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Sunday
Mar172013

Laura's Loop: The Sweatshirt Sweater

I grew up wearing a school uniform, which, for me, turns out to be a hard habit to kick. Some people seem to totally reject their childhoods of forced attire, opting for recklessly eclectic wardrobes. But I can't fight it; I'm a uniform kid, through and through.

I am sure you'll be relieved to read I am no longer sporting ill-fitting plaid jumpers, but there is rarely a day that goes by that I'm not in my own personal uniform. Lately, it's been dark-wash Levi's paired with some form of a baseball T or an athletic-gray sweatshirt. Naturally, I need handknit interpretations of these basics! I accomplished the first this past autumn when I stitched up the Everyday Linen Raglan. And now, I'm happy to add a thicker, cozier, woolier version to my collection... the Sweatshirt Sweater!
The Sweatshirt Sweater is my new go-to garb, spacious enough for underlayers and soft enough to go without. It's knit in Swans Island 100% organic merino, a beautiful light worsted yarn that evokes a natural refinement. I'll be in this uniform for these last snowy days of March, all the way through the crisp nights of spring!
Spoiler alert: as the seasons change, so does my uniform, so keep your eye out for some more knit basics in the months to come!

The Materials

 

The Pattern

Gauge

5 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on larger needles 

Sizes + Dimensions

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)

Finished Chest Circumference: 33 3/4 (37 1/2, 41, 44 3/4, 48 1/4) inches

Finished Hip Circumference: 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) inches

Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 inches, with directions to adjust 

Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 7 1/2 (8 1/4, 9 1/4, 9 3/4, 10) inches 

Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm: 16 (17, 19, 19 1/2, 20 1/2) inches, with direction to adjust

NOTE: Size Small sweater shown here on 34-inch bust dressform with 3 1/2 inches of ease. Please pay close attention to finished dimensions above when selecting which size to make!

Pattern Notes

Slip 1, k2tog, psso (or sk2p): This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle. 

Knit 3 together (or k3tog): This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit. Knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch.

Begin Sleeves

With the smaller sized double pointed needles, cast on 42 (45, 51, 54, 60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1:  *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. 

Change to larger double pointed needles.

Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.

** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.

Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches

Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches

Note: If you are particularly short (or long) limbed and would like to adjust the length of the sleeve, 

repeat Round 4 fewer (or more) times between increase rounds.

Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.

Place remaining 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches on scrap yarn or a spare circular needle. 

Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Begin Body  

With the smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) stitches.

Place marker and connect for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. 

Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2 1/4 (2 1/4, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 3) inches. 

Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)

Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat last round until piece measures 3 1/4 (3 1/4, 3 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/2, 4) inches from cast on edge. 

Mark for Pouch (Optional)

Note: If you are not making the pouch, skip to the "Continue" section.

Round 1: K7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Continue working in established pattern until piece measures 10 (10 1/4, 10 1/2, 11, 12) inches from cast on edge.

Make the Pouch (Optional)

With the extra larger circular needle, starting with (and including) the marked stitch, slip the point of the needle under the right leg of the following 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) stitches

Remove the removable marker. 

For this section, you will be working just the 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) pouch stitches. You'll work back and forth in rows, turning the piece at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. 

Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] two times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] two times, k1, p1.

Row 3 (decrease row): K1, p1, [k2, p1]  two times, ssk, knit to last 10 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. (2 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eighteen (19, 20, 21, 22) more times. 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) stitches

Repeat Row 2.

Cut yarn, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Graft the Pouch (Optional)

To graft the pouch stitches to the body of the sweater...

Returning to the body of the sweater and continuing from where you left off, k25 (26, 27, 28, 29). Now holding the pouch needle and sweater needle parallel to each other, *knit one stitch from the front pouch needle together with one stitch from the back sweater needle, repeat from *until all the pouch stitches have been knit. Now continuing with just the body stitches and working again in the round, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2], two times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round. 

Continue

Continue working in established pattern until body of sweater measures 14 inches from cast on edge or desired length to underarm.

Attach the Sleeves

Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1. 179 (199, 217, 235, 253) stitches

Round 2: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to first stitch holder, pm, orient the sleeve's on-hold underarm stitches so they are parallel and next to the body's on-hold underarm stitches and knit the sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch to the right of the stitches on hold), pm, knit to next stitch holder, pm, knit the second sleeve stitches, place a different color marker (this is the new end of the round). 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve  

Begin Raglan

Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end.

Repeat Round 1 two more times.

Next Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased) 

Repeat Round 1. 

Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more times. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total stitches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) stitches for each sleeve 

Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck

You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches

Row 3 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 138 (152, 160, 170, 182) stitches

Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row.  135 (149, 157, 166, 178) stitches

Row 5 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 3, (3, 3, 4, 4) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 124 (138, 146, 154, 166) stitches

Row 6 : Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 122 (136, 144, 151, 163) stitches

Row 7 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end  of row.  112 (126, 134, 140, 152) stitches 

Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end. 

Row 9 (raglan shaping row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. (10 stitches decreased) 

Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve

For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve 

For XS Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 66 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve

For Medium Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve

For Large Size Only 

Repeat Row 8. 

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

For XLarge Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

Make Neckband

For this section, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in rows. 

Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches

Next Round: *K1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round until ribbing measures 1 1/4 (1 1/4, 1 1/2 ,1 3/4 , 2) inches.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finish Underarms

Slip one pair of underarm stitches from the stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding the needles parallel to one another, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft closed the underarm.

Repeat for second underarm. 

Weave in your ends and you are finished!

 

Reader Comments (100)

Hi Elizabeth,
Yes, you sure do.
Laura
May 30, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
First of all thank you for this great pattern! It will be my first adult sized sweater and I have decided to knit it with Malabrigo Rios in the "Marte" colourway.

I do have a question about the sizing. In one of the post replies you said, you recommend to knit this with 2+ inches of ease. Is ease calculated into the sizes? I.e. will the Medium size fit a 41" bust including ease, making it approx 43" wide? Or should I go up a size, if my bust is right on the spot of the measument given for the size?

And, also for the difficult hip measurement: My hip circumfence (measured where I would like the sweater to end, about 2" below my trouser band) is roughly the same as my bust circumfence, or rather a touch larger. The measurements given here assume a smaller circumfence. Will this work for me anyway? Or will the body band be awfully tight in comparison? If so, can you suggest a way to avoid that?

Thank you in advance for your replies!
June 19, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterLaura
Hi Laura,
The dimensions listed above are the finished measurements of the sweater. You will have to take your bust size and add ease to see what size sweater you'd like to make.

As for the hips... The rib has quite a bit of give. I think you will be fine. You can knit the ribbed portion on a larger size needle than recommended, that will help!

Thanks for writing in.
Laura
June 20, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hello! I was wondering, how high does the pouch go on the small size? If I wanted to shorten it, how would I do that? Thank you for all your help!
July 3, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterElizabeth
Hi Elizabeth,
The pocket on the small size (if you are getting 7 rows to the inch) is approximately 5 3/4 inches tall.

Shortening it is a little more involved than I can explain in this comment box. If you shorten it, it means you are eliminating some decrease rows, which just means you will have to figure out where to center the pocket when you get to the next portion of the pattern where you graft it to the sweater.

Does that help at all?
Please let me know if you have any other questions regarding this or other portions of the pattern.
Thanks,
Laura
July 8, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,

Love love love your designs and have decided to make this sweater as my very first sweater project. I was just wondering if you would consider this a good first sweater to knit and also, I live in New Zealand so don't get the wonderful yarn that you have in the States. What types of yarn would you recommend as a good substitute i.e. DK super merino etc.

Can't wait to get started on this!

Many thanks
Elaine
July 9, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterElaine
Hi Elaine,
Thank you for the compliments. Glad you like the sweater. This is not a difficult pattern, but it isn't the most beginner project either. I say go for it, but read ahead and carefully and of course we are always here to answer any questions you have..

As for the yarn. I used a worsted merino that is on the thinner side of worsted. A heavy DK would work, but I think a worsted (or 10 ply) would be best.
Laura
July 12, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
HI

Love this sweater and currently knitting one for myself! I was just wondering.. what row gauge should I be getting? I am getting 7 rows to the inch. Just worried because when i did the pouch.. i was only at 10 inches when the 46 rows were complete for the pouch. I am concerned that if my row gauge is off, then my armhole depth with be too short! Please advise.. Thank you in advance!


Rick
July 19, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRick
Hello Rick.
Thanks for writing in. I was getting 7 rows to the inch as well.
Laura
July 29, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
My question is about sizing - my bust measures 34", which would indicate the M size if I wanted a few inches of ease (which I do), but my hip where I want the sweater to end is 37", not the 34" as stated by the pattern. I'm afraid of it getting horrendously baggy if I go up to the L size, but I also don't want it to be too tight across my stomach. Which would you recommend?

Shell Feda

----

Hello Shell,
I did not see your comment, but wanted to address it so I have cut and pasted it above. The bottom edge is ribbed and will have quite a bit of give to it. At its most contracted it will measure much smaller than once it is on and worn, shaping more to your body. I would not go up in size.
Laura
July 29, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,

I'm having a lot of trouble obtaining the correct gauge of 5.5 stitches per inch. I'm using Lion Brand Wool Ease Worsted and no matter how many sizes down I go wit my needles, the gauge is still much too big, at 4.5 or barely 5 stitches per inch. Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you!
elizabeth
August 4, 2013 | Unregistered Commenterelizabeth
Hello Elizabeth.
Sorry to hear you are struggling with the gauge. You want to be able to knit at 5 1/2 stitches to the inch comfortably and have it create a nice (not too dense or too stiff) fabric. I am worried if you keep going down in needle size, you might not enjoy knitting this project or like the finished product. I think what you might need is to switch yarns. I imagine this isn't what you want to hear. Swan's Island's Worsted is on the thin side of a worsted. It is nearly a DK even.
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Laura
August 6, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I've reached the section of the sweater where I'm picking up the stitches for the pouch. The directions said to mark the 7th stitch when knitting, and then pick up that one plus the next 93 (I'm knitting the M size).
When I picked up the 94 sts, I found that there are 9 stitches not picked up before the side "seams" on the far side, and six on the near (because the 7th one I marked was the one I started picking up.)
I may have added a stitch or two by accident. Should I shift the pouch a stitch or two to the left in order to compensate?
August 18, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMartha
Hi Martha.
I would pick up as many stitches as you need to in order to center it. In other words, pick up until there are six stitches before the side 'seam' (ribbing).

It will just be a hair wider. All the better for keeping cold hands warm!
Laura
August 19, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi! I absolutely adore this pattern for such a classic staple! I was wondering would your new "worsted twist" yarn be compatible with this pattern? If so how many skeins would be needed? Thanks!
September 2, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterAlicia
hi laura!
i'm hoping to make the body of the sweater a little bit longer...maybe sit a couple inches lower than it would with the pattern. where would you suggest adding these extra rows? before i would mark the pouch?

thank you!
cara
September 3, 2013 | Unregistered Commentercara
Hi Alicia,
Wonderful question.... The Worsted Twist is a little heavy for this pattern. Swan's Island Worsted is almost a DK or light Worsted. Where as the Worsted Twist is a more classic Worsted/Aran weight. (((But... top secret news: we might just be working on a pattern like this in Worsted Twist. I am not sure when it will launch however. But, sshhhhhh, that's all still in development.)))
Laura
September 4, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Cara.
Great question.
I would add the extra length between the bottom ribbing and the pouch. So yes, before you mark the pouch. You want the pouch to be at a comfortable height for your arms and hands. I worry about adding length above the pocket which might lower it down too far to use.
Hope this helps.
Laura
September 4, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Being a little bottom heavy I am seriously considering knitting the large hips then adding some decrease rows after the pocket to end up with a medium bust. Does this just sound ridiculous? I most knit socks, but I am used to need to adapt a pattern to fit my feet.... waist shaping should be the same... maybe?
September 10, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterErin B
Hi Erin B.
That doesn't sound ridiculous at all! If you can navigate altering the geometry of a sock, you will can definitely handle narrowing what is essentially a tube or cylinder of primarily stockinette stitch.

Let me know if you get stuck and how it goes!
Laura
September 12, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi there - I am knitting a size S and having trouble with the neck shaping. There are 56sts in the front section when the neck shaping begins, but the neck shaping and raglans eat up many more stitches than this.

The back section (56 sts) is reduced down to 40 sts before working the neckband - 16 rows total raglan shaping.

If the neck is divided in two (28 sts on each half of the centre front neck)
Row 2-3: Bind off 6 + 1st raglan decrease = 21sts remain
Row 4-5: Bind off 3 + 1st raglan decrease = 17sts remain
Row 6-7: Bind off 2 + 1st raglan decrease = 14sts remain
Row 8-9: Dec 1 - 1st raglan decrease = 12 sts remain

Then the instructions say to repeat rows 8-9 3 more times, which would mean 6 more stitches decreased on the front sections (so 6 sts remaining, BUT the instructions also say the front sections should have 10 sts remaining.

I am so confused!
September 18, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterAnna
Hi Anna.
I am so sorry for any frustration / confusion.

For the Small, after repeating Rows 8 and 9 three more times, you would have 12 stitches remaining for the front (6 stitches at each side of the crew neck shaping).

I will tidy up the wording on this. Again, I am sorry for any confusion and thank you for writing in.
Laura

Row 2-3: Bind off 6 + 1st raglan decrease = 42 sts remain
Row 4-5: Bind off 3 + 1st raglan decrease = 34 sts remain
Row 6-7: Bind off 2 + 1st raglan decrease = 28 sts remain
Row 8-9: Dec 1 - 1st raglan decrease = 24 sts remain
Row 8-9: again = 20 sts remain
Row 8-9: again = 16 sts remain
Row 8-9: again= 12 sts remain (6 for Front Right, 6 for Front Left)
September 19, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Thanks so much for this pattern! It's my first sweater :) I'm having trouble w/pocket.Row 3 says knit until the last 10 stitches then k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. But 10 stitches is not enough. I think you need 12 stitches. Am I doing something wrong?
September 24, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMonica
Hello Monica,
Let me try and clear this up.
K2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1 = 10 stitches

You are only repeating what is within the brackets two times, I think you might be repeating the more than what's in the brackets to get to 12 stitches.
So written out, it's... K2tog, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1

Let me know if you have any other questions. I am so glad you like pattern. Keep us posted!
Laura
September 25, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I really like this sweater, but I've been looking for a pattern for a seed stitch sweater and I can't find anything worth making. Would knitting this pattern in a seed stitch instead of a stockinet affect the sizing too much?
October 4, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterSally
Hello Sally,
Theoretically this sweater would work in Seed Stitch. I definitely recommend knitting up a swatch to make sure your gauge is ok. Also, I cannot account for how the ribbing details and Seed Stitch will interact. Seed Stitch is worked over a multiple of 2 stitches, so decreasing in Seed without interrupting the pattern requires a 2-stitch decrease, which is not accounted for here. What I am getting at is, yes, you can knit this in Seed Stitch, but keep in mind, the pattern was not written for a stitch pattern, so you might come accross unresolved moments.
Laura
October 5, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi,
Question about the body of this pattern, I'm having trouble with the increase for the XS size. I currently have 168 stitches, but each time I finish the increase row, I have 6 stitches left at the end. Let me know if I'm reading this wrong.

For XS I am doing k5, k1fb x 8 times, then k2 p1 x 2 and repeating the whole sequence 3 times. I did the math and this equals 186, but I reach the end of the * and have 6 stitches, which then leaves me with 196+ stitches.. Too many

Then if I complete it k5, k1fb then k8, k1fb this all x 8 times, then k2, p1 x 2 it doesn't work either.

I have a hard time reading patterns, so for XS can you please clarify how to complete this specific row to achieve 186 at the end, I've ripped this row out several times!

Thanks so much!
October 13, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterLindsay
Hi Lindsay.
Ok I think I know where the problem is.
First you... *K5, k1fb
Then... [k8, k1fb] 8 times for the XS
Then... [k2, p1] 2 times
You are now at the half way point.
And you start back at the asterisk, where it says "*K5..."

Does that help?

I believe you were repeating the "K5" over and over again, but it is only done twice, once at the beginning of the round and once right after the half way mark. It is the instructions starting with "k8" that is repeated over and over.

Please don't hesitate to contact us if this isn't clear or if you have any other questions along the way.
Laura
October 15, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I am working on two sweatshirt sweaters and need help in finishing the necklines.
I want to raise the front neckline and either knit a roll or turtleneck, depending on the amount of yarn left. Will I be knitting in the round and ignoring the bind off stitches in
front but continuing the raglan decreases? Any help you can give me if so appreciated.
Love this and other sweater patterns.
Sincerely,
Kathie
November 15, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterKathryn Wendorff
Hi Kathie,

Fun idea.

Once you reach the section titled Make Neckband, you no longer need to do any decreasing. If you'd like to do a round or two more of it, you would end up with a more fitted turtleneck. Maybe you could continue the ribbing along that is along the raglan decreases into your turtleneck. That would feel cohesive.

If you have any questions once you've started, just let me know. I'll try to trouble shoot with you as best I can.
Laura
November 18, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Did anyone else have trouble getting gauge on this?

I swatched super carefully on sz 4/5/6/7, but even on Sz 4 I'm getting 4.5st = 1'... Can't really see going any smaller than sz 4 so i guess I should CO a smaller pattern size?

I'm a slow knitter, this is my first sweater project, and I'm kinda terrified of potentially wasting dozens of hours! Any advice/anecdotes are appreciated.
November 22, 2013 | Unregistered Commenterjackie
I'm a bit confused about shaping the crew neck.. First it said for XS(S,L,XL) [no M], then there's a part about for XS only, M only, L only, and XL only [no 'S only']. So if I'm making a S sweater, do I only do the XS(S,L,XL) part and ignore the fact that there's no 'S only' part following it?
November 23, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterLily
Hi Lily,
That is exactly right.
What is happening here is that different shaping has to happen for the different sizes in order to make sure the ribs at the raglan decreases align with the ribs at the neck band.
Laura
November 25, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Jackie.
I am sorry to hear you're struggling to hit gauge. It sounds like you are a much looser knitter than I am.

I understand your timidness about modifying, especially if this is your first sweater. Would you ever think of changing yarns? Swan's Island's Worsted is a very light weight worsted yarn. Perhaps you could look at Purl Soho's Worsted Twist or Madeline Tosh's Tosh Merino.

Please let us know what you decided to do with this project in case we can help in any way.
Thanks.
Laura
November 25, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura,

I have a quick question on the sleeve.

Does this repeat, "Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches" include Round 4 AND the repeat of Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times?

--------------
**Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
--------------

Thanks!
Jill
November 27, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterJill
Hi Jill,
Great question... YES. Round 3, Round 4, Repeat Round 4 x number of times and then start all over again!
Hope you're enjoying the project.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
November 27, 2013 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi - love the pattern and really looking for ward to wearing my sweater! I'm having a little trouble on the raglan part. When I am decreasing, it seems as if the decreases are facing away from the knit/purl section. There are left facing decreases when I would have expected to see right facing decreases, for example. Is this what you intended or am I (more likely) reading the pattern wrong?
Thanks Susan
January 4, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterSusan Adolf
Hi Susan,
You have a good eye for detail! The decreases are done this way intentionally, but you are correct in that they are opposite of what is typical. Having the decreases 'facing away' causes the raglan ribbing to appear raised or popped-up a bit. It's a technique I thought would be nice to highlight the decreasing detail. You can of course do the decrease of your choice and make the pattern your own!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
January 6, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I'm using a yarn that requires more rows to get to the proper lengths, how can I make the sleeves taller? (Adding rows throughout the raglan)
January 20, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterSusan
Hi Susan.
Great question. To lengthen the sleeves, I would add an extra round or two between the Increase Rounds. Similarly, you can add a round while shaping the raglan as well!
Please let me know if you have more questions!
Laura
January 22, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Laura:

Thank you for sharing your pattern. I have swatched with some stash yarn to start this sweater, but am having difficulty getting gauge. I was planning on making it in the size medium, but after going down to size U.S. 4 ndls for the ribbing, the 206 stitches for the waist/hip band seems like it will swim on me. Can you give me an idea of how much ease this sweater has? Normally, I am a size medium, but am wondering if I'll get a good fit if I just go ahead and knit a size small instead. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for sharing the one-pice sweater -- I hate seaming!

Eileen
February 1, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterEileen
Hi Eileen.
The dressform here has a 34 inch bust and is modeling the Small, with 3 1/2 inches of ease. I have a 36 inch bust and I would probably make myself the Small (with only 1 1/2 inches of ease). Since Swan's Island's Worsted is not a thick bulky yarn, the sweater can definitely be comfortably warn with fewer inches of ease than the industry standard of 4 inches.

I do hope this helps.
Please let me know if you have any other questions, on this or other things!
Laura
February 4, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
I am currently working on this sweater and I've run into an issue on the sleeve. Maybe I'm missing an increase? If I'm knitting a medium (44 stitches+ 2 increases in Rnd3) How am I suppose to end up with 81 stitches after completing Repeat **? According to the pattern that would be 28 increased stitches 46+ 28=74 not 81. Somehow I am missing 7 additional stitches. Could someone help me out here please?
Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.

** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.

Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches

Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches
March 23, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterChrissy
Hi Chrissy.
I'm here to help! If you are making the Medium...

Before you begin increasing, you have 51 stitches.
After Round 3 you have 53 stitches. (2 stitches increased)
After Round 4 you still have 53 stitches.
You repeat Round 4 five times, still have 53 stitches.
Then you repeat from the ** 14 more times.

14 repeats x the 2-stitch increase = 28 increase stitches
28 increase stitches + the existing 53 stitches = 81 stitches

Then, you repeat Round 3 once more giving you 83 stitches.

Does this help at all? I think you were looking at the set-up row which mentions working 44 stitches before placing a marker, but your total stitch count at that point is already 51.

Please write back if you have any questions!
Laura
March 24, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Thank you for the excellent pattern! I just finished this (my very first sweater), and I'm fairly pleased with my work. I think a slightly finer yarn than I used (worsted but on the thicker side) would have given me a better drape, but overall, it looks pretty good. Purlbee has spoiled us all with such excellent, well-written patterns. I've learned all sorts of things I never thought I could have on my own!
March 26, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterKelly
Hello!

I am currently making this sweater in a size small and can't wait until it's done so I can wear it!!!! I have one question- when it says "for XS size only" "for Medium size only" "for large size only" and "for XLarge size only," does the size small just not do anything, or is there supposed to be something for the small to do, too? I'm guessing it's like in the step before where it says "For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only," but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right!!

Thanks in advance for any help!
-Alexandra
April 17, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterAlexandra
Hi Alexandra.
Follow the pattern for the size you are making. If a section has omitted your size, simply move on to the next section where your size is listed or it reads "For All Sizes"! You are absolutely doing it right and I am so thrilled to hear you are excited to wear your new sweater! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
April 18, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Love this sweater. I am a little confused by the sizing and not sure what size to make. my Chest measures 36 inches and my hips are 38 inches. The hip measurements seem so small compared to the chest. I was thinking a medium would work in the chest. Is the bottom of that sweater just very stretchy?
April 18, 2014 | Unregistered Commenterstacy
this is my first sweater, and i am loving the pattern - i got so excited about it that i have nearly knit the whole thing in 3 weeks time. sadly i made a huge mistake that i am wondering if you have any advice for!
i was initially having some trouble knitting to gauge with my choice of yarn, and i waffled back and forth for a while, but i accidentally made the sleeves size S and body size XS. which, i am realizing now that i am shaping the neck, matters a lot. i had just done more decreases when i attached the sleeves but of course the # of sts between front/back & sleeves is off.
the trouble is, i also reaaaally like the way it's fitting right now, and wouldn't even want it done any differently. is there a way to do the neck without undoing everything? i am using a very dark yarn and can live with the raglan & neckband not lining up exactly as you have it, but as a total newbie to sweaters, i am not sure what the effect of less room to do the shaping in the front will be. can i just bind off/pick up fewer stitches without it looking awful? i believe i had 42 stitches in front/back at the beginning of the shaping section.. oh what a mess!
April 20, 2014 | Unregistered Commenterrowan
Hi Stacy,
The ribbing at the bottom of the sweater does have a lot of stretch or give, also, over time, this fabric, like all hand knits will morph to the wear-ers body a bit. There is no shaping in the body of the sweater. You'll have the same number of stitches from just above the rib to the underarms. The ribbing at the base just pulls in some, like a sweatshirt. I think the Medium would work for you!
Laura
April 21, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee

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