Sweet Stitching with Erin: Bandana Cowl
Working at Purl Soho, I have a front row seat to the parade of effortlessly chic people that give our neighborhood its renowned style. From here I can report that, for men and women alike, this season's prevailing trend in neckwear is the bandana. Jauntily tied around the neck, it tops off everything from Sunday's T-shirt and jeans to Friday's night-on-the-town dress! The bandana is a sassy, casual touch that suggests that the wearer possesses an innate stylishness. It's the perfect accessory for those cool mornings when you've hit snooze a few too many times and need to turn "thrown-together-in-a-rush" into "casually glamourous"!

My Bandana Cowl is inspired by my desire to make "effortlessly chic" even more effortless. I was so excited to create something with the same freshness as the tied bandana but without the fiddly aspect of actually having to tie anything!
I chose to make my Cowl out of Swan's Island Bulky, a brand new yarn made from a beautiful blend of undyed merino and alpaca that feels wonderfully soft against the skin. The yarn creates a dense, rich fabric that's cuddly perfection for the chilly days of fall!
The Materials
- 1 skein Swans Island Bulky, naturally dyed colors are 100% Organic Merino and undyed colors (Natural, Oatmeal and Seasmoke) are 85% Organic Merino and 15% Alpaca. (This color is Oatmeal).
- A US #10, 16-inch circular needle
- Jumbo Locking Stitch Markers, 3 total (optional)

This cowl uses approximately 100 - 130 yards and would be stunning made out of many of Purl Soho's yarns. Here are some beautiful options:
- 2 skeins of Jade Sapphire's 8 Ply Cashmere, 100% Mongolian Cashmere. (Shown above in the color Silver Pearl.)
- 2 skeins Blue Sky's Techno, 68% Baby Alpaca , 10% Extra Fine Merino, 22% Silk.
- 1 skein Manos Del Uruguay's Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino
- 1 skein Cascade's Eco Cloud, 70% Undyed Merino Wool and 30% Undyed Baby Alpaca
The Pattern
Gauge
4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
6 rows = 1 inch
Finished Size
19 inches in circumference and 12 inches from top to bottom.
Pattern Notes
S2KPO: Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch. (This makes a centered double decrease.)
Begin
Cast on 89 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Set-up Round: Purl all stitches.
Round 1: K43, S2KPO (see Pattern Note, above), knit to end of round. (87 stitches)
Round 2: P42, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (85 stitches)
Round 3: K41, S2KPO, knit to end of round. (83 stitches)
Round 4: P40, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (81 stitches)
The next section is worked back and forth in short rows, building from the point of the bandana to the back of the neck. You'll be turning the work between each row instead of continuing around the needle. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!
Row 5: K42, wrap and turn.
Row 6: P3, wrap and turn.
Row 7: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 8: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, p1, wrap and turn
Repeat Rows 7 and 8 eighteen more times. Don't worry if you lose count; you'll know you're done when you wrap and turn the stitches right next to the marker!
You've finished the short rows!
Next Round: With the knit side facing you, knit to the marker, making sure to pick up the wrapped stitch.
Continue with the knit side facing you, working again in the round. Knit 2 rounds, picking up the wrap of the first stitch.
Set-up Round: K18, place marker, k45, place marker, knit to end of round.
*Decrease Round: Knit to two stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to the next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end of round. (2 stitches decreased)
Knit 3 rounds (or for 1/2 inch).
Repeat from * five more times. (69 stitches)
Next Round: Purl
Next Round: Knit
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more.
Bind off very loosely in purl. (I like to go up several needle sizes to bind off. In this case, I bound off with a US #15 needle.)
Weave in your ends and block as desired. Blocking isn't strictly necessary for this project, but it significantly improves the drape and softness of the yarn. I'm personally convinced that Soak wash makes anything short of a Brillo Pad feel next-to-the-skin cuddly!
Enjoy your Bandana Cowl on all the brisk fall days to come! --Erin










October 11, 2011
Reader Comments (195)
The 3 stitches that remain are the unworked stitches that haven't been knit as part of the short rows. So, at the end of the short row section you should have 78 stitches that you've worked back and forth, and 3 unworked stitches in between.
Thanks so much for the question!
Thank you in advance for your thoughts!
Every knitter's gauge is different, so it's always important to do a gauge swatch before you start your project. You should use whatever needle size gives you 4 stitches to the inch in your chosen yarn. I would steer clear of any yarn that has more than 5 stitches to the inch on the ball band if you want to avoid an open look, but if you double check your gauge before you should be all right!
Thanks for the great question, enjoy your project!
Such a lovely pattern!
Elizabeth
-Caitlin
Also, do you think this would knit up nice in worsted weight and what size needles would you use?
Hoping you can answer my questions!
For the s2kpo you do move the yarn to the back before you slip the stitches, even on the purl rows. Doing it this way creates the pretty line of decreases at the point.
Thanks so much for the great question!
I'm sure you've done nothing wrong! Every knit has both a horizontal gauge, in our case 4 stitches per 1 inch, and a vertical gauge which isn't crucial for this pattern. Your yarn, and tension as a knitter, is most likely giving you a taller stitch than I achieved with the Swan's Island Bulky. Your cowl will be a little bit longer when finished than mine, but that will just add to the lovely draping at the neck when you wear it!
If you'd like to substitute another yarn I would recommend doing a gauge swatch to decide what size needles will give you 4 stitches per 1 inch. Every knitter, and every yarn, is different, but many worsted weight yarns will knit 4 stitches to 1 inch on US 8, 9, or 10 needles.
Thanks for the question, enjoy your cowl!
-Erin
Now that I got that straightened out, I'm all set. Cowls for Christmas!
Thanks!
I have started, but I need some help. How many short rows are you supposed to do? I'm so confused about the 3 unworked stitches. If you wrap one, then knit or purl the next, where does the 3 come in? I feel like I'm not leaving any room inbetween?
thanks!
Thanks !
Really nice cowl !! I used ECO and it looks grand. Yippee!!
Thumbs up!
-Kate
Short rows can definitely be a little tricky at first, but don't let that discourage you! When you're knitting your short rows there will be a little gap between the wrapped stitch at the edge of the short row, and the next unworked stitch on the needle. I would suggest that you place a locking stitch marker on each wrapped stitch, moving it with every row, so that you can see the division between worked and unworked stitches.
Another trick that will work with this pattern is to count the rows from the cast on edge. Starting at the cast on edge, an unworked stitch will only have five rows, where any worked stitch will have six or more rows.
Thanks for the great question, I'm sure these tips will help plenty of knitters who were confused by the short rows!
The decreases happen on both the right and left side of the back of the neck, but there are no decreases on the front of the cowl. One side has K2tog decreases, and the other SSK decreases creating two lines angling toward one another at the neck.
I love your idea for a cable! I would wait until the short rows section before starting the cable due to the decreases in the garter stitch border, but I think it would be a great addition to the design! The cowl is already densely knit, so the addition of a dense cable will not significantly change the drape of the cowl. The neck of the cowl does have a tendency to droop open a little, so I might consider working your cable over a k1, p1 rib to make it reversible.
This is a wonderful idea, thank-you so much for sharing it!
Row 5, knit 42 sts, w/t, do I go back to the beginning of the round to my marker, or do I go back 3 sts? I have watched your great tutorial on short rows and I think I have it except I don't know where to go once I've wrapped/turned.
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question.
Thank you for your interest in a crochet version of this pattern. It's not on the docket right now but we'll keep it in mind going forward. In the meantime all of our crochet patterns can be found here: http://www.purlbee.com/crochet-projects/
Thanks you for your question!
Soak is indeed the brand name of our favorite phosphate free fiber cleanser! It's available here: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/105-notions-tools-accessories?company=240
It really does soften things up and as an added bonus it smells great!
Thanks for your question!- Molly
Thinking I could add 10% more stitches, and would I then keep the same number of decreases? Hmmm... any help would be greatly appreciated.