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Saturday
20Sep

Molly's Sketchbook: Oliver and S. Brunch Jacket and Button Tutorial

My youngest niece really loves elephants. When she was smaller she used to refer to them as "bumbos" (which I assume came from Dumbo)  and charge around the house making "bumbo" sounds. So when Purl Patchwork got the Kokka Menagerie in the tiny smiling elephant print I knew I needed to make her something out of it. When we received the new Oliver and S patterns, including the sophisticated Sunday Brunch Jacket I knew what that something would be!

As you may remember the last time I made an Oliver and S pattern I used it to conquer my fear of buttonholes. This time I had to face my fear of... sleeves. I'm a little ashamed to admit that up until this point I had only sewn sleeves under the watchful eye of my mom who is a very accomplished seamstress (she won first place in the 1966 California State Fair for a suit she made). But since this pattern is so well written it turned out that the sleeves were a breeze, I didn't have to rip the seam out even once. I also came away from this project knowing how to sew in a facing and a collar too! I highly recommend this pattern and I LOVE how it came out!

One thing that's not explained in the pattern, or really in any pattern, is how to properly sew on a button and surprisingly it's something many people don't know how to do. Once you've completed such a beautiful and complicated piece it's important to finish it properly and that means sewing the buttons on correctly.

I never paid much attention to sewing on buttons until my favorite jacket lost one about a year ago. I sewed it on tightly and with a lot of thread but it fell off again in no time. After some research I finally figured out what I'd been doing wrong. It's not about how tight you sew it on or how much thread you use. It's about letting it have some give and securing it properly. If you'd like to see what I mean you can check out my Sewing on a Button Tutorial.

A note: I used two 1 inch buttons instead of the four 5/8 inch buttons called for in the pattern. You can follow my Buttonhole Tutorial if you want to see how to markand sew your own buttonholes.

Reader Comments (30)

This is ADORABLE. I can't imagine a more darling jacket. :)
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterErin K
... it's so absolutely beautiful ... babar would wear one like that ... bisous ...
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterina and gumby
Oh my goodness. That is the most adorable jacket ever! If only I had a little girl to make one for. Are there any adorable boy clothes out there in the world to sew?
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterLinn
That jacket is darling! If the pattern came in adult sizes, I would totally sew one up and wear it. Maybe even with the elephants.
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterlindamade
I bought that very fabric when I was in town a few months ago. My daughter's lovey is a pink elephant so I absolutely HAD to buy it. What great inspiration for a project!
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle
Your niece is one lucky lady to have an auntie to sew lovely clothes for her. I would wear that bumbo jacket! Great job!
September 20, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterZana
Hi LInn,
Oliver + S has some really cute boys clothes patterns too! You can find them all at this link:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/patternlist/company,274,,type,patchwork
September 20, 2008 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Oh this is SEW cute.
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMiranda
Oh this is just darling! I love the print - elephants happily stampeding across a jacket!

If I smile nicely will you make one in my size?

~Holly
Two Cheese Please
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTwo Cheese Please
This is really beautiful! It looks like something you would see in a high class clothing boutique! Its wonderful and I love it!
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAmber
This is really, really cute, Molly, and the sleeves look perfect.
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJosie (Molly's Mom)
Why oh why are these for kids only??? I want that jacket for me!
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered Commentershrinky
That's just adorable!
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterNichole
Wow, I LOVE it! It looks so sweet and sophisticated! Fantastic work!
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterConcha
Liesl's design for sleeves has taken ALL my fear away, too. I totally am enthralled with her patterns and instructions perfect finishing.

Your jacket is darling - I'm a new addict for your site. I WILL be back to buy fabrics.
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterApril
Wow, I really wish this were available in an adult size.
September 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterErin
I love the jacket. The print is adorable too.
September 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterNancy
I want a jacket like that!
September 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterFancy Elastic
What an adorable little jacket! I love the fabric you used - the color and the motif. This looks very professionally-made too.
September 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTerriaw
So adorable. I haven't seen this Oliver+S pattern before! I do wish it was in an adult size too.
September 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterFairlight
That is so sweet! I wish it came in my size too!! You did a wonderful job.
September 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJane
What a cute jacket and I love the fabric and color... Seems there is an art to everything including sewing on buttons!
September 23, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterwaterrose
Adorable, especially with the bumbos! :) I've been wanting to try one of the patterns for my daughter, maybe I should start with this one?
September 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAJ
Hi, the jacket is really cute. I would love to make one for my daughter, but unfortunately does'nt look like you have this in size 6. My daughter is going to be 6 soon.
September 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterLalli
Absolutely adorable, and a great fabric choice!
September 26, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterohthecuteness
How bizarre, I just posted on twitter for recommendations for children's sewing patterns! I'm a complete novice but I have lots of great intentions.

I absolutely love that jacket though and the fabric is just gorgeous. You've made a lovely job of it, well done :)
September 26, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterVonnie
so adorable. I'm really starting to wish that the Oliver+S patterns went up to my size!
September 29, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterysolda
I love this jacket; so elegant for a little girl. I would so love to make something so pretty but must find myself a little girl first.
October 1, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterAima
Awww. So cute. Love the style. What did your neice think??
October 8, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMinns
I definitely think that the two-button alteration is the way to go. It's tidier and neater looking. Although the four-button original is sweet and old-fashioned.
Also, the button tutorial is right-on. Building a thread shank takes the sawing action off of the threads as they go through the holes. Well done!
Great elephant fabric, too!
October 9, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterTinuviel

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