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Thursday
28Aug2008

Molly's Sketchbook: Sewing Machine Round Up


What kind of  sewing machine to buy is one of the most frequently asked questions we get through Ask Purl Bee  and is also something we hear almost everyday at our shop, Purl Patchwork. It's a question I always enjoy answering because I've had a long relationship with sewing machines.  I learned how to sew when I was a child on a small home machine and since then I've had the opportunity to sew on many different kinds and brands, from a non-electric treadle machine, to an industrial Singer 20U, to a beautiful high end Bernina.  I've learned a lot along the way about what makes a good machine!

Here are some helpful points to keep in mind when buying a sewing machine (especially if its your first machine):

  • You can sew many things even with a very simple sewing machine. A good basic machine should be able to sew forwards and backwards, do a few zig zag and stretch stitches, and have a removable foot. You will not be able to sew a wedding dress or elaborately quilt a queen size quilt with a basic machine but you can do a lot!  I've always felt that it's a good plan to start with something basic and then to upgrade once you figure out what you like to sew.
  • A beginner machine doesn't have to be expensive. There are some great machines out there for under $250, however I wouldn't recommend getting a new sewing machine below the $100 range (the $99 dollar Brother sewing machine below is as low as I'd go). Many very inexpensive sewing machines tend to be more like toys than tools with a lot of plastic parts that can break eaasily, not a lot of power and many only sew in one direction.
  • If you want to start with a machine that will work for making quilts there are a few specific things to look for: When piecing a quilt it's important to be able to make an accurate 1/4-inch seam allowance (for clothing a typical seam-allowance is 5/8-inch) so the back of the quilt-top doesn't get too bulky. For this you will want to be sure to get a 1/4-inch foot for your machine. For the actual quilting you will need a walking foot and a darning foot.  A walking foot pulls the quilt top, batting and backing together from the top and bottom so all the layers stay in place as you quilt in a straight line. A darning foot allows you to quilt in any direction, know as "free-motion" quilting. In order to free-motion quilt you must be able to lower or cover the feed dogs on your machine. The feed dogs are the little grippers that pull the fabric through the machine along the underside. This is an important point because many machines don't have this feature.
  • If you want to make clothes you will want a machine that has a few different stretch stitches (many machines only have one) so you can explore sewing with knit fabrics. Stretch stitches are important because they can stretch along with the fabric once you are wearing the garment. You'll also want to get a zipper foot for putting in zippers. In addition it's helpful to get a machine with a buttonhole stitch, which makes sewing buttonholes a snap. (For more on buttonholes check out my buttonhole tutorial here.)
I know that all this information can seem very technical and overwhelming (especially if you've never sewn before!) but the real key in buying a machine is to identify what you want out of it and find the right fit for you. You'll be happy that your machine has that button hole feature or feed dogs that lower once you get going with sewing.

As for specific machine recommendations, below is a list of some of the best machines available on the All Brands website, with an emphasis on beginning machines. (We don't have any affiliation with All Brands, we just like that they have a lot of options and free shipping on most machines.)

For the Very Beginner (or a Child)


The Brother XL-2610 is a starter machine for the casual or beginner sewer. It's under $100 and has useful features like 25 built in stitches, including a buttonhole stitch, and it even comes with extra feet. This would also be a great machine for a child because it's small and cute but not so overly cutesy that the child won't be able to grow with it. $99

For the Beginning Quilter

The Janome Jem Gold 660 is the machine we use to teach our classes at Purl Patchwork. I also have one at home and I use it to sew all of my Purl Bee projects. It's a great no frills machine perfect for the beginning quilter (especially if you get the optional quilting accessories). It's a great machine to learn on because it's so basic but also has a buttonhole stitch, a stretch stitch, and you can cover the feed dogs. It's light weight which also makes it a good fit for veteran sewers who need a travel machine. If you're just starting out and want to try making quilts this is the machine for you! $199

For the Well Rounded Sewer


The Janome Sew Precise 32 Stitch Computer Sewing Machine is a great machine for someone who sews all kinds of things from quilts to clothing. It has 32 stitches including 16 stretch stitches and a buttonhole stitch, and it comes with a bunch of useful feet.  It's a good intro to the world of the electronic machine, without being too overwhelming for a beginner. $249

For a Quilter Taking it to the Next Level



When I was growing up my mom had a children's clothing company and I would sometimes use their ultra-fast Juki industrial machine. Sadly, it spoiled me forever because my biggest issue with my current Janome Jem is that it's too slow. And that's why I think the Juki TL98QE  might be my next machine- it's FAST! Plus it's great for quilters because it comes with a 1/4 inch foot and the feed dogs drop easily without having to add an extra darning plate. If you do a lot of your own quilting (as opposed to just piecing) you might also want to check out the slightly more expensive Juki 98Qs here. $599

If you're looking for a machine that's more expensive or specific than any of the ones above I would recommend going to your local sewing machine store and trying some out. If you live in the NYC area Sew Right in Bayside Queens has a helpful staff and they carry a good selection of Janome, Singer, and Bernina machines among other brands.

Good luck finding your perfect machine and happy sewing! --Molly

PS- If you are looking to donate your old machine there are two great charities to consider. The Sewing Machine Project gives used machines to people in the New Orleans area affected by Hurricane Katrina and Pedals for Progress donates them to people in developing countries all over the world. (Thanks to Purl Bee reader Jaquelin Pelzer for giving us the heads up on Pedals for Progress!)

Reader Comments (25)

I am looking for sewing machine. I too want to start making clothes, problem is I'm not very good at sewing.
August 28, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSpare Ribbon
Wow, this was really helpful! I am eyeing that Janome Sew Precise or the Juki. Right now I'm sewing with a Singer, which works fine, but not that great for machine quilting. I would like to be able to drop the feed dogs, and I like that wider opening to fit a quilt through without squishing or shoving it! Thanks!
August 28, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTerriaw
Last Christmas I bought a very basic Singer for $85(CDN) and I'm really happy with it. Mind you, this is not the first machine I've owned, so I knew what I was looking for. When I was twelve and teaching myself to sew I received second hand Singer that was about 5 years older than I was. 25 years later its motor went. I poked and prodded and fiddled with about 10 different models before choosing this one.
I have also found that people have very personal relationships with their machines, so be careful when asking your sewing friends for advice. They may be quite messianic about the brand they own, but it may not meet your needs. And if you ask a Bernina addict and a Singer afficiando at the same time, in the same room you might get pyrotechnics.
August 28, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterWinnie
What luck! I've been hunting around for a sewing machine and I was just about to search for machines recommendations here.
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered Commentercyndi
I went with a basic Brother model a few years ago and you wouldn't believe how much is possible on it! Heavy furnishings are no problem (in moderation). I don't do a lot of buttonholes or zips, so doing them the old-fashioned way seems easier to me than learning to use a special foot. Sometimes less is more.
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterfrancois
This is a great posting, Molly. It almost makes me want to get a new sewing machine. After years as a garment manufacturer I hardly ever sew any more. When I do it's on my very old, very reliable Singer Featherweight. It only goes forward and back, doesn't have a stretch stitch and I can only make buttonholes with a very klunky attachment. Why do I still have this funny old machine? I love the old lady smell when I take it out of it's box.The ancient attachments it came with are a wonderful puzzle. I still haven't figured out what some of them do. I love the way it looks and the way the stitches are always precise and neat. When I have more complicated things to sew.....I don't!
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJosie (Molly's Mom)
Just a note: the newest model of the Janome Gem Gold uses drop-able feed dogs rather than relying on a plate. Also, it has a built-in handle on top, which I don't think the old version did. It's a very solid machine that, with its 3/4 size, has the added bonus of being easily transportable.
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterelbie
I'm not sure how to classify myself as a sewer. I don't quilt, I do make clothes, and random crafty stuff. I have an old 50's singer that my mom got me. I think it's a great beginning machine, it has a lot of neat bells and whistles (fun stitches) is all metal, easy to use, and was cheap. I think for the price it's a great machine for someone new to sewing that may demand too much from a machine with plastic parts. Which is why i got this machine. In my early 20's when i really got into sewing, I was well known for forcing multiple layers of faux fur and other difficult fabrics thru my machine. plastic wasn't going to cut it.
August 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterDazzLynn!
Fantastic, clear article. I sew a lot but even I wasn't sure why quilts should be 1/4" allowances! Thanks!

I used an old Kenmore for ages. I think they're pretty much the equivalent of a Singer. All metal, made in the 70s. It was great. But the threads did bunch up underneath, in the bobbin case, and I always thought it was my fault. When I started sewing again last year after a hiatus of years and years, I found the Singer was again driving me nuts. (Though I, too, have great fondness for it.) So - I looked on line for a used machine (fantasizing about a Bernina for next to nothing -- ha!) and when I found something on Craigslist or the equivalent I would quickly research the machine. Usually I found they were not great and I would not inquire about it. However one day an elderly sewist posted her Husqvarna Prisma for 175. This, I researched quickly, could be a good one. All metal, and "computerized" a la 1980! I was the first inquiry. When I met the woman she had a big Bernina quilting machine and was getting rid of this old one, I knew I'd hit the jackpot. She kindly showed me all the features and let me sew a while. What a sweetie! Now that I've used this Husqvarna I realize it was a very lucky find. I'd never heard of them before but now I'm a huge fan. Try used -- if you can check it out and rely on the seller, it might be a terrific way to start!
August 30, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterella kelly
Great information! I am a childrens clothing designer & have several machines. I would recommend, no matter what your level or budget that you search the internet for reviews on each and every machine. They don't make them quite like they used too. My old Brother lasted for 20k miles! My new one (not mentioned the brand), about 1 yr yikes! Check reviews!
have fun!
August 30, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTammara
Thanks for the post. I have the low-end Brother, which I bought at the beginning of the summer at the recommendation of an F.I.T. sewing tutor. She said to start with that and move up. So far, it works reasonably well, and very well for the money. Ultimately, I hope to buy a high-end machine, such as a Bernina.

Thanks for the recommendation for Sew Right. I live in New York City and some more convenient dealers haven't been terribly helpful.
August 30, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterNewish Sewer
In response to Tammara:

Yes, I always search for product reviews. I Googled "best sewing machines" or the name of a particular model and "reviews." I bought my Brother machine from Amazon after getting a recommendation and reading a lot of positive reviews on Amazon.com. PatternReview.com also reviews sewing machines.
August 30, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterNewish Sewer
thank you for doing this. thank you for not being obnoxious and swearing up and down that you would never in a million years dream of sewing on something that wasn't imported from norway and cost less than a harvard education. i've been an intimidated wannabe sewer for years.
September 3, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterrebekah
I was delighted to see you feature the JUKI here. I have a JUKI TL-98Q and I love love LOVE it. it is an awesome machine. and the auto cut feature (which I claimed I didn't need at the beginning) is a HUGE timesaver. I LOVE my JUKI!!!
September 4, 2008 | Unregistered Commenteramandajean
I recommend old Husqvarna/Viking models--mine is an absolute workhorse--a Freesia 415, I think-- It's a long story about how I ended up with it, but I've taught myself to sew on it, and it is absolutely amazing in how much abuse it will take (since I didn't know what I was doing for quite awhile, and am impatient to boot). And it still works beautifully!
September 9, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBeth Walker
I love my Janome Decor Computer!! I had a crappy low end Singer for a few years. It did the job, but I needed something to sew more substantial thicknesses of fabrics. The Janome has been a DREAM! Single best purchase I've ever made in my life.

I've since become quite enamored by sergers. Any suggestions for about a $300 to $500 model?

Thanks for another great post.
September 9, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSteph
today i popped on to your blog to see what fun things i could learn about AND to ask you about what sewing maching you would recommend for a child. we are buying my 10 year old stepdaughter her first sewing machine for christmas and i wanted your opinion. i'm so glad i scrolled down and found this post! thanks!
September 11, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterRitch in Love
I have a White sewing machine that I purchased for around $30 five years ago. It has hemmed my jeans, sewn baby blankets, sewn my chenille + blackout liner + grommet ribbon at once, made reversible curtains for my studio, and sewn the blackout lined curtains in my kids' bedrooms twice. It does have plastic parts, none of which have broken. It weighs almost nothing and I can stick it in a brown paper grocery bag along with my notions and an extension cord and bring it anywhere. I love it.

Plus when (if!) it breaks, spending another $30 (though maybe the price has gone up by now) would be a no brainer. But then again, as you can tell, I'm not a big time sewer. The above are literally all my projects in the past five years.
September 11, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterChristina Shaver
FYI, Janome makes a non-computerized machine for Kenmore that's incredibly similar to the Sew Precise machine listed above. I think the only other difference is that it has 27 stitches rather than 32 but the Kenmore machine does comes with a rediculous number of feet.

http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000UE1JTC/sr=1-5/qid=1221223

It may only be available in Canada, but it's worth checking out if you're looking for a well-rounded machine that's not computerized. It's the machine I have and I love it!
September 12, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSarah
I have a Pfaff and it's been wonderful for the last 20 years, with no trouble at all. I have made quilts and clothes and curtains etc. with no problems.

I recommend it.
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterpeaches
This is a great post. My sewing machine is ...well its over 100 years old now, I guess I should replace it.
September 26, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle
I had a Kenmore 22 stitch electronic machine, which I have had for over 15-20 years. I paid around $300 for it back then. Recently after studying many machines and cost, I chose a Brother CS6000i and it has become a most valued treasure.
It is computerized. Push button sews or foot pedal. Also programs needle to end with needle down or up each time. It has 60 stitches extra feet, converts my kenmore feet like the ruffler foot and comes with a long table that fits on for quilting, and automatic threading. Just put the number of the stitch into the screen and it tells you what foot to use. It beeps if you go to do something wrong, so you can't wreck it. The other main decision was that it was only $175.00 at Walmart on line and was shipped to the store where I picked it up. I can only sing it's praises. For beginner the cost is economical, and for the more experienced sewer it has all you would ever need. I also have a Janome 634D Serger also.
I am not interested in embroidery as of yet!!!!!! I turned a spare bedroom into a sewing & craft room and when I'm in it I'm in ShangriLa
December 2, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterPatricia
Can anyone tell me if the Juki machines listed above only strait stitch, or can they button hole & zig zag? I can't find a list of stitches anywhere!
December 5, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBenedita
Thanks for all the good advice. What do you know about the Pfaff 1142 or any of the low end Berninas? I hear good things about Bernina, but don't know anything about the low end (cheaper) machines. I've heard to stay away from computerized machines and only go with mechanical ones. Any help there?
March 13, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterBethany
I'd also like to know about the pros/cons of mechanical versus electronic sewing machines.

I'm a returning sewer (I haven't sewed since junior high) and am looking for a versatile machine I can use on clothing for my son, making clothing for myself, pillows, appliques, small quilts and other crafty items.

I have no idea where to start in looking for a machine and was looking for specific recommendations, so I was very happy to find this post.

I like all having all the stitch options the electronic ones offer (like the Sew Precise recommended above), but am concerned that there's so much more that can go wrong with them (i.e. automatic windows versus hand crank ones in a car). It seems that with an electronic one, there's so much more that can (and will) break and need repair.

Are mechanical machines just sturdier and worth the stitch trade-off for the limited amount of sewing I'll be doing?

Thank you!
March 13, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterLisa

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