Whit's Knits: Silken Straw Summer Sweater
I've always been surprised by knitters who put their needles down for the summer. How do they occupy their hands for those three months? I've wondered. Do they take up smoking? Even if I'd ever been able to break my knitting habit, I've never really seen a reason to. After all, some of nature's most beautiful fiber creations are best experienced on a hot day under the shade of a great big tree!
One of my all-time favorite summer yarns is Alchemy's Silken Straw. While I appreciate the gorgeous hand dyed color, what really makes Silken Straw so special is its one-of-a-kind texture. Rustic and elegant at the same time, Silken Straw is the perfect blend of country and city mouse. Plus its cool, crisp touch is just what I want when the thermometer is rising, never clingy or sticky!
The Silken Straw Summer Sweater is designed to cover you in just a whisper of silk. A slip of a sweater, its beauty is its understated grace and quiet confidence. Team it up with a camisole for dinner and a movie, or throw it over your bathing suit for a sea glass hunt. So simple to knit and so easy to wear, it's just like summer itself!
The Materials
- 4 skeins (for both sizes) of Alchemy's Silken Straw, 100% Silk. This color is "Cornflower Blue".
- A 24 inch, US #4 circular needle.
- Two US #4 double pointed needles.
- A stitch marker.
The Pattern
Gauge
Unblocked: 6 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette
Blocked: 6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette
Finished Sizes After Blocking
Small/Medium (Medium/Large)
Hip Circumference: 38 (42) inches
Chest Circumference: 36 1/2 (40 1/2 ) inches
Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 18 inches
NOTE: To adjust the sizing, the easiest thing to do is to alter the gauge. Silken Straw is very amenable to gauge variations! Just divide the cast on number by your stitch-per-inch number and you'll know the hip measurement. For example, if you're knitting at 5 1/2 blocked stitches to the inch and you follow the Medium/Large pattern, you'll end up with 45 3/4 inch hips (252 divided by 5.5 = 45.8).
The Body
With the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 228 (252) stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Knit every round until the piece measures 5 1/2 inches from the bottom edge (unroll the edge to measure).
Next round: K 114 (126), place marker, knit to end of round.
*Decrease Round 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, ssk, k1. (1 stitch decreased)
Decrease Round 2: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before first marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, knit to end of round. (3 stitches decreased)
Knit 7 rounds.**
Repeat from * to ** four more times. 208 (232) stitches
Knit 14 rounds.
*Increase Round 1: Knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1r), k1. (1 stitch increased)
Increase Round 2: K1, make 1 left (m1l), knit to 1 stitch before first marker, m1r, k1, slip marker, k1, m1l, knit to end of round. (3 stitches increased)
Knit 7 rounds. **
Repeat from * to ** two more times, ending last round 6 stitches before the end marker. 220 (244) stitches
Create Underarms
Bind off 12 stitches (removing marker), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, bind off 12 stitches (removing marker), knit 98 (110) stitches to first bind off. 196 (220) stitches
Cast On for Sleeves
Place a new beginning-of-round marker, use a cable cast on to cast on 60 (65) stitches, make sure the cast on isn't twisted and knit the next 98 (110) stitches to bind off, use a cable cast on to cast on 60 (65) stitches, and, again, make sure the cast on isn't twisted and, for the Medium/Large size knit to the end. For the Small/Medium Size, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. 315 (350) stitches
Yoke
Knit until the sleeve measures 2 inches from the cable cast on edge.
Decrease Round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 252 (280) stitches.
Knit until the sleeve measures 4 inches from the cable cast on edge.
Decrease Round: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 189 (210) stitches.
Knit until the sleeve measures 5 inches from the cable cast on edge.
Shaping Neckline
Round 1: K56 (63), bind off 18 stitches, knit to marker, remove marker, knit to beginning of neck bind off. 171 (192) stitches
Note: From now on you will be working back and forth in rows, with each row ending at the neckline.
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches, purl to end of row. 168 (189) stitches
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. 165 (186) stitches
Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, purl to end of row. 163 (184) stitches
Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, knit to end of row. 161 (182) stitches
Row 5: P1, p2tog, purl to the last 3 stitches, p2tog through the back loop (p2togtbl), p1. 159 (180) stitches
Row 6: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. 157 (178) stitches
Row 7: *P1, p2tog, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2togtbl, p1. 105 (119) stitches
Row 8: Repeat Row 6. 103 (117) stitches
Row 9: Purl.
Repeat Rows 8 and 9 two more times. 99 (113) stitches.
Bind off loosely.
Finishing
Cast 3 stitches onto a double pointed needle (for the neatest possible finishing, use a Provisional Cast On).
Knit an Attached I-cord around the bottom hem of the sweater, picking up 1 stitch for each cast on stitch. (When you are finished: If you used a provisional cast on, join the beginning and end of the I-cord with the Kitchener Stitch. If you just cast on normally, bind off the I-cord and sew the beginning and end together.)
In the same way, knit Attached I-cords to the sleeve edges and around the neckline. Pick up 1 stitch for each cast on or cast off stitch; and, along the neckline, for each edge stitch.
Block your finished sweater by first soaking it in room temperature water and a mild detergent (I love Soak because you don't have to rinse it!). Squeeze out the excess water first with your hands, then by rolling the sweater in a dry towel. Finally, lay your sweater flat on another dry towel. You'll notice that the sweater grows a bit when you block it and also that the silk really softens. Your sweater won't continue to grow each time you wash it, but it will continue to get softer and softer! Enjoy!
July 7, 2011
Reader Comments (43)
Thank you for your ceativity and sharing.
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Thanks!
Perfect timing! Laura just posted a very thorough tutorial on weaving in your ends! You can find it right here: http://www.purlbee.com/weaving-in-ends/ . In the case of this sweater, I used the diagonal method, which hid the tails very nicely. For extra measure, when I'm knitting in the round I try not to change yarns smack in the front of the sweater, but rather, I keep the tails at the sides or back.
Thank you so much for your question and good luck!
Whitney
I love the sweater, but it looks like there are very few colors of silken straw with enough skeins in stock. Can you recommend another yarn, or do you know when you will be getting more in stock?
THanks!
We have re-ordered the Silken Straw but are not sure exactly when it will be back in stock. If you'd like us to email you when it comes back please drop us a line at customerservice@purlsoho.com. This sweater would also work with 2 skeins of the 2 ply cashmere by jade sapphire: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/614-Jade-Sapphire-2-ply-Cashmere
or 2 skeins of their cashmere silk (which is on sale!)
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7754-Jade-Sapphire-2-ply-Cashmere-Silk
Thanks for your question!
thanks! lisa
http://landlocked-art.blogspot.com/2011/10/filed-under-finished.html
and in it's previous form here:
http://landlocked-art.blogspot.com/2011/09/taking-bamboo-from-panda-babies.html
Thank you so much!
Yes, instead of "casting on for the sleeves", you can knit whatever sleeves you like, and then before the "yoke" section, you would knit the sleeves right onto the body of the sweater. Our Deep V-Neck Sweater is constructed this way and shows photos of how to do it: http://www.purlbee.com/deep-v-neck-sweater/2012/1/22/whits-knits-deep-v-neck-sweater.html
A couple of tips: The length of the sleeve before you attach it is measured to the underarm (not to the top of the shoulder). Also, I would suggest that the finished stitch count of each sleeve be 72 or 77 depending on the size. Then make sure to cast off or put on hold 12 stitches for each underarm.
Please let me know if you encounter any questions along the way; I'd be happy to help!
Whitney
You use the circular needle that you're already working with to cable cast on the sleeve stitches. Once you've cast them on you attach them to the body simply by knitting into the first stitch on your left needle, which is the next available body stitch.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you're still stuck and we'll work at unsticking you!
Thanks!
Whitney
I like tops to hit right below my hips (at the widest part) ... where would the shirt hit if i followed this instruction: "knit until the piece measures 5 1/2" from the rolled out bottom)" ...? should i knit a little more if i want it a little bit longer?
thanks,
sarah
It totally depends on your size. The finished measurements are given under "Finished Sizes After Blocking" and should be able to tell you where the sweater will hit on your body.
If you do want to make it longer you are correct that you should add the extra length before you begin the shaping.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Thank you!
Molly
http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals
We think it would be beautiful in the Euroflax, since it is a similar gauge to the Silken Straw. If you give it a try please let us know how it goes.
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
Thanks
It is a very similar gauge so we think it would work beautifully for this pattern, but no one here at The Purl Bee has made it in the linen.
Thank you!
Molly
Barbara
Here is a link to a cable cast on tutorial: http://www.purlbee.com/cable-cast-on-tutorial/
Thank you!
Molly
I am a newbie who is determined to make my teen this lovely sweater.We're wondering whether we could omit the sleeves. Would that be all I had to do or would I have to emend the pattern in some other way?
Lovely website.
Thanks
Without the sleeves the stitches will no longer be in the round. Instead, you'd have a set of stitches for the front and another set of stitches for the back, which changes the pattern considerably.
Our Cowl Vest is actually constructed exactly like what you're talking about and would be a great reference! It's right here: http://www.purlbee.com/cowl-vest/2010/7/12/whits-knits-cowl-vest-1.html
Please let me know if I can help you figure it all out!
Thanks for your question and good luck!
Whitney
Thank you so much!
Ann
I think that you would lose the airiness if you knit the Silken Straw at the gauge you're suggesting. Instead, you might want to explore some other fingering or lace weight options. Here are some beauties that would be appropriate for 8 stitches to the inch and for warm weather:
Habu's Knitted Linen Tape: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8726-Habu-Textiles-Knitted-Linen-Tape
Habu's Paper Cotton: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8704-Habu-Textiles-Paper-Cotton
Anzula's Sebastian: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8197-Anzula-Sebastian
Anzula's Mermaid: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8321-Anzula-Mermaid
Otherwise, to change the pattern you could multiply your blocked gauge by your desired hip circumference and cast on that number of stitches. Place your marker for the waist shaping half way through the round. And make sure that at the end of casting on for the sleeves you have a total stitch count that is a multiple of seven. You'll have to change some other stitch counts and make other adjustments along the way, but if you're an experienced knitter, none of this should be very difficult because it's really a simple pattern!
Please let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!
Whitney
Thanks!
PS Your store is beautiful! I was visiting from Memphis this summer and bought the silk yarn in hot pink!
I used a long tail cast on. When I knit the Attached I-cord at the end, I just picked up into the cast on edge. If you have some idea about attaching the I-cord to live stitches, then I say go for it! Otherwise, the long tail cast on is a nice and easy way to start!
Thanks for your question and your enthusiasm! I'd love to see that hot pink sweater when you're done! - it sounds beautiful!
Whitney
We don't normally list the row gauge since it's proportionate to the stitch gauge, but we're happy to send the info along when someone asks! The row gauge for this size sweater is 7 rows to the inch, blocked.
I hope this helps sort out your gauge! Thanks for asking!
Whitney