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« Rolled Hem Handkerchiefs: Materials | Main
Tuesday
03Jun2008

Rolled Hem Handkerchiefs: The Pattern

hankiescutfab.jpg

Cut Fabric

Square up your fabric and then cut to 12.5 inch x 12.5 inch squares.  If you need help with this step, please see our Rotary Cutter Tutorial

The finished handkerchief size is approximately 12-inches square.

 

How-To

 

hankiesstitches.jpg

We chose to sew some of our hankies with contrasting thread for a more fun look (as shown above and throughout these examples). Others we made with thread that matched the ground of the fabric to give a more subtle look.  

Keep in mind that when you start this project that the first one might feel a bit awkward, but don't be discouraged. As you continue you'll get the hang of it!

 

Roll Edge


hankiesrolledge.jpg

Hold the fabric with the wrong side facing you. Roll the edge of the right side of the fabric towards you between your moistened thumb and index finger.  (You can just lick your finger as if to turn a page, but if this is unappealing to you just summon your inner bank teller and have a wet sponge at hand to moisten your finger.) Roll approximately 1/4-inch of fabric.  Be sure that its tight enough so that it feels secure and also so it won't reveal itself after the hanky has been washed several times.

 

Create Hem

Thread your needle and tie a small knot at the end.  You can make the thread long enough to go around the entire hanky so that you don't have to deal with a lot of knots which means using a piece of thread that is at least 55-inches long, or you can use several lengths that are around 18-inches long.  Do whatever is easiest for you.


hankiesplaceneedle1.jpg

Place the needle into the end of the rolled edge as shown above and come out about 1/2-inch away to make the first stitch. Pull needle through.

hankiesfirststitch.jpg
Catch approximately 1/16-inch (or 3 or 4 threads-worth) of the body of the fabric just where the roll meets the fabric.  Pull needle through.

hankies2ndstitch.jpg

Insert the needle back into the roll a few threads to the left of where you previously came out as shown above.

hankiesnextstitch.jpg

Run the needle through the roll for approximately 1/2-inch.  Bring the needle back out of the roll and again catch approximately 1/16-inch of the fabric.  (If you are using a contrasting thread and want the stitch to become part of the decoration on the right side of the hanky, you can make the stitch length slightly longer.  When using a matching thread you may choose to make the stitches as small as possible.) 


Continue in this way along the entire length of one side of the hanky.  Stop approximately 1/2-inch before the end.  To make the corner, roll the perpendicular side of the hanky just as you did the first side.  This time you will have the roll of the first side contend with, but if you roll it tight it will make a neat edge.  Stitch the rolled corner down using the same stitch technique that you used above.

When you come to the last corner, secure the thread by making a small knot and popping it into the inside of the hem then repeat. You won't want the hanky to come unraveled while your dad is in the middle of using it!

hankfandb.jpg 

Reader Comments (14)

Thank you very much for posting this most interesting tutorial. I find the directions and accompanying photos most helpful - as far as they go. Unfortunately, the corner sounds like the trickiest part of the process. Could you possibly elaborate on that part of the instructions and perhaps include a photo? For example, do the rolled edges abut each other or overlap? How best can one “anchor” the corner so it bears up under repeated washings?
Thank you!
June 4, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterfujifunmum
Thank you for this great tutorial! I thought of making some handkerchiefs for my Dad at Xmas time but didn't get around to it. My Dad's birthday and Father's Day are in the spring and I always try to come up with creative gifts as he has most everything he needs. This will be great! I love the fabrics you chose - fun! Thank you again!
June 5, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterNikki
I love the look of these, and I'm so much more apt to try hand-sewing than machine sewing! These are a great idea for Father's day so I just may have my hand at it!
June 5, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTracy
I feel comfortable in this crowd admitting this looks like fun. Are there tips for working with this hem on silk? I have a scarf I'm in nervous about repairing.
June 5, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCristina
What a great gift for my Dad. He loves hankies and will love this even more seeing it's hand made by me! Thank you for the great tutorial!
June 10, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSue Irzyk
I am going to make some of these for my papa! I enjoy looking at you site for ideas... I have also made some of the Herringbone Handkerchiefs, I like them a lot! I think that I will make some of those for my friends!
Thanks!
Amelia
June 11, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAmelia M.
These were a lot of fun. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I can't wait to make some more! Pics posted on my blog: http://kundhicreative.com/lincolnblog/?p=417
June 13, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterjulie
What an excellent tutorial! These look great.
June 13, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMaggie Ann
What a great tutorial! Hand sewing usually freaks me out, and I can never make it happen just right. But the step by step photos are awesome, and I now have confidence that I can give this a try. My husband is probably the only man under 60 that actually uses a hankie...not just for looks...
Thank you!
July 8, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSara
Thanks for this tutorial! I made a bunch of handkerchiefs for my brother's birthday - he may be the only man under 50 to still use them (LA heat makes his bald head shiny and sweaty :) ). Pictures can be seen here: http://jenhewett.blogspot.com/2008/07/handmade-handkerchiefs.html
July 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer
just a few months back i was googling to try and find out how to hand-hem handkerchief - and came up with nothing! here you are -- with my answer in full color. thank you so much!
after a couple days of working on these, i will say that my stitching got straighter and the hems look mucho better once i gave in and drew a line to follow (for the stitches just below the roll).
September 5, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterbo betsy
Oh, my father needs some of these for Christmas, and maybe my son, too. Thanks for the great tutorial.
October 16, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterHeather
This is exactly what I was looking for! We just figured out that even using the cheapest paper tissues available, that's at least two cents a blow, and for my guy, four cents. Plus, they aren't recyclable. Even factoring in the cost of laundering, cloth is the way to go. Here's my ecological and economical tip: for everyday (not gifts), recycle your old 100% cotton bedsheets into handkerchiefs: they are already soft from laundering and the high threadcount material is good quality fabric.

BTW, I thought exactly the same as fujifunmum about the corner stitching and then I realized the photo of the backs of the handkerchiefs shows the corners quite nicely... just zoom in with your browser for more detail.

Many thanks for this tutorial as well as the directions for safe use of the rotary cutter.
December 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterLili
Re: Corners - If you sew two opposite sides and then do the remaining two sides you will get nice corners
Very nice tutorial - thanks!
March 31, 2009 | Unregistered Commentercindylou

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