Whit's Knits: Baby Bloomers

These cotton bloomers are wonderful, not only for their vintage style, but also for the flexibility of the fit. The ribbing and elastic waistband allow the garment to grow with the child, useful first as bloomers over diapers and then later as regular shorts.

These are quick and easy to knit. Almost no seaming! I think I've found my new baby gift standby!

 

Materials

 

• 5 balls of Rowan's Cotton Glace, 2 in the main color and 1 of each contrast color. I used for the main color, Ecru #725, and for the contrast colors, Buttercup #825, Crystal #830, and Pier #809.
• A 12 inch US#1 circular needle (or a set of US#1 double pointed needles)
  
• A 12 inch US#3 circular needle (or a set of US#3 double pointed needles)
  
• A 16 inch US#1 circular needle
• A 16 inch US#3 circular needle
• About 2 feet of 1/2 inch wide elastic
• Thread and needle or a sewing machine
• 1 coordinating button (purely decorative, so it can be any size or you can skip it)
  

The Pattern

 

Gauge

10 stitches = 1 inch in unstretched 1 x 1 rib with larger needle

Finished Size

To fit baby-toddler: 18 inches around hips, unstretched, and adjustable elastic waist. 

1 x 1 Rib

The entire pattern is knit in a 1 x 1 rib:

*K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

The Legs

With Color A and the US #1, 12 inch circular needle, cast on 80 stitches.

Place marker, and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.

Work 5 rounds of 1 x 1 rib.

Changing to US #3, 12 inch circular needle, work 3 rounds of 1 x 1 rib.

With Color B, work 2 rounds of 1 x 1 rib.

With Color A, work 2 rounds of 1 x 1 rib.

With Color B, work 1 round of 1 x 1 rib.

Cut the tails and put all the stitches on holders or a spare circular needle.

Make another leg the same way, except do not cut Color B's tail at the end. Leave the second leg on the US #3, 12 inch needle.

 

Joining the Legs

Using a Cable Cast On, cast 10 stitches on to the second leg. (Please check out our new Cable Cast-on Tutorial if you need some help.)

Place a marker, and with the same needle that is holding the 10 cast on stitches, work the 1 x 1 rib around the 80 stitches of the first leg.

 

All 170 stitches will now be on the same needle.

 

Again, using a Cable Cast On, cast 10 stitches on to the right needle. And with the right side facing you, join the legs by knitting the first stitch of the second leg.

Continue the 1 x 1 rib to the marker. You should have 180 stitches total.

Knitting the Body

Changing to the 16 inch US #3 needle, work the 1 x 1 rib in the following stripe pattern (starting from the bottom):

Note: I carried the cream color up the inside of the bloomers and the yellow from the first stripe to the second, but, otherwise, I cut the tails of each color when I finished its stripe.

Repeat the whole pattern 1 more time, and then work three more rounds with Color A.

The Waistband

Changing to the 16 inch US #1 needle, work 8 rounds of the 1 x 1 rib.

Purl 1 round.

Work 8 more rounds of the 1 x 1 rib. Cut a 36 inch tail. 

Preparing the Elastic

Cut the elastic so it is 18 inches long.

Mark 1 inch from the end of the elastic and fold the elastic in half so one end overlaps the other to the 1 inch mark. (Make sure the elastic isn't twisted!) Pin it in this position. 

By hand or with a sewing machine, sew a rectangle around the edges of the overlap. 

 

Hemming the Waistband

Thread a tapestry needle onto the long tail of yarn from the waistband. Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch of the knitting needle as if to purl.

Remove the stitch from the knitting needle and pull the yarn fairly tight.

Arrange the elastic band so that it is running along the inside of the waistband. Then, sew under the purl bump that is fourth from the Color B round. Make sure it is also directly in line of the stitch you just removed from the knitting needle. Pull tight.

Remove a stitch from the knitting needle again.

And now sew under the knit stitch that is fourth from the Color B round and is also directly in line of the stitch you just removed from the knitting needle. Pull tight.

 

Repeat these step until you have removed all the stitches from the knitting needle. Be careful to always bring the yarn over the elastic so that it is simultaneously getting sewn into the hem.  

 

Finishing

To sew the crotch closed, thread a tail from edge of the opening onto a tapestry needle. Sew under the knit stitch that is right below the cast on edge.

Sew under the knit stitch directly across from that one. 

Then, crossing to the other side, sew under the next purl bump right below the cast on edge.

 

Sew under the purl bump across from that one, and continue back and forth across the whole opening.

Use tails to sew up any holes that may be left at the corners of the opening.

 

Sew in all the tails that remain. And finally, attach the button to the front of the waistband. (I like the button, in part, because it ensures that the "jog" of the striping will always be worn to the back.)

 

Comments

[Mary Beth Klatt]

my only concern with the button is that the baby could pull it off and put it in his mouth....otherwise, lovely project!

[Pumpkin Girl]

Could a relative newby to sewing make these? They look easy, but I just want to make sure I won't be over my head!

[Anna Nikolaus]

These shorts are the cutest things.
I will trying knitting them for my daughter.

Thanks Purl Bee for all your creative ideas!

[purl bee]

Hi Pumpkin Girl,
These shorts are knit rather that sewn. A newbie to knitting could make them but will require some patience and attention to detail. If you're in NYC feel free to stop by our shop for guidance if you need it.
Good luck!

[athena]

hi! this pattern is cute! is the gauge knit flat or in the round? :-)

[Jenna]

One suggestion, substitute a wool or cashmere yarn and you could use this as a water resistant cover for cloth diapers (the natural lanolin will repel moisture)!

[Deborah]

Awesome! I've been a long-time subscriber to Purl Bee but time constraints never allowed me to check out your free patterns (I know, shame on me!). But kudos to whomever has articulately outlined the instructions and inserted super sharp and clear instructional visuals. These are the best! And trust me, I'll be more mindful from now on to check out the patterns.

SUGGESTION FOR MARY BETH KLATT: Instead of using a button, perhaps knit a bobble. It will be "baby safe" and can be most attractive if you knit it with an intermixture of all three colors.

[Elena]

I believe the gauge is incorrect-it says 10 stiches per inch? Very cute project, Would love to make one for my grandson.

[purl bee]

Hi Elena,
The gauge is correct although it does seem like a lot of stitches! The reason its 10 stitches per inch is that it is an un-streched rib stitch. Thanks for your comment!

[Samantha]

I love this! I'll have to run to the yarn store now. My husband won't be pleased I found this, but Oh well!! Thanks for posting this pattern. Do you mind if I link your page in my blog?
Sam

[Kathie]

This looks great, and easy to adapt for other sizes. My 2-mo old nephew is still too small for 0-3 mo clothes, and has been stuck in onesie type outfits, but now I can make him some quick and easy shorts. Thanks so much!

[Kathleen Wagner]

These are so much easier when knitted from the waist down. The waistband casing is most conveniently made in Stockinette Stitch from what would ordinarily be a rather loose and untidy cast-on of backward loops. Knit round for the proper depth (about an inch), one round of purl for turning, knit the same number of rounds, and then join, picking up each cast-on loop to be knitted together with its corresponding stitch. Sometimes I put the elastic in just as I'm finishing the casing, and sometimes I put a pair of buttonholes about an inch apart at the outside front of the waist and add a drawstring later. After the casing is finished it would be best to increase (K3 M1 all around should be enough) to account for the pull of the K1 P1 rib. (I do mine in all-stockinette, which accommodates the increasing and decreasing more neatly.) The shaping for the crotch is also easier and more integral from the top down, and the shorts (or pants) can be knitted seamlessly, with just three or four stitches to be woven together where you divide for the legs. I can't bring myself to use Rowan Glace for something a baby is inevitably going to poop on (I've brought up five of them and have no rosy illusions about infants and their clothing), so I use plain sturdy dishcloth cotton and it works beautifully. The pants get softer with every wash and take on a lovely slight fading like old favorite jeans.