Laura's Loop: Father and Son Knit Ties

When it comes to gifts for my dad and brothers, I often find myself stumped. Thanks to Page's Rolled Hem Handkercheifs, their pockets are chock-full of squares; and thanks to years of knitting, their heads and feet are warmed by piles of hats and socks. In need of a new go-to gift, the Father Son Knit Ties were born! 

Now, my dad and brothers aren't fancy men, but they are gentlemen of the southern variety. They don't flinch at dressing up, and somehow even their "casual" is always quite pulled together. I think these chic and simple hand knit ties will be right at home with their refined style, dressing up jeans and a sweater or adding a kick to slacks and a blazer.

I made these ties with two gorgeous yarns, Koigu's Premium Merino and Anzula's Sebastian: one matte and one shiny for  textural complexity and both with a sophisticated polish that makes these ties special!  The Father's Tie is in reverse stockinette with a handsome stripe, and the Son's Tie is a sweet and easy Fair Isle pattern. Both are delightful to make, for dads and brothers or yourself! And, just in time for Valentine's Day!

The Materials

• 1 skein of Anzula's Sebastian (70% superwash merino, 30% sea cell, 395 yards; color Seaside).
• 2 skeins of Koigu's Premium Merino (100% merino, 175 yards; color 2400). 
• Five US #2 double pointed needles

This is enough yarn for one Father's Tie and one Son's Tie. If you are making just one of the Son's Ties, you will only need 1 skein of each yarn, if you are making one of the Father's Ties, you will need 2 Koigu and 1 Sebastian.. The Father's Tie takes approximately 245 yards, and the Son's Tie takes approximately 150 yards. 

The Pattern: Son's Tie

Gauge

10 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Finished Dimensions

1 1/4-inches wide by 42-inches long

Notes

MC: Main Color; for this pattern it is the Sebastian Seaside

CC: Contrast Color; for this pattern it is the Koigu Black

Begin

Cast on 13 stitches with MC.

Set up Row: K1, *k1 but before removing it from the left-hand needle, bring the yarn to the front and purl that same stitch, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (24 stitches) 

Rearranging the Stitches

Do not turn your work. Slide the stitches to the right end of the double pointed needle. 

Holding two empty double pointed needles parallel to one another in your right hand, slip the first stitch onto the back needle, slip the second stitch onto the front, third onto the back, fourth onto the front, fifth onto the back. Continue in this fashion, slipping every even stitch onto the front needle and every odd stitch onto the back, until you have slipped all 24 stitches and there are 12 stitches on each needle.

Do not turn your work. Slide all the stitches to the right ends of the needles. Slip 6 stitches from the front needle onto a third double pointed needle, and slip 6 stitches from the back needle onto a fourth double pointed needle. With 6 stitches on each of four needles, use a fifth needle to begin working in the round. (After a few rounds when the work loosens up a bit, you may want to redistribute the stitches onto three needles.)

Work in the Round

* [K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Next Round: [K1, (k1 with CC, k3) 2 times, k1 with CC, k1, p1] 2 times.

[K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Next Round: [(K3, k1 with CC) two times, k3, p1] 2 times.

Repeat pattern from * until piece measures approximately 41 1/2 inches from cast on edge. Before you've knit too many inches, make sure to turn your tie inside out and weave in the tail of the contrast yarn. 

After your last row using the CC, cut yarn and weave in end.

[K11, p1] 2 times, for 6 rounds.

Rearranging the Stitches, Again

Slip the next 12 stitches onto one double pointed needle, and slip the remaining 12 stitches onto a second double pointed needle.

Hold the two needles parallel to one another in your left hand with the working yarn coming from the back needle. 

With a third needle, K1 off the back needle, k11 through both the next stitch on the front and the back needle, p1 off the front needle. (13 stitches)

Bind off purlwise.

Block, weave in your ends and you are finished!

The Pattern: Father's Tie

Gauge

10 stitches = 1 inch in reverse stockinette stitch

Finished Dimensions

1 3/8-inches wide by 56-inches long

Notes

MC: Main Color; for this pattern it is the Koigu Black

CC: Contrast Color; for this pattern it is the Sebastian Seaside

Begin

Using a Cable Cast On, cast on 16 stitches with MC.

Set up Row: K1, *k1 but do not remove it from the left needle, bring the yarn to the front and purl stitch, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (30 stitches)

Rearranging the Stitches 

Do not turn your work. Slide the stitches to the right end of the double pointed needle. 

Holding two empty double pointed needles parallel to one another in your right hand, slip the first stitch onto the front needle, slip the second stitch onto the back, third onto the front, fourth onto the back, fifth onto the front. Continue in this fashion, slipping every even stitch onto the back needle and every odd stitch onto the front, until you have slipped all 30 stitches and there are 15 stitches on each needle. 

Do not turn your work. Slide all the stitches to the right ends of the needles. Slip 7 stitches from the front needle onto a third double pointed needle, and slip 7 stitches from the back needle onto a fourth double pointed needle. With 7 stitches on each of two needles and 8 stitches on each of the other two needles, use a fifth needle to begin working in the round. (After a few rounds when the work loosens up a bit, you may want to redistribute the stitches onto three needles.)

Work in the Round

*[K1, p14] 2 times, for 11 rounds.

Next Round: [With CC, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, p14] 2 times.

Repeat from * until piece measures approximately 54 1/2 inches from cast on edge.

[K1, p14] 2 times, for 11 rounds.

Rearranging the Stitches, Again

Slip the next 15 stitches onto one double pointed needle, and slip the remaining 15 stitches onto a second double pointed needle.

Hold the two needles parallel to one another in your left hand with the working yarn coming from the back needle. 

With a third needle, K1 off the back needle, p14 through both the next stitch on the back and the front needle, k1 off the front needle. (16 stitches)

Bind off knitwise.

Block, weave in your ends and you are finished!

Comments

[Jessica Consunji]

oh my God - I love these ties ... but I can't knit :( It's on my to do list this year!! Any chance of a crochet version?? I can do that!!! That would be awesome ...

[Strix]

Regarding, "Rearranging the Stitches Again," at the end of the "Son's Tie," I'm getting the working yarn coming from the back needle? Unless the fabric is supposed to be inside out for this?

Very interesting cable cast on!

Thank you

[Rebecca]

How cool are these? I'm afraid they're out of my knitting league right now, but I'm definitely keeping them on my list. Have you considered putting them on Ravelry? Thanks!

[Ana]

Thank you very much for the great idea. :-)
I believe my husband will like these (he usually doesn't like ties.)

[purl bee]

Strix. You are right! the yarn should be coming from the back! Thank You. --Laura

[Victoria]

This is my first advanced knitting project. I am having a very difficult time after the cable cast-on part. Will every stitch be *k1 until the end? Meaning that I'll knit one without removing it from the needle and then purl one. Doubling my stitches? At the end, with 30 stitches, should it only be on 1 needle? Do you ever do video tutorials? I know it is much easier for a novice like me to actually see the knitting take place. Thank you so much for this tutorial, I hope I can pull it off!

[purl bee]

Hi Victoria. I am glad you are giving the ties a try! The first couple rows are unusual. It is a set up method typically used for double knitting. You are correct, though. Other than the first and last stitch, you will knit and purl into each stitch, doubling the number of those stitches.

We don't do video tutorials as of now, but it something that we have been discussing. Stay tuned. And good luck. -Laura

[janice white]

Love these ties and ordered seacell (excited to explore) for my project. Although I'm not an experienced dpn'r I can work 5 dpn's, but I am having a hard time with this 1st round. I have 6 stiches on 4 needles but cannot get them in the round? Any tips on getting them laid out right. Can u teach an old dog a new trick?

[janice]

I took your advice from the previous comment, and setup as a dbl knit with 12 stitches on each parallel needle and then broke it up into 4 needles with 6 stiches. It looks much nicer, but am I accomplishing what I need for this pattern? The seacell has arrived and I love it. Thanks to you I may have a very nice Valentines Day gift.

[purl bee]

Janice, I am so glad the Seacell arrived. It is a special yarn and I hope you feel it adds to the end product! As for the first rounds after dividing the stitches evenly... it is quite tight. In fact, the first couple rounds are going to be a little awkward. Work around your four needles as patiently as possible and I promise after that third or forth round, you will be cruising. After the sixth or so, you might even be ready to drop one of those double points and work the rest of the project using 4 total. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Best of luck! Thanks. Laura

[Catherine]

I just recently knit the son tie and started on the father one. It looks like the father is a little different from the son. With the son, after one casts on and does the row of knitting and purling into the same stitch, the next row calls for switching to parallel needles. Now the son says to start with the back needle first and the father says to start with the front needle first. Did you do that on purpose or is it errata? I only ask because starting on the back needle first causes the cast to be on the outside and starting on the front needle causes the cast on to be inside the tie. It's not a huge thing but I was curious if that was on purpose. Thanks so much!

[purl bee]

Hi Catherine! You have eagle eyes. That difference is intentional. The Father's Tie is in reverse stockinette, so, you want the purl stitches towards you and the knit stitches away from you, on the back needle. I hope you enjoy the pattern. You boys are going to look smashing! -Laura

[Christine]

I'm working on the dad's tie. You mention in the pattern that you need one skein of each for the dad's tie. But if the main color Koigu is 175 yards per skein, and it says 245 for the dad's tie, aren't I going to run out? Wondering if I should rush to get another Koigu in color 2400, although at this point it might be too late for the same dye lot... Thanks for all the great patterns.

[purl bee]

Christine- Goodness me. Thank you for this question. You are absolutely right. The Father Tie requires two skeins of Koigu! -Laura

[Jess]

Hi!

I love the father's tie but am pretty new to knitting. I managed to get all 4 needles set up, but I cannot figure out how to simply "start knitting in the round." Can anyone help??

1) How do I know which order to knit the needles in?
2) Do I strictly knit all stiches from 1 needle at a time? Because they're interlaced, it turns into a big knot after I try to knit more than twice. How do I slip the left loop without it getting caught in the interlaced ones?

Help!!
Thank you!!

[purl bee]

Hi Jess,
The set up for the ties are a pinch tricky if you have never worked in the round on double points before. I think this tutorial would really help you 'start knitting in the round' http://www.purlbee.com/double-pointed-needles-tutoria/

Thanks for writing in and pleas let us know if you have any more questions! --Laura

[Simone]

Hi, I'm working on the Father's tie, and I keep getting stuck right after I have split up the stitches onto 4 needles. I don't know how to organize the needles into a round shape to begin knitting in the round. Two needles share the same "spine," so how would I form the round? Also, is there a joining step that I'm missing?

[purl bee]

Hello Simone. Sorry the pattern is giving you trouble. There is no joining step that you are missing. Essentially, after this cast on you split the stitches into front stitches and back stitches then split each of these in to two, then knit around the 4 double points using a 5th double pointed needle. It will be tight and a bit uncomfortable for a couple rounds and then should start to take shape and ease a bit. Hope this helps --Laura

[Leah]

Hi. On the father's tie, I am just about to start using the CC, but I don't understand how to integrate the new color. I've tied it to my MC so that I can carry on the color, but slipping the stitch pwise wyib doesn't create a useable loop or anything...

Thanks

[purl bee]

Hi Leah, this step is a little tricky. I used the middle finger of my left hand to hold down the tail of the CC yarn while I continued to work the next few stitches to make sure a loop is created. Let me know if you have any more troubles. -Laura

[Michelle Hooker]

HI. I am also having trouble working in the round. I am fairly certain that I got the steps leading up to that right. The part I am confused about is how am I supposed to go about knitting in the round when my needles don't make a square. They are all just pointing up and down. I hope this makes since. I love this pattern and have tried multiple times to make it. I just can't seem to figure it out. I hope you can help!!

[purl bee]

Hi Again Michelle. (I saw your comment on the other page, thank you for the additional information). The first few rounds are quite tight. The key is to make sure you have your needles and stitches situated correctly. While initially the needles will not be able to make a square, after a few rows they will be. At the beginning, try to imagine them as making a square. Work across the two needles on the one side and then across the two needles on the oposite side. Continue doing this and very soon the piece will loosen a bit and your needles will feel less awkward and you'll be cruising knitting in the round.
I do hope this helps.
Laura

[Margaret]

Such a beautiful pattern and I'm giving it a shot! Am so confused when we start knitting in the round (have never done it on dpn). Am I supposed to join the round? And which direction do I start to knit? Im totally lost and any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

[purl bee]

Hi Margaret.
Thank you for the compliment. I am glad you like the ties. I will say the start of these is a little tricky, especially if you have not worked in the round on double pointed needles before. For a great tutorial, see this link: http://www.purlbee.com/double-pointed-needles-tutoria/
I think once you get the hang of knitting on double points, the ties will go up quite quickly! This is an unusual cast-on method, so there isn't a typical joining in the round, but yes you work in the round after re-organizing your stitches onto the 4 needles.
Please let me know if there is anything else I can try to help with.
Thanks for writing in,
Laura

[Emma]

My goodness these are taking me forever! Great pattern though. Mine might be a little thick. All I had were size 3 needles... had to make it work!

[Rachel]

I love these! They look a little advanced for me, but I'm going to give it a shot. I did want to ask, though, about the quantity of yarn. I'd like to make both ties, but I'd like both to be the longer length. It sounds like maybe I'd need an extra skein of each? Just wanted to check before I order.

Thanks!

[purl bee]

Hi Rachel-

I think you'll probably be OK just getting an extra skein of the Koigu and sticking with one skein of the Sebastian.

Thanks for your question!

Molly

[Alexis]

The concept behind the pattern is genius, purling in the round with a knit stitch on either end ensures that these look and feel like ties and not mere knitted strips! I do have a question: I want to gradually decrease the tie's width so I end up with a tail end that's narrower, any suggestions? I'm thinking of starting the decreases about half way through the pattern (I'm doing the father tie) and ending up with a narrower width of a little over 1 inch. Is there a neat way to do the decreases so I won't mess up the nice shape of the knit stitches?

Thanks so much!

I love the shop and all of the patterns throughout the years.

[purl bee]

Hi Alexis.
If I was going to decrease to narrow the tie I think I would do a ssk before the knit stitch and a k2tog after the knit stitch, on both sides of course.

There aren't too too many stitches to play with, so perhaps a decrease round ever few inches or so after you've done half of the tie.

I think it's a great idea.
Oh, another commenter suggested turning the Reversible Stripe Scarf into a tie, just for another tie idea: http://www.purlbee.com/reversible-stripes-scarf/

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura

[Angela S]

I love the ties and want to make the son's pattern and similar color; but for a size more like the father's. I am using the # of stitches for the father's. My problem is I can't figure out what to do after the cable cast on. I cast on 16 stitches. "set up Row" starts with one knitted stitch which remains in the same needle where the cable cast is, correct? after that when I *knit1 but do not remove it from the left needle; I think I get that, but when I "purl the stitch" it seems like the yarn gets all twisted. Is that correct? and then does it get pulled off to the needle on the right hand? or do all 30 stitches remain on the needle where the original 16 cable cast stitches are? I can't quite get this knit/purl combination. Please explain. Angela

[purl bee]

Hi Angela,
I am so glad you are doing this project. I am sorry for any frustration.

First of all... I removed the "cable cast on" portion of the first row. Just cast on with your preferred method. This was a typo, my apologies.

Next... For the Set Up Row... you knit the first stitch normally, then, you knit into the next stitch and before slipping it off the left-hand needle, you bring the yarn to the fron and purl into that same stitch, after that you slip it off the needle as normal.

Does that help clarify it at all? I will add some more description to this line of pattern if you would find it helpful.

Let me know how this goes and if the rest works out for you!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

[Angela S]

Thank you so much Laura! this really helps and I actually got off to a pretty good start. The pattern and the whole concept of starting the tie off already closed off on the bottom part is really clever. I also love how the sides are coming out! no tendency to twist or anything like that. I love the website too! Angela

[Joanna]

Hi!
I am almost finished with the fathers tie, and I have a question about one of the final steps, where it says "With a third needle, K1 off the back needle, p14 through both the next stitch on the back and the front needle, k1 off the front needle. (16 stitches)". Am i purling two stitches, one from each needle, together at the same time? Or one at a time alternating between needles? Will I be working with all stitches on only one needle after this step? Thanks so much for the help!!!
Joanna

[purl bee]

Hi Joanna.
You will purl two stitches together at the same time, one from the back need and one from the front needle. And, yes, you will be working with all the stitches on only one needle after this step.
You are so welcome for the help!
Please keep writing to us!
Laura

[purl bee]

Hi Linda.
This is an unusual cast on. It is usually used for double knitting, which isn't done here, but this technique does provide a nicely grafted-looking edge. Anyway...

Once you have divided your stitches across the 4 needles, you'll begin working with the stitch beyond where your working yarn is.

It is going to be uncomfortable for a few rounds, but it will improve.
Laura