Whit's Knits: Deep V-Neck Sweater
As anyone who has ever knit a sweater knows, it can be a real juggling act! With this Deep V-Neck Sweater, I had the happy and lucky experience of somehow, someway managing to keep all the balls in the air. A seamless set-in sleeve pattern, a spectacularly seductive yarn and a very forgiving fit, all conspired to work together in beautiful harmony!
While set-in sleeves are perhaps the most flattering sweater construction, they traditionally involve the dreaded last step of laboriously sewing together all those pesky pieces. Determined to avoid that tedium, I embarked on this project armed with a few vague notes from Elizabeth Zimmermann and a cannot-fail doggedness (sound familiar, knitters?). Turns out a seamless set-in sleeve sweater is not only possible, it's fascinating and absolutely easy!
And what about that incredible yarn? Alchemy's Kozmos is an extraordinary blend of silk, mohair, wool and cotton, all hand dyed together to create a fuzzy, shiny, nubbly complexity of color and texture. It is this sweater's magic ingredient, infusing it with a truly unique flavor, expressive, elegant and very feminine.
The Materials
- 6 skeins of Alchemy Kozmos, 30% Silk, 26% Mohair, 13% Wool, 31% Cotton. This color is Platinum.
- A US #8, 24 inch circular needle
- A US #8, 12 inch circular needle
- 2 double pointed needles, any size equal to or smaller than US #8
- 4 stitch holders
- 4 stitch markers
- OPTIONAL: For a snugger fit around the waist and arm bands, use US #7 circular needles for the ribbing (24 inch for the waist and 12 inch for the sleeves). I didn't do this, but next time I would consider it. It just depends on your body and taste!
The Pattern
Gauge
For Size Small: 5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
For Size Medium: 4.75 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch (This is the size pictured in the pattern.)
For Size Large: 4.5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Finished Sizes
Small (Medium, Large)
Waist Circumference: 36 (38, 40) inches
From Shoulder to Shoulder Across the Back: 14 (14 3/4, 15 1/2 inches
From Bottom Edge to Underarm: 13 inches (with directions on how to vary)
Pattern Note
You will be asked to "purl 2 together through the back loop" (p2tog tbl). Here's how:
1. Slip the first 2 stitches knitwise from the left needle to the right needle.
2. Slip them back onto the left needle, maintaining their orientation. These 2 stitches are now on the left needle in a twisted position.
Reach your right needle around to the knit side of the work and insert the tip through the back of the second stitch and then through the first.
Now bring the tip of the right needle to the front of the work and purl together those two stitches.
That's it! Now...
Begin
With the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 180 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6 inches from cast on edge (or whatever your measurement is from the bottom of your hip bone to the middle of your waist).
Next Round: Knit 41, place a marker (pm), p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Next Round: Knit to first marker, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat last round 4 more times.
Shaping the V
NOTE: For the rest of the sweater, you will be working back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Preparation Row (right side): Remove the end-of-the-round marker, knit to first marker, remove marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, turn the work so the purl side is facing you.
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (2 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times.
Repeat Rows 1-4 eight more times. 162 stitches
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. 160 stitches
Separate for Armholes
Row 1: [P1, k1] 2 times, p 37, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, p 90, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. 29 stitches for each front and 78 stitches for the back.
Set the body aside.
Right Sleeve
With the 12 inch circular needle and a new ball of yarn, cast on 64 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 5 inches from cast on edge.
Knit for 1 1/2 inches.
Next Round: K 6, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder (removing the marker), cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail. 52 stitches
Attach the Right Sleeve
Now return to the body with the right side facing, [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first stitch holder, pm.
Situating the underarm stitch holders (one from the body and one from the sleeve) so that they are parallel and next to each other...
...knit across the right sleeve stitches, pm, knit across the back stitches to next stitch holder.
Set the body aside.
Make and Attach Left Sleeve
Make the left sleeve identical to the right sleeve.
Returning to the body, pm, situate the stitch holders parallel to each other and knit the left sleeve stitches, pm, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. 240 total stitches: 29 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 78 stitches for the back.
Begin Working Set-In Sleeves
NOTE: Instead of every 4 rows, from now on you will decrease for the V-neck every 6 rows. Don't worry, the pattern will let you know!
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl (see Pattern Note above), purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1,p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
222 total stitches: 24 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 70 stitches for the back.
Decreasing the Sleeve Stitches
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 26 sleeve stitches remain for each sleeve, ending with Row 2. 162 total stitches: 20 stitches for each front, 26 stitches for each sleeve, 70 stitches for the back.
Accelerate the Sleeve Decreases
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 10 sleeve stitches remain, ending with Row 2. 128 total stitches: 19 for each front, 10 for each sleeve, and 70 for the back.
The Left Front
NOTE: For this section you will be working the left front stitches and half of the left sleeve stitches only. You will also no longer be decreasing for the V-Neck.
Row 1 (ws): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog. 1 stitch decreased. Turn the work so the right side is facing you and work back over these same stitches.
Row 2 (rs): Knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
The next row finishes the left front and starts the back...
Next Row: [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, slip marker, purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog. Turn work so knit side is facing you. 122 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 5 for left sleeve, 9 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
The Back
NOTE: Now you will be working back and forth on just the back stitches and some of the sleeve stitches.
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 2nd marker, slip marker, k2. Turn work.
Row 2 (ws): P2tog tbl, purl to 2nd marker, slip marker, p2tog. 2 stitches decreased. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. 116 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 2 for left sleeve, 6 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
Raising the Back with Short Rows
Now you're going to work short rows over just the back stitches. Click here for a great Short Row Tutorial to help you through!
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 5 stitches before 2nd marker, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to 5 stitches before next marker, wrap and turn.
Row 3: Knit to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 4: Purl to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Repeat Row 3.
Next Row (ws): Purl to the last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wraps as you work, [k1, p1] 2 times. (Don't worry that you picked up only half of the wrapped stitches. We'll get to the other half later! It's also okay that there is one fewer wrap on the right than on the left. No one will ever know!)
The Right Front
Now working just the stitches of the right front and some of the stitches of the right sleeve...
Row 1 (rs): [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk. 1 stitch decreased. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Next Row: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wrapped stitches as you work. Place the last 4 stitches of the row on scrap yarn. 112 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front (including 4 on hold), 2 for each sleeve and 70 for the back.
Grafting the Shoulders
Slip the first 16 stitches onto a double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker).
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the left front to the back.
With the right side facing you and using a double pointed needle, join a new yarn to the right front.
Bind off 4 stitches in k1, p1 pattern.
Slip the next 15 stitches onto this same double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker). (You should have 16 stitches on the needle.)
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the right front to the back. 40 stitches remain for the back.
Finishing the Neckband
Slip the 4 edge stitches from the scrap yarn onto a double pointed needle.
With the right side facing you and joining new yarn, use the circular needle (that is holding the back stitches) to pick up 1 stitch from between the ribbing and the back stitches.
Still using the circular needle, slip 1 stitch from the neck ribbing and pass the picked up stitch over, k1, p1, k1. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Now using just the circular needle...
Row 1 (ws): P1, k1, p1, k2tog (the last stitch of the ribbing with the first stitch of the back). Turn work.
Row 2 (rs): Slip the first back stitch from the right needle onto the left needle, p2tog (the slipped stitch and the first stitch of the ribbing), k1, p1, k1. Turn work.
Repeat the last 2 rows until all of the back stitches have been knit, ending with Row 2.
Next Row (ws): P1, k1, p1, slip 1, keep the yarn in front and pick up a stitch from between the back and the right front ribbing (insert the right needle from the right side of the work to the wrong side and purl the stitch to pick it up), pass the slipped stitch over.
Next Row (rs): Bind off in p1, k1 pattern.
Cut the yarn, leaving a 12 inch tail.
Sew the two bound off edges of the ribbing together.
Finishing
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarms together.
Weave in all the ends and gently block. You're all done!
January 22, 2012
Reader Comments (26)
We don't have a picture of it on a human but we have tried it on and it looks great over a camisole.
Thanks for your question.
Molly
We have so many beautiful choices! Here's a link to our "worsted weight" yarns: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters[]=6 .
If you let me know what gauge/size you're thinking of knitting, I'd be happy to steer you toward some of my favorites!
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
I bought all the yarn to start my sweater! I just have some questions about the size. I usually wear an XS, but I'm a curvy XS. Did you measure the body circumference at the bust, waist, or hip? When the sweater is laying flat, does it have a natural curve to the waist or fairly straight? I'm debating on sticking to your S pattern or moving down a couple needle sizes for a smaller fit. I love this sweater, I just want to be sure that it's fitted, but not too tight in the bust.
Thank you for your input!
The "Body Circumference" is measured at the waist, right below where the V-neck starts (actually, I just changed the pattern to say "Waist Circumference" instead!). This number should be about 2-3 inches bigger than your actual waist measurement.
I didn't size this sweater around the chest because the wide V-neck makes that measurement a bit misleading. But for your information, the fabric at the chest (measured right under the arms) is 32 inches for the small size. Just remember that there is a generous opening right there and that the chest sizing is very flexible!
And to answer your question about the "natural curve to the waist", the only shaping throughout the sweater is creating by the natural pulling in of the ribbing. To create a more dramatic curve, I would suggest knitting the ribbing on a smaller needle.
Having said all that, I would say that generally speaking this sweater fits quite true to size and that if your only concern is the chest being too tight, I would probably go ahead with the XS size.
Good luck and please let us know if you have any more question!
Thanks!
Whitney
Yes you adjust the needle size to change the gauge.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Row 1: [P1, k1] 2 times, p 37, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, p 90, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. 29 stitches for each front and 78 stitches for the back.
I am confused here. Are you suppose to p 37 and then put the last 12 stitches of the 37 you just purled on a stitch holder?If so... How do you continue purling the next 90. This is my first sweater.
Yes, you do purl 37 and then put the last 12 of the 37 on hold. You continue purling just by putting your right needle into the next stitch on the left needle and purling! The yarn will be coming from the last stitch on the stitch holder.
I hope this clarifies things for you. Please let us know if you need more help!
Thanks,
Whitney
I'm sorry for not answering your question earlier, Lily. I thought I had! And thank you, Stewart, for reminding me! It sounds like you've figured it out, but for Lily and whoever else might need more clarification:
When you attach the sleeves you only knit the sleeve stitches that are on the knitting needle. You don't touch the underarm stitches that are on the holders until the very end when you graft them together.
Thank you both for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Beautiful pattern!
Cute pattern! I haven't tried EZ's set-in sleeve yet, but I plan to soon.
Yes, p2tog tbl is the same as a slip slip purl. Good point! I'll add the piece of information to our tutorial right now!
Thanks!
Whitney
I think if you check out our Purl 2 Together Through the Back Loop Tutorial (http://www.purlbee.com/decrease-purl-2-together-tbl-p/2012/3/16/decrease-purl-2-together-through-back-loop-p2tog-tbl.html), you'll see the same method you used to make your SSP...?
Since there's never any circumstance I would just purl 2 together through the back loop without slipping the stitches first, I just think of the p2tog tbl and ssk as the same thing. And in researching the question, I have found that the terms p2tog tbl and ssp are often used interchangeably because both are left leaning on the right side (ie the knit side).
I'd love to hear back from you to know if we're on the same page. If so, then I think to avoid confusion we should rename our tutorial to include the term SSP. What do you think?
Thank you so much for this potentially important (and interesting!) observation!
Whitney
Although I have a question reguarding the sizing... For a size small, do I cast on less stitches, if so, how many?
The smaller size is knit exactly the same, just in a smaller gauge. As long as you make sure that you are getting the correct gauge you should be fine.
Thank you!
Molly
I'm pretty sure I'm just not seeing it, but where it says
"Knit to 2nd marker, slip marker, k2. Turn work."
Does it mean when you knit through the first marker on the right sleeve, knit the back and then the next marker on the back and left sleeve?
OR
knit through the back to the 2 markers on the left sleeve?
I think if I had to choose one of your interpretations, it would be the first, but I'm not entirely sure, so here's a further explanation:
The "second marker" is the one that marks the back left shoulder.
You should have ended the previous row by slipping the back right shoulder marker, purling 2 together and turning. The Back section starts there, at the back right shoulder marker, and to continue, you knit past it to the back left shoulder marker, slip it, k2 and turn the work. Does this clear things up for you?
Please let me know if you need nay more help and thank you for your question!
Whitney
Thank you!
I didn't include a bust size because the wide V-opening makes the fitting so flexible in the chest.
But I can tell you that at the underarm, you have 160 stitches, which at 5 stitches to the inch, is 32 inches. And keep in mind that there is also a 4-inch wide opening at that point.
I hope this answers your question. Please let us know if you have any others and good luck!
Whitney