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« Sullivan Street Bolero: Materials | Main
Friday
22Feb2008

Sullivan Street Bolero: The Pattern

 doneandalone.jpg

Note: Although the photography greatly exaggerates the actual color difference between skeins, it does exist. To me the subtle shifts in color are part of the beauty and charm of hand dyed yarns. If you find it uncharming, be sure to alternate skeins as you knit (ie knit two rows with one skein and then two rows with another so that they blend together.)

Gauge

5 stitches = 1 inch with US #7 needle in 2x2 rib pattern 

4 1/2 stitches = 1 inch with US #7 needle in stockinette stitch 

Finished Size

Fits 36 inch - 42 inch chest  

Knitting the Bottom Edge

With US #7 needle, cast on 90 stitches.

Row 1: Knit through the front and back loop (kfb), k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, k1, kfb. (92 stitches)

Row 2: Kfb, work in the 2 x 2 rib pattern, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches, to the last stitch, kfb. (94 stitches)

Rows 3 - 20: Repeat Row 2. (18 times) (130 stitches)

bottomedge.jpg

Knitting the Right Front

Row 1 (right side): Kfb, k1, *p2, k2, rep from * 5 more times, p2, slip slip knit (ssk), place a marker (26 stitches on right needle). Turn the work to start knitting back across the 26 stitches just knit. (Note: You will only be working on these stitches for this section of the pattern.)

Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.

Row 3: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 2 stitches before marker, ssk. (26 stitches)

Row 4: Work in rib pattern.

Row 5: Kfb, work in rib pattern to marker. (27 stitches)

Row 6: Work in rib pattern.

Rows 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (29 stitches)

Row 15: Work in rib pattern.

Row 16: Work in rib pattern.

Row 17: Kfb, work in rib pattern to marker. (30 stitches)

Row 18-24: Work in rib pattern.

Just to check in, at this point the right front measures about 4.25 inches from beginning of armhole and looks like this:

armholemeasure3.jpg
Row 25: K2tog, work in rib pattern to marker. (29 stitches)

Row 26-28: Work in rib pattern.

Row 29: K2tog, work in rib pattern to marker. (28 stitches)

Row 30: Work in rib pattern.

Row 31: Work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb. (29 stitches)

Row 32: Work in rib pattern.

Row 33-40: Repeat Rows 29-32 (2 times). (29 stitches)

Row 41: K2tog, work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb. (29 stitches)

Put these 29 stitches on a holder. Cut the yarn.

rightfrontonholder2.jpg

Knitting the Back

Start with new yarn on the right side of the back, at the right end:

wheretostart2.jpg
Row 1 (right side): Working in the rib pattern, bind off 11 stitches, *p2, k2, repeat from * 12 more times, p2, ssk, place a marker (56 stitches on the right needle and 36 stitches on the left needle). Turn the work to start knitting back across the 56 stitches just knit. (Note: You will only be working on these stitches for this section of the pattern.)

Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.

Row 3: K2tog, work in rib pattern to 2 stitches before marker, ssk. (54 stitches)

Row 4-6: Work in rib pattern.

Rows 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (50 stitches)

Rows 15-30: Work in rib pattern.

Row 31: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb.(52 stitches)

Rows 32-34: Work in rib pattern.

Row 35-38: Repeat Rows 31-34 (1 time). (54 stitches)

Row 39: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 1 st before marker, kfb. (56 stitches)

Row 40: Work in rib pattern.

Row 41: Repeat Row 39. (58 stitches)

Place these 58 stitches onto stitch holders, and cut the yarn.

backdone2.jpg

Knitting the Left Front

Start with new yarn on the right side of the left front:

wheretostartleft.jpg

Row 1 (right side): Working in the rib pattern, bind off 11 stitches, work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (26 stitches)

Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.

Row 3: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (26 stitches)

Row 4: Work in rib pattern.

Row 5: Work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (27 stitches)

Row 6: Work in rib pattern.

Row 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (29 stitches)

Row 15-16: Work in rib pattern.

Row 17: Work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (30 stitches)

Row 18-24: Work in rib pattern.

Row 25: Work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (29 stitches)

Row 26-28: Work in rib pattern.

Rows 29: Repeat Row 25. (28 stitches)

Row 30: Work in rib pattern.

Row 31: Kfb, work in rib pattern to end. (29 stitches)

Row 32: Work in rib pattern.

Row 33: Work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (28 stitches)

Row 34: Work in rib pattern.

Row 35-38: Repeat Rows 31-34. (28 stitches)

Row 39: Kfb, work in rib pattern to end. (29 stitches)

Row 40: Work in rib pattern.

Row 41: Kfb, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (29 stitches)

leftfrontdone.jpg

Knitting the Collar

Row 1 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern to end of left front. Using the a Cable Cast On, cast on 10 st. To do this, turn the work around so the right side is facing you. Insert your right needle between the first and second stitch on the left needle (not into a stitch).

cablecaston1.jpg

Knit the stitch and pull it out between the same 2 stitches.

cablecaston2.jpg

Loosely, place the stitch from the right needle onto the left needle without twisting it.

cablecaston3.jpg

One stitch cast on!

cablecaston4.jpg

Repeat this process 9 more times, inserting the right needle between the first two stitches, knitting it, putting it back on the left needle.

Continuing Row 1: After casting on 10 stitches, you will join the left front to the back simply by knitting the stitches right off the stitch holders. Work in rib pattern across back. Use the Cable Cast On method again to cast on 10 stitches. Continue to work in the rib pattern across the right front stitches to the end. (136 stitches)

joiningrow.jpg

Row 2 (right side): Work in rib pattern.

Row 3: Work in rib pattern.

Row 4: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (134 stitches)

Row 5 - 7: Work in rib pattern.

Row 8: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (132 stitches)

Row 9-20: Repeat Rows 5-8 (3 times). (126 stitches)

Row 21: Work in rib pattern.

Row 22: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (124 stitches)

Row 23-34: Repeat Rows 21-22 (6 times). (112 stitches)

Row 35: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (110 stitches)

Rows 36-38: Repeat Row 35 (3 times). (104 stitches)

Row 39: Bind off 2 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (102 stitches)

Row 40: Repeat Row 39 (1 time). (100 stitches)

Row 41: Bind off 3 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (97 stitches)

Row 42: Repeat Row 41 (1 time). (94 stitches)

Row 43: Bind off 4 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (90 stitches)

Row 44: Repeat Row 43 (1 time). (86 stitches)

Row 45: Bind off 5 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (81 stitches)

Row 46: Repeat Row 45 (1 time). (76 stitches).

Row 47: Bind off all stitches in rib pattern.

Here's what the bolero looks like now, kind of like a weird mask...

preIcordbolero2.jpg

Knitting the Edges

You're going to knit several rows of garter stitch all around the outside edge and along the two armhole edges.

Starting with the armholes: Using a 16 or 20 inch US #6 needle and with the right side facing you, start at point "a" and pick up 30 stitches by the time you get to point "b". Pick up 10 stitches between "b" and "c" ; 30 stitches between "c" and "d"; and 10 stitches between "d" and "a". 80 stitches total (give or take a few...)

preIcordbolero3.jpg
Place a marker and join for working in the round. (I put markers at each point so I don't have to count stitches from the beginning every time I lose track of how many stitches I've picked up.)

armholepickup2.jpg
Round 1: Knit all stitches.

Round 2: Purl all stitches.

Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2. 

Round 5: Bind off all stitches in knit.

armholeedge.jpg

Repeat for other armhole.

Now try on the bolero. Mark with scrap yarn the place on each side where the collar starts to flip over. You will pick up the stitches from the wrong side between those two markers (more on that when we get to it...).

collarflip.jpg

Fold the bolero in half to make sure the two scrap yarns are symmetrically placed. Move them a little if you have to.

foldedinhalf.jpg
Using a 32 or 40 inch US#6 needle pick up 18 stitches between point "A" and point "B".

outsidepickuppoints.jpg

Pick up 72 stitches between "B" and "C", but when you get to the scrap yarn, instead of picking up the stitches by knitting them, pick them up by purling them. To do this, first bring the yarn forward to purl.

purlpickup1.jpg

Now bring the needle from the back of the work through the stitch you're picking up, toward you.  

purlpickup3.jpg 

Then purl the stitch.

purlpickup4.jpg
The messy seam side now faces you instead of facing the back side of the work.

purlpickup5.jpg
Continuing to purl like this, pick up 66 stitches between "C" and "D"; and 72 stitches between "D" and "E". Make sure you pick up the same number of stitches between "D" and the scrap yarn as you did between the scrap yarn and "C". Also, switch back to picking up in knit stitch when you get to the scrap yarn.

Pick up 18 stitches between "E" and "F"; and 74 stitches between "F" and "A". 320 stitches total (about...). Place a marker and join for working in the round.

Round 1: Knit 

Round 2: Purl

Round 3: Knit

Round 4: Purl

Round 5: Bind off in knit.

One last thing. When you sew in the ends that are in the collar area, make sure to sew them into the side that won't be showing (remember that the collar flips back!).

And you're done!  

wearingitwithpin1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Reader Comments (20)

whit' ... it's just splendid ... what a delightful project ... mille baci ... happy days ... a little chilly for today though non?! ... but then it would also be perfect over long sleeves ...
February 22, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterina and gumby
This is such a cute bolero. Thank you so much for sharing the instructions.
February 22, 2008 | Unregistered Commentermartha
You look stunning -- beautiful work! As a new knitter, I am just finishing up my first washcloth for my granddaughter, I have much to learn, sigh....
February 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterPamie G.
What a beautiful bolero pattern. And a fabulously written and photographed tutorial. Cheers!
February 23, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterkatie
What a lovely knit! I have to begin immediatedly to knit me one too. Thank you for sharing your great work!
February 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterChristiane
Beautiful! Thank you for the pattern.
February 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAbril
Wow that's really gorgeous!! I'd love to try to make one. Do you have any tips to where changes can be made to the pattern for other sizes? I'm probably smaller than you, as most of my clothes fits a chest size of 32. Or would I just use small needles?
February 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBelinda
What an awesome pattern! Wonderful work! :)
February 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterHansi
Hi Belinda,

This is a pretty complicated pattern to alter, so the easiest thing to do is to change the gauge. For a 32 inch chest, I think I would knit at a gauge of 5 stitches to the inch in stockinette (as opposed to 4 1/2 stitches). You can do this by either going down a needle size or two, or by using a yarn that is a little bit thinner (like Koigu Kersti or Blue Sky Alpaca's Suri Merino).

Good luck and thanks!
Whitney

March 4, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterPurl Bee
adorable!
March 9, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterpamelamama
This is gorgeous!
March 28, 2008 | Unregistered Commenteradrienne
This has been my first project, aside from like a gazillion scarves, and I've enjoyed every single step of the pattern. I'm about to start with the collar and hope it will turn out as beautiful as yours. Thanks for sharing this awesome pattern! By the way, if I want to make a larger size, how do I estimate the amount of stitches to cast on and would increases and decreases work the same way, beginning and end of rows?
April 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSilvia
i was just looking for some bolero patterns and I found this one, it is too complicated for me but I admire your work, it is just perfect
May 2, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterHelena
Helena, I thought the pattern looked difficult and complicated too! But you have to try it because in fact it is very, very easy, and so beautiful!
May 2, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSilvia
It's beautiful, no hablo inglés, pero ojalá algún día pudiera hacer este trabajo tan hermoso. Felicitaciones.
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterEva Yáñez - Chile
My 17 yr old granddaughter chose some beautiful wool and asked me to knit her a hat and scarf. I have tons of that particular wool left so decided to knit her a shrug to go with the hat and scarf. I've searched for a few hours, and finally found this pattern. What a lovely shape and design. It's perfect. It will look wonderful on my beautiful granddaughter!! Thank you!
November 16, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterDeb
I have also been searching around for a pretty shrug pattern to go over a long sleeve t-shirt and this is beautiful! I was just wondering if the pattern could be adjusted to make it longer. If so, how would I do that? Thanks!
December 3, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAbby
Your illustrations, direcitons, & photos for this great project are wonderful! Thanks so much for the time it took to capture each step! Is there anyone who coiuld help me size it for a girl?
April 23, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJudy
I am having problems with this part *Row 1 (right side): Kfb, k1, *p2, k2, rep from * 4 more times, p2, slip slip knit (ssk), place a marker (26 stitches on right needle). Turn the work to start knitting back across the 26 stitches just knit.* I only count 22 stitches not 26, kfb (2) p2,k2 rep 4 (16) p2 (2) ssk (1). Can you help me?

Thanks!!
June 15, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle
Hi Michelle -

I think you're right! The pattern should say, "5 more times". I corrected the error in the pattern so you and all future makers of the bolero won't be led astray.

Thank you so much for pointing this out. I'm surprised it's taken so long to unearth!

Good luck with the rest of your project!

Whitney
June 16, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterpurlbee

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