Whit's Knits: Coco's Bobble Dress

Based on her great-great grandmother's design, Coco's crocheted dress is a tribute to the craftsmanship and creativity of the past. It's amazing to me that the same design that made sense in a small Italian town a hundred years ago still makes sense today! Nothing binding or frilly or old-fashioned; just a classic A-line shape animated by rows of charming bobbles. I think this dress is going to make sense for another hundred years!

The Materials
- 4 skeins of Koigu's Premium Merino (this is color #1505 )
- 1 size "F" crochet hook
The Pattern
Gauge
5 single crochets = 1 inch
Finished Size
To fit ages 2-4 (as a dress for smaller kids and as tunic for bigger kids)
17 1/2 inches from shoulder to bottom hem
22 1/2 inches chest circumference
30 inches bottom hem circumference
Abbreviations
Single Crochet = sc
Double Crochet = dc
M1puff = make 1 puff
To make a puff, first yarn over, then insert the hook in the next stitch, and pull a stitch through (3 stitches on the hook).

Repeat this step three more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch each time. First there will be 5 stitches on the hook, then 7, and finally 9.

Yarn over and draw through 8 of the loops (so there are 2 left on the hook).

And, finally, yarn over and pull through the 2 last loops.

The puff stitch actually "puffs" on the side away from you. For this reason, the dress is made with the wrong side facing you. You'll turn it inside out at the end!
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
To single crochet 2 together, first pull a stitch through the next stitch (2 loops on hook).

Then pull a stitch through the next stitch (3 loops on hook).

And, to finish, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

The Bottom Hem
Chain 148.
Slip stitch into first chain to join in the round, being careful to not twist the chain.
Round 1: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (148 stitches)
Round 2: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 4: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: Chain 1 , *m1puff in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 7: Repeat Round 3.
Round 8: Repeat Round 4.

The Skirt
Round 1 (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 35 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (144 stitches)
Round 2: Chain 2, 1 dc in every stitch to end of round, slip stitch to top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in every stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Rounds 4 - 7: Repeat last 2 rounds.
Round 8: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.

Round 9 (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 34 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (140 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 33 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (136 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 32 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (132 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 31stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (128 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 30 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (124 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 29stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (120 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-4 only.

Next Round: Chain 1, *1 sc in next 53 stitches, slip stitch in next 14 stitches (for underarm), 1 sc in next 46 stitches, slip stitch in next 7 stitches.
The Front
Notes:
- The front and back are worked separately in rows, rather than in rounds. So, be sure to turn the work at the end of each row in order to crochet back the other way.
- Each side is 46 stitches (don't work the 14 slip stitches in between the front and back; they are the underarms.)
Shaping the Neck
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip stitch in next 7 stitches, chain 2 (counts as 1 dc here and for the rest of the pattern), 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row (last sc is in top of chain 2 from previous row here and for the rest of the pattern), turn.
Row 3 (bind off for neck): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times , 1 sc in next stitch, slip stitch next 16 stitches, chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.

Now, working just the 15 stitches of the Left Front Shoulder:
Row 1 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Rows 5 and 6 : Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 5 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.
Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 11: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 12: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn
Row 13: Slip stitch each stitch to end of row.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

For the RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER,
With the right side facing you, join new yarn to the single crochet just to the left of the center 16 slipped neck stitches.
Row 1 (right side): Slip stitch next stitch, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row. (13 stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Rows 4 -7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3.
Row 8: Chain 1, * 1 sc in next stitch, m1puff, repeat from * 5 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.
Row 9: Repeat Row 3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Repeat Row 3.
Row 12: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 13: Slip stitch each of the remaining 7 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

The Back
With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 14 slipped left underarm stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 2, 1 dc in next 46 stitches, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-2.
Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
Row 10 (bind off for neck): Chain 1, 1 sc in next 15 stitches, slip stitch next 16 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Working just the 15 stitches of the Left Back Shoulder:
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch.
Row 2 (right side): Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 3: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 5: Slip stitch the next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 6: Slip stitch each of the remaining 7 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
For the Right Back Shoulder:
With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn just left of the center 16 slipped neck stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn. (15 stitches)
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 4: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 5: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 6: Slip stitch remaining 7 stitches.
Cut yarn and pull through the last stitch. (One thing to ignore about this picture: the tail of the right back shoulder will actually be coming from the left end of the last row, not the middle.)

Finishing
Join the Shoulders
With the wrong sides facing each other, thread the yarn under a slipped stitch from one shoulder.

Then thread the yarn under the slipped stitch directly opposite on the other shoulder.

Continue sewing back and forth until the shoulders are joined.
The Armholes
With the right side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 14 slipped underarm stitches, point "A" in this photo:

Slip stitch from point A to point B (around the armhole, but not including the underarm). Try to make about 20 stitches along the front and 20 along the back.
Repeat for the other armhole.
The Neck
With the right side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 16 slipped front neck stitches, at point "A" in this photo:

Slip stitch from point A to point B (to just before the slipped stitches of the back neck). Slip about 20 stitches up the front and 8 down the back. Cut the yarn.
Join a new yarn at point C and slip stitch around to point D (8 stitches up the back and 20 down the front). Cut the yarn.
Sew in all the ends and block the dress and you're all done!

purl bee
We've received quite a few requests for an image of the original dress, so here it is! Enjoy!!










Reader Comments (47)
Funny question: What brand shoes is your sweet model wearing in the picture? I'm finding it to be quite a challenge to find the perfect little girl shoe for my little girl. You know, sans glitter and cartoons creatures?
Whitney checked and you were right. The pattern has been edited to reflect the correction. Thank you so much for pointing it out!
The two slip stitches are important for shaping the neck. I'm not sure what you mean by not looking "right", but do keep in mind that at the end of the project you will be making a slip stitch edge all around the neck line, so little inconsistencies will be smoothed away!
I hope this answers you question. Please let us know if you have more!
Good luck!
Whitney
I am up to the front section and I am wondering why one underarm is 14 slip stitches but the other is 7 sc and 7 slip stitiches?
Thanks
You slip 7 stitches at the very end of the "Skirt" section, and then slip another 7 stitches at the beginning of the "Front" section (Row 1), making a total of 14 slipped stitches.
I hope this clarification allows you to move forward with confidence!
Thanks for your question!
Whitney
Kalisha
I live in the tropics, can you recommend another yarn to use? I'm afraid merino wool just isn't suitable.
Thanks.
Check out this 4 ply cotton from Rowan, its the same gauge:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/yarndetail/385
we're very low on colors right now, but we'll have more in a couple of weeks.
Hope this helps!
On the join instructions since we are slip stitching to each SC or DB from previous row I am not counting that as a stitch. I thought maybe we should be joining at each rows previous slip stitch join and counting that first sc or dc as a stitch?? Does that make sense?
Again, thanks so much for sharing!
Thanks
There isn't really another 4ply yarn that we stock or are familiar with (but there may be something out there). We're so sad that Rowan discontinued this yarn! I would try Rowan's Cotton Glace, which is a little bit thicker, so your dress will turn out a bit larger than Whitney's but its the closest cotton I know of. Here is a link to the Cotton Glace:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/yarndetail/387
Hope this helps!
Joelle
You should have ended "The Skirt" section by slipping 7 stitches. Each underarm has 14 slipped stitches, so the 7 slip stitches in Row 1 of the "Shaping the Neck" section are the second half of those underarm stitches.
Does this make sense with what you have? I'm a little concerned that you're "hitting a seam" since the 7 slip stitches I think you're talking about should be happening after the side "seam".
Please let me know if I'm misunderstanding something or if you need further clarification. We can work it out!
Thanks -
Whitney
I made this little dress to fit my 3yo. It turned out perfect. Made the dress in pastel pink and the bobbles in pastel green (her favourite colours at the moment).
Thank you so much for clear-cut instructions.
I love Purl, wish we had something like it here in FL, but your website is the next best thing. Visited Purl at the old location, and hope to visit the new store next time we are in NY, looks beautiful!
The Bobble Dress is a bit of an involved pattern to size up, but if you're up for the challenge and have some experience, then I say, go for it! You'll want to cast on more stitches (keep the count even), make the dress longer before you start the Front, and make the armholes deeper and the neck opening proportionately bigger. Whew!
Good luck - we'd love to see the results!
Whitney