexperienced seamstress, but I think I could make this. However I just can't envision how to cut it out. I am making the 40-43" size.

  31. purl bee says:

    For anyone who would like to see this being modeled on a person-

    We have a shot of it being modeled on our Facebook page here:
    https://www.facebook.com/58035888021/photos/a.141980823021.113308.58035888021/10152379815528022/?type=1&theater

    Thanks!

    Molly

  32. Viviane says:

    Wow, these look fantastic, and easy to make as well!
    Do you have any suggestions how to make these maternity-fit as well?
    I was thinking about inserting an elastic at the waist instead (or on top?) of the ribbons, and have the front piece slightly longer to cover up the belly and align with the back seam. What do you think?
    Because, airy and elegant is right what i need!

    • Corinne from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Viviane –
      All of your suggestions for turning this into a maternity garment sound great! This would make a lovely (and very comfortable!) maternity dress.
      Depending how far along you are, and how much extra room you need in the body, you could also consider cutting the front of the Tunic Bottom slightly wider. Then, when sewing the Bottom front to the Top pieces, add some gathers at the center Waist Edge so that the Side Edges of the two sections match up. This would give a little more room for a growing belly in the skirt front.
      I hope this helps – and congratulations!
      -Corinne

  33. Carole says:

    My friends and I worked on this pattern for many hours, we thought it would be easy, ha ha ha. we could not figure out how to put together the tie with the casing. I through the finished project away, so disappointing.

    • Corinne from the Purl Bee says:

      Hi Carole –

      I am sorry you had such a hard time with the Tunic pattern. We strive to make all of our patterns as clear and easy to follow as possible.

      If you ever have trouble again with any of our patterns please feel free to contact us here in the comments section or to email our comment moderator directly (Molly AT purls oho DOT com) and we will be happy to help!

      Thanks!
      -Corinne

  34. Melissa says:

    Perfect pattern. Just finished making mine and I’m so impressed by how simply elegant it is. As always, thanks so much for all the beautiful work you all do!

  35. Erin says:

    I love this pattern, and came back to it looking for the link to the photos you were going to add to this post of it on an actual person, but still don’t see them. Am I missing something?

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