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Tuesday
Oct252011

Laura's Loop: Short Row Sweater

As a young child, I remember my wonderfully elegant grandmother wearing her cardigans backwards with the first couple of buttons undone, creating a soft V dipping down from her shoulders. As an adult I turn to her back-revealing style still, as I love wearing her summer frocks from the 50s with cutouts that reveal the small of my back. 

The Short Row Sweater is my autumn ode to the grace and distinction of a bit of bare back. Knit in one piece, this wrap of a sweater is a half moon shape, folded around to create a sweeping crisscross in the back. I used the superlatively soft Blue Sky Sport Weight Alpaca for its draping ease and classic simplicity. 

I have thrown on this sweater with jeans and flats for some of my last outdoor brunches of the season. At night, I've worn a silk camisole underneath it. And I know that in just a few more short weeks, I'll be pairing it with a long sleeve nautically striped tee. Even layered, the crossed back adds just the right amount of feminine frolic to my step!

The Materials

The Pattern

Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Finished Dimensions

Sizes: XSmall/Small (Medium/Large)

Chest Circumference: 34 (38) inches

Length from Center Front Hem to Back Neck: 19 1/2 (22) inches

Pattern Notes

You will work a large portion of this piece in what is known as 'short rows'. You work back and forth, turning the work part way through each row instead of continuing to the end of the needle. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!

Begin

With the longer circular needle, cast on 306 (342) stitches

*K2, P2, repeat from * to end of row.

Continue in 2 x 2 rib until piece measure 3/4-inches from cast on edge.

Right Side (RS): K171 (K189), wrap and turn.

Wrong Side (WS): P36, wrap and turn.

RS: K36, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.

WS: P38, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn. 

RS: K40, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.

WS: P42, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row.

WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.

Separate for Armholes

RS: K42 (K54), place last 6 stitches on a holder, K102 (K114) place last 6 stitches on a holder, K36 (K48), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. (99, 111 stitches for Right Back. 6 stitches for each Underarm. 96, 108 stitches for Front. 99, 111 stitches for Left Back. This count includes all of the stitches on your needles, not just the stitches you have just worked. This count adds up to your Cast On number.)

The Right Back

Note: The Right Back is worked over just the next 99 (111) stitches with the row ending at the stitch holder.

WS: Purl across until you reach the stitch holder, turn your work.

RS: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.

WS: Purl.

RS: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this fashion. On the RS: knit up to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. On the WS: Purl. Ending with the WS row, purling across 96 (108)  stitches.

RS: K96 (K108), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K2.

WS: Purl.

Cut the yarn. Place all 99 (111) stitches on scrap yarn.

The Front

Notes: Before working the Front, place the Left Back stitches (the 99 (111) stitches to the right of the right stitch holder if RS facing) on either scrap yarn or your 16 inch circular needles. For the Front section, you will be working the 96 (108) stitches between the two stitch holders.

With the wrong side facing, join yarn and purl.

RS: Knit across.

Continue working in stockinette for 5 more rows, ending with a WS row.

Neck Shaping: the Front Right Side

RS: K45 (K51), bind off 6 stitches, knit to end. (90, 102 stitches)

Place the first 45 (51) stitches you knit on to scrap yarn or add them to the Left Back stitches on the 16 inch circular needle. (45, 51 stitches remain for Front Right Side)

WS: Purl across row until you reach bound off stitches.

RS: Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end. (41, 47 stitches)

WS: Purl.

Repeat previous two rows two more times. (33, 39 stitches)

RS: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end. (32, 38 stitches)

WS: Purl.

Repeat previous two rows five more times. (27, 33 stitches)

Work in stockinette until the right edge of the Front matches the length of the Right Back, ending on a WS row.

RS: K27 (K33), place marker, then knit across the 99 (111) stitches of the Right Back stitches. (126, 144 stitches) 

Cut yarn.

Neck Shaping: the Front Left Side

Note: You will now be shaping the Front Left Side of the neck, working 45 (51) stitches you previousl placed on hold. (If you haven't already, you can place the Left Back stitches on to scrap yarn, or if they don't bother you, you can work the Front stitches with the Left Back stitches on the needle.)

With RS facing, join yarn and knit knit until you reach the previously bound off stitches.

WS: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, purl to end. (41, 47 stitches)

RS: Knit.

Repeat previous two rows two more times. (33, 39 stitches)

WS: Bind off 1 stitch purlwise, purl to end. (32, 38 stitches)

RS: Knit.

Repeat previous two rows five more times. (27, 33 stitches)

Work in stockinette until the right edge of the Front matches the length of the Right Back, ending on a wrong side row.

Cut yarn.

Either place these 27 (33) stitches on scrap yarn, or keep them on the needle, being careful not to confuse them with the Left Back stitches you are about to work.

The Left Back

Note: You will now be working the 99 (111) stitches of the Left Back of the sweater.

With wrong side facing, joing new yarn.

WS: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.

RS: Knit.

WS: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.

RS: Knit.

Continue in this fashion. On the WS: purl up to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn. On the WS: knit across. Ending with the RS row, knitting across 96 (108)  stitches.

WS: P96 (108), pick up wrap and purl together with wrapped stitch, P2.

RS: K99 (111), place marker, then knit across the 27 (33) stitches of Front Left Side. (126, 144 stitches)

Do not cut yarn. Keep this ball attached, you will use it to pick up stitches for the neck line later.


Folding the Sweater

Place the 27 (33) stitches from the Front Left on a double pointed needle, removing the marker.

Place the 27 (33) stitches from the Front Right on a second double pointed needle, removing the marker.

Fold the Right Back behind the Front so that the edge aligns with the end stitches on the double pointed needle.

Fold the Left Back behind the Right Back, aligning their top and side edges.

Attaching the Right and Left Backs

Holding the two circular needles parallel, with the wrong side facing, join yarn purl across both needles at once. Here's how: With yarn in front, use the longer circular and insert the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle and then into the first stitch on the front needle. Purl the stitches together, pulling the needle back through both the front and back stitches.

The folded back sides of the sweater are now attached along their top edge. There are 99 (111) stitches on the longer circular needle.

Cut yarn leaving a 20 inch tail.

Lay the sweater flat, front side facing.

Attaching the Front and Back

First attach the Front Left Side and Left Back. Hold the double pointed needle and circular needle parallel. With a threaded tapestry needle, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the front to the back.

Next, flip your work so the back of the sweater is facing. Hold the circular needle parallel with the double pointed needle. With a tapestry needle threaded with the 20 inch tail you left, once again, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the back to the front.

Transfer the remaining 45 stitches to your 16 inch circular needle.

Pick up for the Neck

With attached ball of yarn and circular needle that is holding the 45 back of neck stitches, pick up 99 stitches evenly around the Neck. (144 stitches)

Place a stitch marker and working in the round, work in 2 x 2 rib for 4 rounds.

Bind off in 2 x 2 rib pattern.

Cut yarn.

Pick up for the Armholes

With the 16 inch circular needle, join new yarn and knit the 6 stitches from the underarm stitch holder. Then pick up 86 stitches evenly around the Armhold. (92 stitches)

Place a stitch marker and working in the round, work in 2 x 2 rib for 4 rounds.

Bind off in 2 x 2 rib pattern.

Repeat for second Armhole.

Weave in your ends. Block gently. You are finished!!!

Reader Comments (121)

I completed all work up until attaching the front and back sides, but I find that the sweater is extremely short! Is there anyway to give it some more length?
March 18, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterCatherine
Catherine, hi. Unfortunately where you are in the pattern, there is not a way to lengthen the sweater. If you were to start over, under the Begin section, when the pattern says to P36, you could purl less stitches. If you p34, you gain 2 more rows of length, if you purl 30, you'll gain 6 more rows of length, etc. In other words, the more short rows you do, the longer the sweater will be. Hope this helps. --Laura
March 19, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
This is just what I have been looking for but I would like to make it a bit more open with lighter weight yarns for summer.... Any suggestions on which yarn (summer weight) would work for this pattern?! It is gorgeous
April 25, 2012 | Unregistered Commenterkelly
Hi Kelly-

Any sport weight yarn will work fine. This Linen would be gorgeous:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals

As would this silk:
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw

Keep in mind that you will need 550 or 660yards, depending on the size you are knitting, in whatever yarn you choose.

Thanks for your question!

Molly
April 25, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I have been searching for information on short rows. In particular, I am knitting in the round on circular needles and I am having trouble picking up what would be the purl wrap and turn, but I end up approaching that stitch from the knitting side (as I am knitting every stitch) and cannot seem to hide the "holes" properly.

Please help.
June 24, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLinda Farnham
Hi Linda. I am not totally sure I understand how you are working your short rows in the round as typically short rows are done be knitting back and forth over a portion of the total number of stitches... that said... here is what I think about these 'holes'... I find when I am doing short rows, sometimes to hide the holes, it is just a matter of either knitting or purling (depending on what side you are on) through the back loop in order to twist the stitch and the picked up wrap. This will usually hide the hole. Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions. -Laura
June 24, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi,

I'm almost done with the sweater! Wahoo! I fell in love when I saw it and decided to try my hand at knitting a sweater. However, I just finished joining up the fronts and backs, but wanted to check before moving on to the neck and sleeve ribbing - what do I do with the 99 sts from the right back? I've got the 45sts from the left back to add onto the neck ribbing, but I'm not sure what to do with those 99 that just seem to be hanging there. Did I just miss something in the pattern? Any help would be great!

Katrina
June 28, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterKatrina
Hi Katrina.
I think you might have missed a step. Before you Attach the Front and Back, you have to Attatch the Right and Left Backs by work across both backs at once so that they become one and you are left with those 99 stitches. It is the step just before the Attaching the Front and Back. Let me know if you have any other questions! -Laura
July 2, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I recently knit this up for a friend's birthday and it looks AMAZING on her! I knit it in a kelly green with a lime green 2" stripe around the edge which gave it a neat effect when fully constructed and wrapped around the back. Of course, I had to try it on myself before giving away such a fun gift. Word of warning to those looking to start this project: it lays great on small chested gals, but not so much on the well endowed! Do you have any suggestions on adding darts to this pattern? Thanks!
July 10, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterStefanie
Hi Laura, I am knitting the M/L. I finished the 214 stitches and started separating for arm holes. I have the 108 stitches for the middle, and have 66 stitches for the Right Back and Left Back. I'm not sure where I went wrong. Any thoughts before I rip it all out?
July 30, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterANNA
Anna, I am not sure what happened. If you have 108 + 66 + 66 that is 240 stitches. Did you just go too far? -Laura
July 31, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura, Thank you for the lovely pattern! I am very excited about making the sweater. I have just finished the ribbing at the beginning.

There was a post earlier about making the sweater longer. As I have a very long torso, I think more length will be necessary. I have a couple of thoughts…

In the previous post you mention purling less stitches in the first row where you purl 36. If I use this method, I assume that I would also reduce the number of stitches I knit in the row with K171 (K 189) so that the short rows are centered in the middle?

Will this method make the centre longer and more pointy, instead of a wide curve at the bottom of the sweater?

I think I would really like to add a bit of length at multiple points along the torso – would it be possible to add an extra set of P and K rows with the same number of stitches (maybe 6 times evenly spread throughout the ‘Begin’ section and maybe a couple after the armholes are separated)? Or would this pucker the edges…?

Any thoughts would be very appreciated.
July 31, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterJodie
Hi Jodie.
You are exactly right. Starting the Wrap and Turns closer to the center of the Front (lessening the number of initial stitches between the W&T) will increase the length and consequently make the dip a bit more pointy. Right now there are approximately 6 inches of fabric that are knit straight across the bottom edge of the Front.

And yes, it is important to figure out how much you want to lessen that number and make sure to adjust the knit row above accordingly.

If you would like your sweater to be about an inch longer, than I would
K163 (181) rather than K171 (189). Your next row you would p20...
(This would give you about 3 inches across the bottom Front)

If you would like your sweater to be about 2 inches longer than I would
K159 (165) rather than K171 (189). Your next row you would p12...
(This would give you about 2 inches across the bottom Front)

To get it as long as possible, K153 (171). Your next row would p1...
(This would make the bottom front come to a slight point.)

I hope this helps. -Laura
August 2, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I'm just casting on for this sweater and have scanned the comments. Before i get too far along, have all the corrections to the pattern been adjusted (in the printed pattern) or will I find the corrections here in the comment section and adjust accordingly? Thanks!!
August 26, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterEileen
hi Laura

i just want to thank you for such a completely rad pattern. i finished it months ago and LOVE it. i can't wait for fall so i can start wearing it again. i actually have been hunting for some yarn to make a second one because i love it so much. i had to come back here and let you know!

thanks again
Laura
August 26, 2012 | Unregistered Commenterlaura
Hi Eileen.
Great question! All the corrections have been made to the pattern above.
Let me know how it goes!
Laura
August 27, 2012 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I am plus sized and really math challenged. Could you offer some suggestions that would allow me to make the bust 48 inches? I would be super-super grateful.

Thanks -

Eve
January 4, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterEve
Hi Eve,
The math for this pattern is fairly involved and at the moment we do not have the resources to re-write the pattern for more sizes. But... a quick way to adjust the pattern would be to knit it in a different gauge.

6 stitches to the inch gives us a 34 (38) inch chest circumference.

so... if you worked in a yarn that gave you 5 stitches, that would give us approximately 40 3/4 (45 1/2) inch chest circumference.

4 1/2 stitches to the inch would give us 45 1/3 (50 2/3) inch chest circumference.

4 stitches to the inch would give us 51 (57) inch circumference.

I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions at all. If you are curious about yarns of different gauges, you can search by gauge at purlsoho.com
Thank you for the interest in the pattern.
Best,
Laura
January 7, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I have reached the section 'Attaching right and left backs' do I just purl the 1 stitch as described or am I purling the back and front stitches together along the whole row?
January 15, 2013 | Unregistered Commenteremily
Hi Emily,
Great question. Yes, you are purling the back and front stitches together along the whole row.
Laura
January 17, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I've just realized I think garter stitch brings out the qualities of my nubbly yarn to my liking much more than stockinette. Am toying with the idea of ripping out and starting over, BUT before I do wanted to ask if there are any glaring reasons why that might not be a good idea? Would it change the measurements? This is my first sweater, so I'm not very well-versed in modifying patterns and such. Or perhaps I can just assemble with the purl side out...?

Love your creations, want to try them all =]
Thanks in advance!
January 17, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterTonichiwah
Hi Tonichiwah,
Garter is a beautiful stitch. A favorite for sure. It is however going to change the gauge of your fabric. If you wanted to do it in garter, I would do a swatch first and see how big the difference is. Perhaps making the smaller size (if you were originally making the larger) would compensate.

As for assembling with the purl side out... The pattern is written in a way that the stockinette side is the right side. The short rows are not as hidden on the purl side.

I hope this is helpful.
Please write back in with any other questions.
Laura
January 18, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura! I feel like I'm missing something very simple and silly here, but I'll ask anyway... In this section of the pattern -

"Continue in this pattern, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the wrap picked up, working one more stitch, wrapping and turning. Ending with a RS row."

am I to continue this for all of the cast on stitches? Thank you for your help! And thank you for such a lovely pattern!! -Jenna
January 20, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterJenna
Hi Jenna.
Thanks for the kind words. It means a lot.

This part of the pattern is a little tricky... If you take a look at the following line of instruction...

"WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn."

So you'll work, wrapping and turning, until you K176 (K212) and then you'll go to the next line of instructions.

I hope this clears things up. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
January 21, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Thank you so much!!! You have swooped in and saved the day :) -Jenna
January 21, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterJenna
Hi Laura,
I started this sweater after completing the bandana cowl (which I love!!!) and I'm concerned that I overdid it on the short rows.... In the cowl you do short rows until you've gone all the way around -- but is that the case here? I am confused about where to stop and now I'm worried I'm going to have to pull out some row (how would I do that without ruing everything/losing track of where I'm at?!?). Help!!
Thanks,
Riley Mae
January 29, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRiley Mae
Hi Riley Mae,
You do short row (if you can use that as a verb) for a while. But it is important to not go too far or you will pass the point at which to SEPARATE FOR THE ARMHOLES.

Under BEGIN, where it says "Continue this pattern..." then the following line of instruction reads...

"WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn."

So you don't want to work further than this or you'll miss your chance to do armholes.

I hope this clears things up. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Laura
January 30, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,
Thanks for your help! I guess what I'm wondering is how many I'm supposed to knit (before picking up the wrapped stich) in the row before to finish the short rows. Is it the same number? Sorry, I know I should know this!
Thanks,
Riley Mae
January 31, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRiley Mae
Hi again Riley Mae,

Sorry for not answering your question totally.

So you'll work, wrapping and turning, until you K176 (K212) and then you'll go to the next line of instructions:

WS: P178 (P214), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, P1, wrap and turn.

And then you'll be ready to Separate for the Armholes.
Please write me again if you have any other questions.
Laura
February 6, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I'm sorry to be such a pain, thank you so much for your help and patience! I have made it to the Left Back section and everything has been going wonderfully up until this point (now that I'm on my second try, that is) but I know I'm doing something wrong...I started off with 99 stitches just like it says and purled to the wrapped stitch, etc. But Instead of going down in number with each passing row I'm going up. This makes sense to me logically since I thought that is what short rows were supposed to do but the pattern says I should know be at 96 stitches when I am in fact at 102. I can't seem to figure out any other way to do this! Help?
Thanks,
Riley Mae
February 12, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRiley Mae
Hi Riley Mae,
I am stumped. I am not sure why you have 102 stitches all of a sudden.
Did the Right Back work out for you ok?
Can you describe to me a bit more about where you are / what the problem is?
Thanks,
Laura
February 19, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Yes the right back worked out okay... I guess my question is that we are supposed to start out with 99 and then do short rows and then somehow end up with less stitches instead of more...I am ending up with more stitches (102) instead of less (96) but I am confused because in the past, doing short rows has involved adding a stitch with each passing row, extending it longer each time. So that is what has been happening, but according to the count I should be actually decreasing with each short row...
Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it!
-Riley Mae
February 19, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRiley Mae
Hi Riley Mae.
I think I understand your question now. So. The 99 stitches is in reference to how many stitches you have on that needle, for that section of the sweater. It is not how many stitches you stitch right off the bad, but rather the number of stitches you will work up to working.

You start by joining the yarn on the wrong side and working up to the wrapped stitch (this is far fewer than 99 stitches), working they wrap with the wrapped stitch, working one more stitch and then wrapping and turning and knitting back. You will continue in this fashion (as you did for the Right Side) until you work 96 stitches before the wrapped stitch. Then there are line by line instructions to follow.

Does this help at all?
Please write me back if not!
Laura
February 20, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hello!
I love this sweater and it has been on my to-make list for quite some time. I have a lovely cotton I'd like to use for it, yet it is a DK weight yarn. I'd be a small following the normal gauge sizing. How do you recommend I modify my work, either with different needles or sizing down?
March 3, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterGem
Hi Gem.
This would be great in a cotton. The original was knit in a sport weight which isn't far off from a DK. What gauge are you getting with your cotton? If you can hit gauge and are happy with the fabric then just go for it. Cast on as directed. If your gauge is very different than the suggested... I would take the cast on number, 306 (342) and divide it by three (because the sweater is folded in thirds to finish it), divide that by your gauge and then multiply that by 2 to get the chest circumference...

for example:
306 (342) stitches / 3 = 102 (114) stitches across the front
102 (114) stitches / 6 stitches to the inch = 17 (19) inches across the front
17 (19) inches x 2 = 34 (38) circumference at bust

I hope this helps.
Please write me back with your gauge if you would like further assistance.
Thanks.
Laura
March 5, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
So beautiful !!!
Thank you for the pattern !!! I surely will try it !
:)))
April 3, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMamie-Thé
Hi eve, I'm adjusting the size to make a smaller version,l but can just as easily do the math and adjust it to 48" if you want to shoot me an email, I'd be happy to send you the complete pattern with the adjustments. beccalouise83@hotmail.co.uk
April 5, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterBecca
Hi Eve,

The math on this is actually fairly simple, I needed to make adjustments for a 30" and 28" I saw your request to Laura, so decided to adjust for a variety of sizes, if you'd like to shoot me an email, I can send you the complete pattern for a 48" bust.

beccalouise83 AT hotmail DOT co DOT uk

Becca
April 7, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterBecca
I have read all of these posts, but my problem is that I think this is going to turn out too long. I have measured the length at 21 inches and I believe I will have to keep knitting another 22 rows to achieve the goal of 214 stitches. I have measured the stitches and all appears accurate. Should I just start over? I love this pattern so much that I have purchased three different yarns to make 3 different sweaters. Thanks Nadia
May 24, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterNadia
Hi Nadia,
Hummm, you are the first one to have that issue with this pattern. How interesting. I have to ask... you're gauge is right? This pattern is based on stitch counts for it's construction. If you are on gauge, even if you rip it out and start over, I feel you will run into the same problem, unless you begin your short rows farter from center (that initial K171 (K189) and then P36 which is 18 stitches the past center of the front).

Let me know if you decide to rip it out and start over, we can figure out a different place for you to start doing your short rows.
Laura
May 30, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I did rip it out, and I will try it ONE MORE TIME, if it happens again, I will contact you, this was my first try at short rowing and I did measure the gauge and it was correct. I am determined to make this sweater, and thanks for answering my letter.
PS I used a Knit Picks yarn, sport weight 6 stitches=1 inch but of course the needle size was larger, could this be the issue?
May 31, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterNadia
Hi Nadia,
I think you found the culprit. That larger needle is probably effecting the row gauge.
Laura
June 4, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi,
I have started on this project and am up to separating for armholes section. Do I have to cut the yarn to keep knitting the next section?
Thank you,
Sarah
August 2, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterSarah
Hi Sarah,

No, you do not need to cut the yarn at this point.
Laura
August 5, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I am hoping to make this sweater longer as well, maybe a couple inches... I see some additional comments/answers regarding this but they all involve more short rows which would make the dip a little more dramatic. I really like the gentle curve and I am maybe a third of the way through the short rows, is there any other way to make it longer? Is it possible to intersperse some rows of knitting all stitches and purling all stitches or would that really bugger things up?
August 13, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMegan
Megan.
Hi. Yes, there is still a way to lengthen the piece.

After you pick up the wrapped stitch, you're instructed to work one stitch and then wrap and turn. If you do not work that one stitch, but rather wrap and turn immediately after picking up your wrapped stitch, you will be adding one extra row. Do this enough times and you'll have extra inches. This will change the smooth slope of the edge, but it is a way to get some length into your piece at the point you are at now. I would definitely do this before the armholes, or it may get very confusing keeping track of the armhole height, etc.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
August 14, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura - thanks so much. Can you provide me with a row gauge on this sweater to help me guesstimate how many rows to add?

Thanks.
August 15, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMegan
Hi Megan.
When I was stitching this sweater the row gauge was approximately 7 1/4 rows = 1 inch. The sweater is now on display at the shop in SoHo so I asked the girls there to double check for me. They came back with 7 1/2 rows = 1 inch. Alpaca is beautiful and heavy fiber. The sweater will bloom and stretch a bit lengthwise over time. Hope this helps.
-Laura
August 19, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi,

I got to this part and I am a bit confused:

SEPARATE FOR ARMHOLES
RS: K42 (K54), place last 6 stitches on a holder, K102 (K114) place last 6 stitches on a holder, K36 (K48), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked up wrap, K1, wrap and turn. (99, 111 stitches for Right Back. 6 stitches for each Underarm. 96, 108 stitches for Front. 99, 111 stitches for Left Back. This count includes all of the stitches on your needles, not just the stitches you have just worked. This count adds up to your Cast On number.)

My issue is that I am making the medium/large and with those numbers after I place the second stitch holder there are only 36 stitches till the turn not 48. Is this a mistake? I counted my stitches 3 times and all the other numbers seem fine. Any help would be great.
August 20, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterDaniella
Hello Daniella.
When you knit 54, did you put the PREVIOUS 6 stitches on a holder? or NEXT 6?
When you knit 114, did you put the PREVIOUS 6 stitches on a holder? or NEXT 6?

I think this might account for the missing stitches.
Laura
August 26, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee

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