Step 1: Knitting the Bag

With larger needles, cast on 41 stitches.

Rows 1 and 3:  Purl.
Row 2:  K1, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4:  *Ssk, yo, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat Rows 1 - 4 until fabric measures approximately 24 inches, or twice desired length of the finished bag.

Bind off loosely.

Comments

[Anne]

Would you recommend wool yarn, or not? I have quite a stash of wool yarn! Thanks.

[Emily]

I made this bag recently and as I was reading the directions, I thought... only 12 inches? That doesn't seem big enough, so I kept knitting. WOW! This bag really stretches! I took it to the market and a couple of apples stretched it down to my knees! :-) I learned my lesson for sure. Now I use the bag to carry all the summertime park supplies when I take the kids to the park. It is perfect for that. I am knitting a new, smaller bag for the market. Thanks!

[Kelly]

I have a question about the pattern. I don't understand how the number of stitches can work out...can you clarify for me? You start with 41 stitches. Then you purl a row, ending again with 41 stitches. Then, you proceed with row 2. You knit the first stitch, leaving 40 stitches on the left needle. Then you yarn over and knit 2 together until the end...which means you work in sets of 3 stitches (you take 3 stitches from the left and through increasing and decreasing, you put 3 stitches on the right needle). Well, my problem is: 3 doesn't go into 40 evenly. You'll have one stitch left over. Is there something I'm missing? Am I supposed to yarn over that last stitch? According to the math in my head, it will only work properly if I have 40 or 43 stitches, not 41. I'm sure I'm just missing something. PLEASE HELP!!

[purl bee]

Hi Kelly,
Since you're adding them, the yarn-over stitches should not be counted. You're really working in sets of 2, hence the even number (after knitting the first stitch). Think of it this way, each yarn over adds a new stitch, but the k2tog takes one away, so when you're through with this row, you will still have 41 stitches.
Hope this helps!

[Kelly]

Okay, let me try to reword what I'm trying to say. I don't think you quite understood. When I start row 2, I have 41 on the left. I knit one, and have 40 on the left. I yo, k2tog and have 37 on the left. Then 34, 31, 28, 25, 22, 19, 16, 13, 10, 7, 4, 1 on the left. (You use 3 stitches on the left with each repetition of yo, k2tog.) What are you supposed to do with that last stitch? You said before that "you're really working in sets of 2, hence the even number." I don't understand how you can be working in even numbers when a yo, k2tog requires 3 stitches. Maybe if you could walk me through what you do exactly, I could get better clarity. Thanks.

[purl bee]

Hi Kelly,
The point I was trying to make is that you aren't using 3 stitches for every set of yo k2tog, you are only using 2 stitches. I guess I didn't explain it clearly enough so let me try again. When you start row two, you have 41 stitches, you knit 1 so you have 40 remaining. Then, you yarn-over which does not count as one of the stitches on the left needle because you are adding it onto the right needle without doing anything to the stitches on the left needle, then you k2tog and have 38 remaining. Yarn over again and k2tog and you have 36 remaining. Does that help? I'm wondering if you are assuming that when you do a yarn over that you are also knitting a stitch? When you yarn over all you are doing is wrapping the working yarn around the right needle. Please let me know if you need more help.

[Kelly]

Hallelujah! Yes, that's exactly it. I thought a yarn over included knitting a stitch afterwards. Thank you so much for clearing this up for me! I will get started on this wonderful bag right away! And thanks for all your quick responses!

[Kim]

Does this pattern include the straps?

[purl bee]

Hi Kim,
Yes it does!
If you'd like to see the whole pattern (you've come into the middle of it) please click here:
http://purlbee.squarespace.com/elisa-nest-tote/
Enjoy

[ashley]

So I have a question about row 4. As I was knitting I was losing a stitch after row 4. It seems to me that if you Ssk,yo that you lose a stitch that first stitch. Does that even make sense? Shouldn't you have to yo before your first Ssk? Or do you yo before that last k1? I am new to knitting this year so forgive me if I am missing something here. Any help would be appreciated.

[purl bee]

Hi Ashley,
There is a yarn over right before the last k1 which will keep you from losing stitches. This is a common issue when people first learn about lace and yarn overs so don't feel alone!
Hope this helps.

[ashley]

I was just getting on to tell you I finally figured it out. thanks for the help. I am loving this bag so far. I just hope I don't have to pull it apart anymore.

[Michelene]

I am confused about how slip, slip, knit can be a decrease, and in row 4 how you can't get back to the original number of stitches if you don't pass any slip stitches over. Do you have to pass just one stitch over and if so which one? I look forward to your help as I am keen to get this started.

[purl bee]

Hi Michelene,
SSK, or slip, slip, knit is a decrease. You slip each of the two stitches individually as if to knit, then knit them together by slipping the left needle into the front of them and knitting them together. Here is a link to our tutorial for SSK:
http://www.purlbee.com/decrease-tutorial/

Hope this solves your question!

[Michelene]

Many thanks for your prompt reply.

[Rene]

It would be lovely if this pattern actually told us which size needles to use where. A bit ridiculous for it to not say that.

[purl bee]

Hi Rene,
It looks like you came in on the middle of the pattern. You can find the complete pattern, including materials, needles etc at this link:
http://www.purlbee.com/elisa-nest-tote/

[Rene]

Thank you, but that doesn't tell me where to use the larger needles and where to use the smaller needles. There should be something about it in the pattern itself.

[purl bee]

Hi again Rene,
I can't believe no one has ever pointed that out to us! I'll update the pattern now. In the meantime, the size 9's are for the main part of the bag and the size 3's are for the applied i-cord.
thanks
Joelle

[Charlotte]

This is perfect!! I had this almost sisal like yarn lying around, really tough and course, never knew what to do with it. This pattern will make a very sturdy tote with that yarn!
Can't wait to start!!!!

[Holly]

Hi, great pattern! I´m almost finished, but I just have a question. When I have to start crocheting to join the edges together, which edges exactly does it mean? I knitted it in the round, as it said to do, so there are no ends which need to be stitched together to form the bag. Is it just making the bag smaller at the top than at the bottom? Please help as I am pretty confused as to where I need to crochet this together.

I will probably just add a drawstring in the meanwhile and take the advice you will hopefully give me on the next try. :)

[purlbee]

Hi Holly,

The pattern is written for knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. The good news is that you can skip the step of crocheting the edges together and just get right started on the Attached I-Cord Handles!

Thanks for your question!
Whitney

[Holly]

Well, now it all makes sense! LOL!