Mari's Bias Tape Purse with Zipper

I first started making little zipper bags when I got my sewing machine two years ago.  I use them for everything - notions, pens, glasses.  I didn't line these bags because they were so small, so eventually the seams would start to fray.  That is, until I saw my first Japanese craft book!  In Japanese crafting, bias tape is often used to cover the seams of bags to prevent them from fraying, and for looks as well.  Because the raw edges are protected, there is no need for a lining. 

Depending on the size of the project, I cut my bias tape straight or on the bias.  With this small pouch, cutting the tape straight is the most efficient way.  This is a quick, easy project that anyone can make, even if you're intimidated by both zippers and bias tape.

Enjoy! -- Mari 

Materials and Notes

I love all of the new Kokka fabric we got in last month, and many of the fabrics have small motifs that work well with this project.  I chose (from the top) Mini Animals in Green Goldfish, Ume Komachi in Blue Red Blossoms and Measuring Tape in Black. 

 
MATERIALS - for one pouch

fabric - 1/4 yard

7" all purpose zipper

contrasting or coordinating thread

25 mm bias tape maker

straight pins 

Prepare Fabrics, Cut and Prep Zipper

Wash, dry and press fabric.  If you do this before you sew it up, you'll be able to throw your finished zippered purse in the wash without worrying about it.

Cut two 8 1/2 inch x 4 inch pieces of fabric.  Press a 1/4 fold along one long edge of each piece of fabric.  This is where the zipper will be sewn in.

 

Pin one side of the zipper (right side up) onto the pressed edge of one of the pieces of fabric. 

 

Attach the Zipper

Using your zipper foot, slowly sew along the zipper.

If you don't have a zipper foot, you can use your regular foot, as shown below.  After you pin the fabric to the zipper, open the zipper halfway.  Sew about 1/8" away from the zipper.

When you reach the zipper pull, put the needle in the "down" position and lift up the foot.  Move the zipper pull to the top of the zipper.  Continue sewing to the end of the zipper.

Repeat for the other side of the zipper. 

When you are done, open out the pouch and cut out 1/2" squares from each corner of the pouch.  This will reduce bulk in the corners when the pouch is complete.

Make Bias Tape and Attach

Cut two 2 inch by 9 inch strips from the remaining fabric and create bias tape.  One of the strips will be cut in half for the sides of the pouch, and the second strip will be used for the bottom of the pouch.

To use a bias tape maker, insert the strip right side down into the tool as shown below. Pull the tool across the strip so that the fabric comes out at the small end with the edges turned in.  Press the tape with a hot iron as it comes out. If you need help getting the fabric to come out of the small end of the tool, you can move it along with a pin by inserting the pin into the opening in the plastic part of the tool.

For the sides, cut a piece of bias tape that covers the bottom of the zipper to the cut corner of the pouch, plus 1/2" (this will be about 3 1/2").  Open both ends of the tape and fold under 1/4".  This will create a non-fray edge for the bias seam.  Press both ends closed.

Fold the pouch in half, right sides together.  Pin the bias tape along one edge of the pouch, making sure to enclose both pieces of the pouch. 

Sew the bias tape down, taking your time.  Make sure to have the top edge of the tape not too far up near the zipper, or else the zipper will hit it.  Repeat with the other side. 

Before you sew the bottom up, make sure to open the zipper or else you'll end up with a permanently closed bag!  Use the second piece of bias tape and sew the bottom up the same way you did the sides.  The final touch is to sew along the cut corners of the pouch to reinforce the corners.  Sew along the bottom of the side bias tape binding (as close to the edge as possible), put the needle into the "down" position, rotate the fabric, and sew along the side of the bottom bias tape.

Turn your bag right side out.  It's complete!  When you look inside, your bias taped sides and bottom should overlap each other.

Enjoy!

Fill your bag up with sewing notions, knitting notions, or whatever you like!

P.S. If you're wondering where to find the lovely pink fabric in the background, its "Pink Flowers" from Kokka's Ume Komachi Collection.