Daisy Stitch Hand Warmers: Pattern
Gauge
6 stitches = 1 inch in Daisy Stitch pattern with larger needles
5 stitchess = 1 inch in stockinette stitch with larger needles
Finished Size
7 inch circumference (fits most women)
Pattern
With color A and #7 needles, cast on 40 stitches.
Distrubute the stitches onto 3 needles and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K1, P1, rep from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from the beginning.
Next round: With color B and #8 needles, knit.
Next round: *[K3tog, yo, k3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, rep from * to end of round.
Here is a breakdown of [K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, the core of the Daisy Stitch:
- K3tog: Put the right needle into the next 3 stitches. Knit like usual, except do not finish the knit, instead allow the stitches to remain on the left needle.
- YO: Bring the yarn forward between the 2 needles.
- K3tog: Put the right needle back into the same 3 st. Knit, and, this time, finish the stitch by dropping the 3 stitches from the left needle.
- Try to keep the 3 new stitches in order on the right needle, ie make sure that the yo is the middle stitch.
Next round: With color C, knit for 1 round.
Next round: Slip 1, P1, *[K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, repeat from * until 2 st left, slip first stitch from beginning of round onto the needle that has 2 st left on it (so that now there are 3 st on the left needle), [K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st.
Slip the last stitch from right needle back to the left needle so that it is the first stitch of the next round (the first stitch of the round is worked twice: once as the last stitch of the previous round and once as the beginning stitch of the next round).
Starting with color D, repeat the last 4 rounds. Change colors every 2 rounds making sure to carry the yarns you're not using up the inside of the hand warmer by catching them between the working yarn and the needle.
In this picture the pink yarn is catching the white and rust yarns as it makes its first K3tog of the round.
Make 16 and a half stripes, finishing with a knit round of color C.
Next round: *[K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, repeat from * 4 times (16 st). Cut the color C yarn, leaving an 18 inch tail. With the scrap yarn, knit 8 st. Join a new strand of color C and *[K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, repeat from * to end of round. (The scrap yarn is basically holding stitches that will later become the thumb hole.)
Continue to make Daisy Stitch stripes as before, starting with a knit round of color D. Make 5 stripes; ending with color B.
Change to color A and #7 needles.
Knit 1 round.
Next round: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the last round until ribbing measures a half an inch.
Bind off in rib pattern.
Knitting the Thumb
With a #7 needle pick up the 8 st below the scrap yarn. Weave the needle over and under every other stitch so that you're picking up the right side of each stitch.
With another #7 needle, do the same thing for the 8 st above the scrap yarn. These stitches are a little trickier to see. Pick up (from the right) 1 from the K3tog cluster, 1 purl, 3 from a K3tog, 1 purl, and 2 from a K3tog.
With a #8 needle and the 18 inch tail of color C, work across the bottom 8 st as follows: *[K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, repeat from * 1 more time.
Next round: With a #8 needle and color B, start at the first stitch of the bottom needle (the one holding the color C stitches just worked) and knit 7. With another #8 needle, K1, pick up 2 st between the 2 needles, K4. With another #8 needle, K4, pick up 2 st. (7 st on first needle, 7 st on second needle, 6 st on third needle, ready to work in the round.)
Next round: Slip 1, P1, *[K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, repeat from * until 2 st left, slip first stitch from beginning of round onto the needle that has 2 st left on it (so that now there are 3 st on the left needle), [K3tog, yo, K3tog] into the same 3 st. Slip the last stitch from the right needle to the left needle.
Next round: With color A and #7 needle, knit.
Next round: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the last round until ribbing measures a half an inch. Bind off.
Weave in all the ends and block if you want.
Free your fingers!
December 27, 2007
Reader Comments (47)
I must try harder I suppose.
Thanks very much for putting the pattern up.
Love the site and thanks for the pattern!
what a mess. The pattern is easy enough to follow and the stitch turns out right, but the colors I used (turquoise, green, and wheat) weren't flattering to it. Certainly would stick with lighter tones.
The stitch pattern comes from Barbara Walker's Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns where she gives flat knitting instructions. She casts on a multiple of 4 plus 1. Then knits every right side and does the daisy stitch as a "p3tog, yo, purl the same 3 sts tog again". For row 2, she knits 1 at each end, and for row 4 she k1,p1,k1, daisy stitch to last 3, k1, p1, k1. Thanks for your interest! Good luck! - Whitney
Yes, if you cast on a multiple of 4 you're all set to re-work the pattern for any size yarn you want! -Whitney
The ribbing on the ends prevents the knitting from curling up.
I'm not sure what you mean by "flipped"? Would it help to know that when you knit in the round the right side of the work is always facing you? You knit in a continuous spiral with on round flowing into the next.
Or, maybe your question has to do with how you're holding the work. As you knit the ribbing should be at the bottom and the knitting grows up - I have seen people knit "upside down" in the round, so maybe that is where the confusion lies. Please let me know if I haven't answered your question! - Whitney
I have never seen this stitch before, and it is lovely.
I am knitting hot water bottles (in the round) at the moment, for friends and family. We are experiencing an exceptionally cold winter here in England, and many people are re-discovering this old-fashioned favourite.
I have been using the covers as 'samplers' to try out new stitches, and I will certainly try daisy stitch. (Although it looks complicated, and I may just do a few 'stripes'; your tutorial is great, though).
This is one of the prettiest stitches I've ever seen.
Many thanks,
Alison
Thanks.
On round two you begin by slipping 1 stitch, then purl one stitch, then work the cluster stitch. You will continue to purl 1 stitch after every cluster, but you will finish the round with the cluster stitch, there is no purl stitch at the end of the round.
Hope this helps, let us know if you would like further clarification!
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad that I understood correctly. However, I am now somewhat confused further with regards to Round 2 of the daisy stitch. Written in the main pattern above, round 2 reads as:
"*[K3tog, yo, k3tog] into the same 3 st, P1, rep from * to end of round."
Furthermore in your response, you advise for round 2 I should begin with slip 1 and a p1. I was under the impression that was the starting point for round 4?
Yours, waiting patiently, as I have completed the cuff lol
Okay, looks like I was looking at the wrong row...! If the row you're wondering about is the row you quoted above, then yes, purl after every cluster stitch. The directions I gave above are for the following cluster row (it looks like there is a row of all knitting in between).... Let me know if this is still confusing and I'll have Whitney check out your question directly.
Best wishes! Joelle
Thanks again and God Bless,
Ruth
You're totally right! I can't believe no one has pointed this out! I should have said to put the RIGHT needle back into the three stitches - I'll change it right now!
It sounds like knitting may be the perfect new hobby for you!
Thank you -
Whitney
Lovely pattern. I have a blog in Spanish, would you mind if I translated it into Spanish? You can post the translation in your blog, or in mine, whichever you prefer.
Thanks.
The link is going to the wrong place. So I'll fix it above, and in the meantime, you can find the yarn here:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/yarndetail/5009
I have one question though, when I've knit all the way up and get to the "16 and a half stripes, finishing in color C," where does the half come in? Am I to just knit half a round in daisy and then knit one whole round starting from the end of the half?
Thanks!
Thanks for reading :D
Of course its okay! Give it a try with the size 6's if you're a somewhat loose knitter. Just keep in mind that this pattern is written for knitting in the round so you'll have to change this row:
Next round: With color C, knit for 1 round.
This will be your wrong side row, and so instead of knitting it you should purl.
You might find a few other details that you'll have to change, but this is the main one.
Good luck!
thxs
I LOVE these gloves and have been wanting to make them for the past year. I finally got the materials to make them for my cousin but am having the hardest time with the three double pointed needles. I'm new to knitting so they are quite awkward for me. I've gotten so frustrated with the dpns that I've tried to look up other fingerless glove patterns but there aren't any that are as cute as these.
The daisy stitch gloves are the only ones that I want. =)
I have seen in other comments that it is possible to do it flat - with two normal needles- but I am afraid I will not recognize what changes have to be made to the pattern and I'll end up screwing it up. Is it possible that this could be done with circular needles? Those are also for working in the round, right? Or is it for something completely different. Thanks so much for helping out a newbie!
Thanks,
Vanessa
Here is a link to our tutorial on using double pointed needles:
http://www.purlbee.com/double-pointed-needles-tutoria/
It might be helpful for you to do some practicing on the dpns before you start working on the pattern. They aren't difficult to use once you get the concept.
Hope this helps!
We're so happy it worked out! Good luck!
xo