Whit's Knits: Cashmere Fingerless Gloves
I was almost sorry to finish these gloves - I never wanted the pleasure of knitting Jade Sapphire's cashmere to end. They are definitely on my holiday knit list... if I can bring myself to give them away!

And for two simple variations of this pattern, check out our Hand Warmers and Flip Top Mittens Project Journal.
Materials

- 1 skein of Jade Sapphire's Zageo 6 Ply Cashmere (This color is "Papricash")
- 1 skein of Blue Sky Alpaca's Sportweight Alpaca (This color is in the "Melange" series and is called Pumpernickel #814)
- 1 set of US #4 double pointed needles
- 1 set of US #5 double pointed needles
- A couple of stitch markers
- 2 13mm buttons (I used Fab's "Orange" buttons)
The Pattern
Gauge
6 stitches = 1 inch in reverse stockinette stitch
Finished Size
7 inches in circumference, to fit average woman's hand
Note
You will be knitting these gloves inside out. So, when you're knitting the main color, the wrong side (or knit side) will face you. This is so you can knit the whole time instead of having to purl, which lots of people consider slower and/or more difficult.
Right Glove
Cuff
With the Contrast Color (CC), cast 53 stitches onto a US#4 needle (For this step you can use 2 double pointed needles, straight needles or circular needles.)
Row 1: K1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (buttonhole row): K2, p1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k2.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: K2, p1, *k1, p1, repeat from * until there are 41 stitches on the right needle and 12 stitches on the left needle, bind off the last 12 stitches.

Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch. (41 stitches remain)
Hold the needle so the buttonhole tab is to the left. With a US# 5 double pointed needle and the Main Color (MC), purl 1 row.

Distribute the 41 stitches onto three US#5 double pointed needles.

Join into the round with a knit stitch.

Knit 10 rounds.
Gusset
Next Round: Knit to 5 stitches before the end of the round, place a marker, m1R, k1, M1L, place a marker, knit to the end of the round. (43 stitches)

Knit 2 rounds.
Next Round: Knit to the first marker, slip the marker, M1R, knit to the next marker, M1L, slip the marker, knit to the end of the round. (2 stitches increased)
Repeat the last 3 rounds until there are 15 stitches between the markers (55 stitches total).
Knit 1 round.

Separating the Thumb and Fingers
Thumb
Next Round: Knit to the first marker, put the 15 gusset stitches onto scrap yarn (removing the markers)...
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...use the Cable Cast On to cast on 2 stitches...

...knitting into the next stitch to join the round, knit to the end of the round. (42 stitches)
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Knit every round until the glove reaches the base of your pinky, or for about 1 1/2 more inches.
End the last round 10 stitches before the end of the round.
Index Finger
Put the next 14 stitches onto scrap yarn.

Place a marker, use the Cable Cast On to cast on 2 stitches...

...and knitting into the next stitch to join the round, knit to 5 stitches before the marker.
Middle Finger
Put the next 12 stitches onto scrap yarn, place a marker, cast on 2 stitches, and knit to 4 stitches before the marker.
Ring Finger
Put the next 10 stitches onto scrap yarn, cast on 2 stitches and place a marker. (12 stitches remaining)

Knitting Fingers and Thumb
Starting with the pinky:
Join the remaining 12 stitches into the round and knit 3 rounds. Cut the yarn.
Changing to US #4 double pointed needles and the CC, purl 1 round.
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the last round.
Bind off in the rib pattern. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

** Put the next finger's stitches onto three US #5 double pointed needles.

With MC, pick up 2 stitches from the base of the previous finger. (To make sure the pick up seam ends up on the inside of the glove, bring the needle from the inside of the glove out to the side that's facing you.)

Then purl the stitch to pick it up. Pick up one more stitch in the same way, purling with the pick up seam on the knit side of the fabric. (12 stitches)

Place a marker and knit 4 rounds.
Changing to CC and US #4 double pointed needles, purl 1 round.
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round.
Bind off in the rib pattern. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch. ***

Repeat from ** to *** for the remaining two fingers and thumb.
Notes:
The middle finger is 14 stitches after picking up 2; the index finger is 16 stitches; and the thumb is 17 stitches.
Also, instead of knitting 4 rounds of the MC, knit 5 rounds.
And, for the thumb, end the first round of the k1, p1 rib with p2tog.
Finishing
When you've knit all the fingers and thumb, you may think what a mess!

But, just patiently weave in all the ends, and you'll be surprised how great it all looks! (Use the MC tails to sew up all the little gaps and holes, and remember to weave the ends into the knit side of the fabric.)

Now sew the inside edge of the cuff to the buttonhole tab.

Finally, try on the glove and test where you want the button to go. Then sew it on. (I used the CC to sew on the button, but the MC would look good too!)

Left Glove
Cuff
With the CC, cast 53 stitches onto a US#4 needle.
Row 1: K1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (buttonhole row): K2, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: Bind off 12 stitches, slip the stitch left on the right needle back to the left needle...

...changing to a US #5 double pointed needle and the MC, purl to the end of the row. (41 stitches)
Distribute the stitches on three US#5 double pointed needles.
Join into the round.
Knit 10 rounds.
Gusset
Round 1: K4, place a marker, m1R, k1, m1L, place a marker, knit to the end of the round. (43 stitches)
Knit 2 rounds.
Next round: Knit to marker, slip the marker, m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, slip the marker, knit to the end of the round. (2 stitches increased)
Repeat the last 3 rounds until there are 15 stitches between the markers (55 stitches total).
Knit 1 row.
The Rest of the Left Glove
Knit the rest of the Left Glove as you did the Right Glove, EXCEPT when you've knit to the base of the pinky, end the last round 2 stitches before the end of the round (instead of 10 stitches before the end). Then continue as for the Right Glove, putting the next 14 stitches onto scrap yarn, etc. until you're done!









November 3, 2008
Reader Comments (24)
thank you for sharing this great pattern!
Unfortunately, no, you can't squeak out a second pair from one skein. But, you could buy two skeins of cashmere (instead of 1 cashmere and 1 alpaca) and do the trim in cashmere and reverse the colors to get two pairs.
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
Thanks!
You can definitely come to the shop for help on this or any other project, anytime!
Good luck to you.
PS Cant
you tell that I am becoming an addict?
Thanks for making this available!!
Thanks!
While it's true that the gauge of this pattern is a little tighter than I would normally knit cashmere, it shouldn't feel stiff and super tight. The fabric should be slightly dense so that the gloves will be warm and cozy, but not inflexible.
One explanation for your gauge problems is that you're loose knitter, in which case it's totally fine to go down a few needle sizes to get the right gauge.
Another possibility is that there are technical problems with your swatch. For a really accurate gauge swatch, I would recommend knitting the swatch the way you will be knitting the glove (ie knitting every stitch in the round. For instructions on how to knit an in-the-round-gauge swatch visit our Circular Gauge Tutorial at
http://www.purlbee.com/the-purl-bee/2008/4/7/whits-knits-circular-gauge-tutorial.html
And for a refresher on how to count your swatch stitches check out our Swatch Tutorial at http://www.purlbee.com/swatch-tutorial/.
I hope this helps. Gauge issues can be really mystifying, not to mention frustrating! Please let us know if you have any follow up questions and good luck!
Whitney
Thanks!
Stacy
Anyway, my question is regarding how you join in the new color of yarn. While I am familiar with doing various new joins when there is already a yarn strand present, I can't seem to manage making a tight "in the round" join with the method I think is being done in the pictures.
Would you mind telling me how you joined in the red yarn to start your purl row? It looks like you simply draped a long-tailed piece of yarn into the first purl stitch and kept working from there, but perhaps I'm wrong.
Thanks!
Yes, just drape a long tail of the new color and go. If you find that its a bit loose when you're done, you can tighten up the gap when you sew in your tail.
I'm probably missing something basic or missing something really obvious but I'm on my 5th failed attempt at these and though i'd better ask. When I transfer onto my double pointed needles I seem to hit a bit of a snag. No matter what I do i always end up with the seams on the inside so that i'm not making them inside out. when i try and change it either the needles end up backwards or the seam is on the inside. I've tried everything and its driving me mad. Am I doing something really stupid? Please help!
Alice
I'm sorry you're having such a frustrating time! I hope it helps if I tell you that, after you distribute the stitches onto three needles, you need to arrange the needles so that the working yarn is coming from the right. The seam side will be facing you and you will make the joining stitch by inserting the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle. I would also recommend really looking at the photos. Try to arrange your knitting so it looks just like the pictures.
Good luck!
Whitney
I would really like to knit these, with a different yarn for my father. I am not great at guessing how many stitches to add on for going up a size, could you help me out? For example, would I need to add on extra stitches from the beginning, or just in the main and thumb area?
If you can help, thank you :D
Can I do these gloves with a circular needles in place of DPN? I've to follow the pattern at the same manner, haven't I?
Thanks in advance!!