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Sunday
Jun102012

Laura's Loop: Everyday Linen Raglan

Growing up as the sister of two older brothers, to say I was a tomboy is a bit of an understatement. I was one of the boys! While my girlfriends were playing softball, I insisted on being in the all-boys baseball league. My 'Sunday's Best' consisted of hand-me-down golf shirts, khaki pants and bucks. I blindly and adoringly echoed my brothers' every move. If they wouldn't wear it (or do it or like it), well then, neither would I.

So for those who knew me back then, my current love for linen dresses and fancy clutches, cashmere wraps and backless sweaters, floral hankies and pretty much all things fem is something of a shock. Yet while my style has drastically shifted, those tomboy roots do run deep. Put me in jeans and a t-shirt and I am one happy camper. Put me in jeans and a linen shirt, and I'm in heaven! 

This lightweight, 3/4-sleeve raglan top harkens back to sunny days at the ball park, but with the natural elegance and drape of 100% linen. It's the best of both worlds, classic and casual for everyday, but not without a pinch of feminine subtlety. 

Knit up in Euroflax's beautiful sportweight linen, this favorite yarn of mine pairs a rugged durability with a chic grace, a duality I have come to greatly appreciate!

The Materials

The Pattern

Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, blocked 

Sizes

Small/Medium (Medium/Large)

Finished Dimensions After Blocking

Hip Circumference: 31 (34) inches

Chest Circumference: 36 (40) inches

Bottom Hem to Underarm: 12 1/2 (13 3/4) inches

Cuff to Underarm: 12 inches 

Sleeves

NOTE: If you are long-limbed, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row. 

Using the double pointed needles, cast on 57 (60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. 

Purl 8 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [59 (62) stitches]

**Knit 7 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [61 (64) stitches]

Repeat from ** 10 more times. [81 (84)  stitches]

Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and put aside.

Make a second sleeve identical to the first. 

Begin Body

With the 24 inch circular needle, use the provisional cast on method to cast on 188 (208) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit 16 rounds.

Hem the Bottom

Use the extra circular needle to pick up the cast on stitches. Once the cast on stitches are on the new needle, fold the fabric towards you so the knit sides are facing each other and the purl side of the hem is on the outside (the right side of the sweater should also be facing you). Holding the two left needles parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front needle together with 1 stitch from the back needle. Repeat to end of round. [188 (208) stitches]

Shape the Back Tail

NOTE: The back of the sweater has a slight dip formed by using Short Rows (working back and forth, turning the work part way through each round instead of continuing to the end of the needle). This portion of the pattern is optional. If you would like your sweater to be even across the bottom, skip ahead to the Body section below. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!

Row 1 (right side): K94 (104), place marker, k71 (81), wrap and turn.

Row 2 (wrong side):  P48 (58), wrap and turn.

Row 3: K48 (58), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: P50 (60), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Row 5: K52 (62), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 6: P54 (64), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this fashion, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the picked-up wrap, working one more stitch and then wrapping and turning. End with the wrong side row that starts with purling 90 (100).

Next Row (rs): K92 (102), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap.

Now continuing to work in the round again.

Next Round: Knit to 1 stitch past the next marker, pick up wrap on next stitch (this time knitting the wrap and stitch together through back loop), knit to end of round.

Body

NOTE: If you are long waisted, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

**Knit 10 (11) rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to marker, m1R, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to end of round, m1R. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat from ** 7 more times. [220 (240) stitches]

Knit 10 (11) rounds (or number required to reach desired length from bottom hem to underarm).

Attaching the Sleeves

Knit to first marker, slip marker, knit across 81 (84) sleeve stitches, place marker, knit to end of round, place marker, knit across 81 (84) stitches of the second sleeve. [81 (84) stitches for each sleeve, 110 (120) stitches for front and back. 382 (408) total stitches]      

Shape the Raglan

Decrease Round: *P1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. (8 stitches decreased)

Next Round: *P1, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last two rounds 12 (13) more times. [55 (56) stitches for each sleeve, 84 (92) stitches for front and back; 278 (296) total stitches]

Shape the V

NOTES: 

  • Make one stitch purl-wise (m1 purl-wise): Pick up the strand between the last and next stitch from the back and purl through the front loop.
  • Slipped stitches are done purl-wise.

ERRATA:

  • December 29, 2013: For size Medium/Large, the Front stitches knit on either side of the "V" were corrected to coordinate with stitch counts.

Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (40), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [53 (54) stitches for each sleeve, 82 (90) stitches for back, 80 (88) stitches for front; 268 (286) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k37 (41), slip 1 (sl1), p2, sl1, k37 (41), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 2: P1, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, m1 purl-wise (see note above), p2, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k34 (38), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [51 (52) stitches for each sleeve, 80 (88) stitches for back, 78 (86) stitches for front; 260 (278) total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k35 (39), sl1, p4, sl1, k35 (39), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 3: P1, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p4, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k32 (36), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [49 (50) stitches for each sleeve, 78 (86) stitches for back, 76 (84) stitches for front; 252 (270)  total stitches]

Next Round: P1, k33 (37), sl1, p6, sl1, k33 (37), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 4: P1, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p6, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k30 (34), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [47 (48) stitches for each sleeve, 76 (84) stitches for back, 74 (82) stitches for front; 244 (262) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k31 (35), sl1, p8, sl1, k31 (35), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 

Decrease Round 5: P1, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p8, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k28 (32), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [45 (46) stitches for each sleeve, 74 (82) stitches for back, 72 (80) stitches for front; 236 (254) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k29 (33), sl1, p10, sl1, k29 (33), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 6: P1, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p10, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k26 (30), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [43 (44) stitches for each sleeve, 72 (80) stitches for back, 70 (78) stitches for front; 228, (246) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k27 (31), sl1, p12, sl1, k27 (31), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 7: P1, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p12, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k24 (28), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [41 (42) stitches for each sleeve, 70 (78) stitches for back, 68 (76) stitches for front; 220 (238) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k25 (29), sl1, p14, sl1, k25 (29), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 8: P1, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p14, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k22 (26), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [39 (40) stitches for each sleeve, 68 (76) stitches for back, 66 (74) stitches for front; 212 (230) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k23 (27), sl1, p16, sl1, k23 (27), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 9: P1, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p16, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k20 (24), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [37 (38) stitches for each sleeve, 66 (74) stitches for back, 64 (72) stitches for front; 204 (222) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k21 (25), sl1, p18, sl1, k21 (25), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 10: P1, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p18, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k18 (22), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [35 (36) stitches for each sleeve, 64 (72) stitches for back, 62 (70) stitches for front; 196 (214) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k19 (23), sl1, p20, sl1, k19 (23), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 11: P1, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p20, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k16 (20), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [33 (34) stitches for each sleeve, 62 (70) stitches for back, 60 (68) stitches for front; 188 (206) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k17 (21), sl1, p22, sl1, k17 (21), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 12: P1, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p22, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14 (18), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [31 (32) stitches for each sleeve, 60 (68) stitches for back, 58 (66) stitches for front; 180 (198) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k15 (19), sl1, p24, sl1, k15 (19), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 13: P1, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p24, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k12 (16), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [29 (30) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (66) stitches for back, 56 (64) stitches for front; 172 (190) stitches]

Next Round: P1, k13 (17), sl1, p26 , sl1, k13 (17), p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Medium/Large Size Only

Decrease Round 14: P1, k2tog, k14, ssk, m1 purl-wise, p26, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14, ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. [28 stitches for each sleeve, 64 stitches for back, 62 stitches for front; 182 stitches]

Next Round: P1, k14, sl1, p28, sl1, k14, p1, slip marker, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Both Sizes

[29 (28) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (64) stitches for back, 56 (62) stitches for front; 172 (182) total stitches]

Collar

Next Round: Purl, placing a removable stitch marker on the first stitch of the round.

Next Round: Knit.

Decrease Round: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)

Repeat last two rounds two more times. [148 (158) stitches]

Next Round: Knit.

Increase Round: *K1, m1L, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches increased)

Next Round: Knit.

Repeat last two rounds. [164 (174) stitches]

Repeat Increase Round. [172 (182) stitches]

Hem the Collar

*With the right side facing you, use a double pointed needle to pick up the first stitch of the purl round (the marked stitch) 12 rows below. Holding the double point and left needle parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front  (double pointed) needle together with 1 stitch from the back (circular) needle. Repeat from * to end of round.

Finishing Up 

Bind off in stockinette.

Weave in your ends.

Block heavily to even out any tension inconsistencies and to get the beautiful drape of linen.

Reader Comments (82)

Hello,

I'm loving the pattern thus far but my sleeves look massive and wide. I've worked 6 1/2 inches in length but am already at a 12 inch circumference. There are no indications on the width of the sleeves. Are they meant to be that wide? I'm working in Euroflax and have actually gone down to a 3.5mm needle. If they are meant to be that wide is there any way I could make them narrower by casting on fewer stitches at the cuff?
Help svp.

Big Thanks all the way from Dubai!

G.
February 24, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterGazelle
Hi Gazelle,
At 57 (60) stitches the cast on of the sleeve, it should measure 9 1/2 (10) inches in circumference. Ending at 81 (84) stitches, it should measure 13 1/2 (14) inches in circumference.

This is just shy of a 3/4 length sleeve. Were you trying to make it to be to the wrist?
Pleas let me know if this helps clear things up or if you have more questions!!
Laura
February 26, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I have never knit a sweater that fit successfully before and I finished this sweater this morning... I'm thrilled! I can't wait to share my success with everyone! Thanks for the incredibly clear instructions and the beautiful pattern!
March 31, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterCayla
Laura, how much design ease did you build into this pattern? I'm going to need to modify it, and it would be useful to know what percentage to add to my body measurements for wearing ease.

Thanks. I'm eager to get started!
June 30, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMary Ann
Hi Mary Ann,
Great question. The dimensions above are the measurements of the finished product. It is designed to have a positive ease of around 2 inches. It is meant to fit, but not tightly. Our dress form has a 34-inch bust and is wearing the smaller size which has a 36-inch circumference. Does this help? Hope you enjoy the pattern. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
July 1, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I just finished "shaping the raglan" and should have 82 stitches on the front and back but instead have 110. Was I to decrease on the body portion as well as the sleeve portion? My sleeve stitches seemed to work out alright since they are 55 stitches. Have I missed something obvious?
July 17, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMonica
Hi Laura,

I am really excited about starting this pullover! One question though — Do the sleeves have a hem like the bottom edge of the sweater. It looks like it from some of the pictures, but I don't see a provisional cast on for them. What did you do?

Thanks,

Polly
July 21, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterPolly Brown
Hi Monica.
Oh dear. Yes, you were to decrease on the fronts and backs as well as on the sleeves. You decrease on either side of each of the stitch markers.

This should fix that pesky stitch count straight away.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
July 22, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,
I've got through most of this sweater fine, but I'm having some trouble with the "shaping the V" section. I'm getting gaps on either side of the V, particularly the right hand side. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!
Emily
July 28, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterEmily
Hi Polly,
The sleeve do not have a hem like the bottom, They are simply worked in reverse stockinette stitch for a few rows.
Thanks,
Laura
July 29, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Emily.
I am not sure where the holes are coming from. Are you familiar with ssk and k2tog? When you ssk do you slip your stitches knitwise or purlwise. I tend do slip the first one knitwise and the second purlwise, but both knitwise is also great for a more seamless look.
Laura
July 29, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
July 31,2013

I've started to knit this with Madelinetosh Pashmina. I am in love with the pattern so far. But for future patterns it would be nice if we knew about how much yarn you had left. For the super tall and long limbed girls its nice to know if we need to buy an extra skein or if we will have enough yarn. For every pattern I've used from the site I've bought an extra skein to add 2-3" on the arms and typically around 4" to the bodice and not had to use it all that often.

just a suggestion, but great pattern by the way. Cant wait for the fall so I can wear it.
July 31, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea
Andrea,
Wonderful suggestion. I'll let our team here on the Purl Bee know your thoughts!
Laura
August 2, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
In Shape the V section, each row is missing "slip marker, P1" after the P1 in the pattern directions after the initial v portion. In the * portion of each row instruction: "*p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round." . Am I missing something or is the direction correct as written?
August 16, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterJenna Kirkum
Hi Jenna,
Thank you for writing in. I have corrected the pattern!

There was a "p1, slip marker," missing before the * in every other round of instructions under Shaping the V.

I really appreciate you taking the time to write in. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Best.
Laura
August 19, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,

I've knitted the sleeves&the body,yet when I try to attach the sleeves to the body there seem to be gaping holes on both sides of the armpit. Is there a way to avoid that? Thanks in advance,

Regards,Ferah
August 29, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterFerah
Hello Ferah,
Great question. I had the same holes. I closed these holes at the end when I wove in my ends.
Thanks,
Laura
September 3, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi there,

I love this pattern! I'm so excited to be almost done just in time for fall.

I'm at the 'shape the V section' and I have a question about the 'make 1 purl wise'. The 'slip one purl wise' leaves a long bar that could be picked up in making that sitch, is that the intention or should one use the regular bar between stitches to 'make 1 purl wise'?

Thank you so much!
Alanna
September 16, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterAlanna
Hi Alanna,
I'm so glad you like the pattern!
I used the regular bar between stitches.
Thanks.
Laura
September 16, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi, I knitted this in linen and loved it! It was my first "no sew" knitted sweater. I was wondering if I could knit it as written in your Purl Soho line weight yarn or would I need to modify it since the yarn is fingerling weight instead of sport?

Thanks,
Jennie
November 2, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterJennie
Hi Jennie.
I am thrilled to hear you enjoyed this pattern. I think the Line Weight is going to be a tad on the thin side. Line Weight at 6 stitches to the inch would be a very loose looking/feeling fabric. How about...
Blue Sky's Sport Weigh in Solidst: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/714-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Solids
or in Melange: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1105-Blue-Sky-100-Sport-Weight-Alpaca-Melanges
Blue Sky's Alpaca Silk: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/722-Blue-Sky-Alpaca-Silk
Madeline Tosh Light: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7957-Madelinetosh-Tosh-Merino-Light
Anzula Cricket: http://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8710-Anzula-Cricket

Let me know if you have any questions on these yarns.
Laura
November 5, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi there,

I am also in agreement that the stitch count for the "V" shaping is off. Your pattern only accounts for 90 stitches, not the 92 that you should be left with. Either the knitter should knit an extra decrease tow to end up with the 90 stitches or perhaps the instructions for the "V" could be corrected.
Meanwhile, I shall knit on....
December 27, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterPatricia
Patricia,
THANK YOU! Yes the number of Front stitches knit on either side of the "V" was off by one stitch (for the Medium/Large) size. The pattern has been corrected!
Thank you again for writing in.
Laura
December 29, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Could you do this same pattern in sport wieght cotton?
February 9, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterKaren
Hi Karen,
Great question! And the answer is YES! The fabric will have a different feel and weight of course, but it sounds lovely. Just be sure to find the appropriate needles for your yarn to get the gauge given above. AND also let us know how it goes!
Laura
February 10, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I skipped the short rows for the tail and went ahead to the steps for the body. After knitting the first 10(11) rows, the directions are to start an increase row. Where it states knit to marler, should this be at stich 94 as mentioned in the first step as if knitting the tail?
March 16, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterTiffany
Hi Tiffany.
Yes. The stitch marker should be after the 94th stitch if you are making the smaller size. Be sure to place the marker before doing the increase round, otherwise the stitch marker will be in the wrong place.
Thanks for asking Tiffany. I will try to clarify this in the pattern.
Laura
March 19, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Absolutely gorgeous - the color, the style, the choice of fiber, everything!!
Would love to try this on a knitting machine - do you have any schematics to help me please?? Many thanks IA!
April 9, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterAlison
Hi Alison-

None of us have experience with knitting machines so I'm not sure how much help we can be! But the finished dimensions are listed at the top of the pattern if that helps at all.

Thanks for writing in!

Molly
April 9, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi,

Please clarify, sl 1 purlwise in the v- shaping. Is this wyif or wyib?
Thanks.
May 7, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterSuzi
Hi Suzi,
The slip 1 purlwise in the V-shaping is with the yarn in back, wyib.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
May 8, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee

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