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Thursday
Feb202014

Corinne's Thread: Quilted Vest

There's a cartoon sketch I remember watching when I was a kid. A little boy looks out the window to see that it's raining, bundles up in all his rain gear and runs outside, only to find the sun shining bright. This scene repeats a few more times until it is finally revealed that the "rain" is actually the sprinkler going back and forth across the lawn.

In the upcoming early days of spring, this meteorological back and forth will be all too real: freezing in the morning, sunny and warm in the afternoon and cloudy by dinner time. I anticipate feeling like that confused little boy chasing the whims of a sprinkler.

And so, this Quilted Vest will be my go-to for spring's unpredictable days. A layer of Dream Wool batting will keep me cozy, but its light weight will never feel too warm. It’s like a comfy blanket that you get to wear all day long but with its clean lines and delicate collar shaping, much more fashionable!

Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union Dot makes the outside of this vest as cool and versatile as a favorite pair of jeans, while Moda 200-count Muslin makes the inside as crisp as a spring pea! Get all of the materials you need to make your own with our Materials for Quilted Vest kit right here, and no matter how the temperatures dip, curve, climb, or tease, you’ll be prepared too! - Corinne

Materials

One Materials for Quilted Vest kit. Each kit includes...

Additional materials needed...
These are enough materials to make one vest in any size. 

Pattern

Sizes

Women’s  XS (S, M, L, XL)
These are the finished measurements:


Pattern Notes

Prewash the Outer Fabric and Lining before starting.  

Cut the Fabric

From both the Lining and the Outer Fabric, you will use the template to pin and cut…

  • One Vest Back, on the fold
  • Two Vest Fronts

The two Vest Fronts should be mirror images of each other. To be sure to cut them with the proper orientation, cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, or you can fold the fabric with right or wrong sides facing each other and cut through both layers at once.  

From the Outer Fabric you will also cut the Binding on the bias (at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the fabric) in 1 5/8-inch strips. Cut enough strips so that when pieced you have a total of 4 (4 1/2, 5. 5 1/2, 6) yards.  

Using a Hera marker or fabric pen, transfer the markings from the template to all pieces of the Lining Fabric.

Make the Bias Tape

Make sure that all of the ends of the bias strips are cut at 45-degree angle (this cut will run straight with the grain line of the fabric), then piece the bias strips together to create one long piece. For in-depth instructions on how this is done, with lots of photos, please check out my Denim Pinwheel Quilt project here and scroll down to the “Binding” section. 

Once you have one long strip of bias tape, use the 18mm bias tape maker (following the manufacturer’s instructions) to press the bias strip into single fold bias tape. 

Set the bias tape aside. 

Sew the Side Seams

Starting with the Outer Fabric and with right sides facing, pin one Vest Front to the Vest Back along the straight outer edge. Sew the pieces together along this edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. 

Repeat with the second Vest Front along the other outer edge of the Vest Back. 

Press the seams open. 

This is now the Outer Vest. 

Repeat with the Lining. 

Cut the Batting

Trim the Wool Batting down to a smaller, more manageable piece that is still larger than the Vest, approximately 44 by 29 (48 by 30, 51 by 31, 54 by 32, 58 by 33) inches. 

Lay the Batting out flat on a clean, open space. With the Outer Vest pressed open and flat, center it on top of the batting. Smooth out any wrinkles. There should be about 2 inches of the Batting coming out from under the Outer Vest on all four sides. 

Starting from the center and working out, use the curved arm safety pins to secure the Outer Vest to the batting. Trim the Batting so that it is the same shape and size as the Vest.  

Remove pins and set aside.

Mark the Lining

With the Lining pressed flat, lay it out on a flat, clean surface.

Using a straight edge and a Hera maker or fabric pen, draw straight lines to connect the marks you made on the Vest Back and Vest Front pieces.

Using these lines as a guide, draw parallel lines every 2 ½ inches until you reach the bottom edge of the Vest.

Quilt

Lay the Outer Vest smooth and flat, right side down, on a clean surface.

Lay the cut piece of Batting on top, lining up all edges.

Finally, place the Lining on top, with the marked lines facing up. Again, line up all edges.

This is your quilt sandwich.

Pin-baste the quilt sandwich with curved arm safety pins. Place the first pin at the center of the back of the Vest, making sure to pick up all three layers: Outer Vest, Batting and Lining. Then, moving outward, place pins about 3-5 inches apart, avoiding the marked lines. Pin all the way to the edges of the Vest. 

Using your machine’s walking foot, quilt along the horizontally marked lines. 

Sew the Shoulders

Fold the Vest along its two side seams so that the Vest Fronts fold over the Vest back with the Outer Fabrics facing each other. Line up the shoulder edges and pin in place. Sew along these pinned edges with a 1/2–inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance of the shoulder down to ¼ inch. 

Cut one end of the bias strip at a 90-degree angle. 

Open up one side of the bias tape. Starting at one end of the shoulder seam, and with the bias tape wrong side up, align and pin the open edge of the tape to the raw edge of the shoulder seam. 

Cut the end of the bias tape at a 90-degree angle so that the tape is just the length of the seam. 

Sew the bias tape to the shoulder seam with a ¼-inch seam allowance. 

 Fold the bias tape around the raw edge of the seam and attach it to the other side using a slip stitch. For in-depth instructions on how to sew a slip stitch with bias tape, check out the Denim Pinwheel Quilt project here and scroll down to the “Binding” section. 

Repeat for the other shoulder seam. 

Finish 

If it’s not already, cut one end of the bias strip at a 90-degree angle. 

Open up one side of the bias tape. Lay the Vest open with the Lining side facing up. Starting at the center of the bottom back edge and with the bias tape wrong side up, align and pin the open edge of the tape to the raw edge of the Vest.

When you get to the shoulder seams, make sure that they are folded towards the back of the Vest.

Pin the bias all the way around the outer edge of the Vest until you meet the starting point. Trim the bias tape so that it overlaps the beginning edge 2 to 4 inches. 

Starting two inches from the end of the bias tape, attach it with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Continue sewing until you reach the point where the beginning of the bias tape overlaps the end of the bias tape. 

To sew the ends down, fold the extra length of both ends over towards the wrong side so that the creases of each end meet in the middle of the gap.  

Press the folds and sew the two ends of the binding together at the crease. Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch and press to one side. Sew across the gap with a ¼-inch seam allowance. 

For detailed photographs of this process, check out the Denim Pinwheel Quilt project here and scroll down to the “Binding” section. 

Now, flip the Vest so that the Outer Fabric is facing up. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge. Sew the bias tape to the Vest using a slip stitch, as you did with the shoulders. 

Sew the bias tape to the armholes of the Vest in the same way.  

You're all done!

 

Reader Comments (18)

This is amazing! I've been wanting to make a quilted vest for some time. I thought I might just wing it. Ha. I quilt, but haven't dipped into sewing apparel. This would be a great transition! Thanks so much for the tutorial!
February 21, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterAshton Bynum
Love the look of this vest!
I am wondering why the bias tape is sewn down to the inside and then slipped stitched to the outside. In my mind it would be neater the other way around. is there any reason I shouldn't? Thanks for the fun and creative projects you all share!
February 21, 2014 | Unregistered Commenterstephanie b
now that I have seen this tutorial, I have the perfect project for all those old jeans I have been collecting! Thank you for your time and patience putting this up on the web.
February 22, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterRichard Herndon
A big thank you, This is the next project I'm doing. So easy to follow. Cheers!!
February 22, 2014 | Unregistered Commenternikki b
Why does kit contain 1 1/2 yds. when materials list calls for 1 yd.? I love this vest.
February 23, 2014 | Unregistered Commentersara upchurch
Do you have a sizing chart with measurements which equate to the XS, S, M, L, XL sizing on the pattern? I want to make this charming vest, but in the correct size.
February 24, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterJulie
Hi Sara -

Thank you for pointing out the discrepancy. Good spotting!
The yardage in the kit is correct and I have updated the materials list accordingly. It takes 1 1/2 yards of the Chambray Union Dot to make the vest.

Thanks again!
-Corinne
February 24, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Stephanie -

This is a great question. You are right, the bias tape can be sewn to the front and stitched down to the back as well. Either works great.

Thanks for writing in!
-Corinne
February 24, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Julie -

This is a great question! Sorry this information wasn't included with the pattern. The corresponding bust measurements for the sizes are, XS - 28-32 inches, S - 33-35 inches, M - 36-38 inches, L - 39-42 inches, XL - 43-46 inches.

I hope this helps!
-Corinne
February 24, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi! Just wanted to say how absolutely gorgeous this vest is. As soon as I saw the post, I ran out and bought fabric. It's almost done...I just have to finish hand stitching the binding. Your projects and tutorials are beautiful and so incredibly well thought-out and presented. Thank you for all of the inspiration!
February 24, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterKristin
Love this vest…
Few questions, do I need to use the wool batting vs a different lighter weight batting
live in southern part of VA.?
Also when I go online to purchase the Union Dot Indigo material vs the kit material shows slightly different without the small white embellishments.
Thanks
Ellen
February 25, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterEllen T
Hi Ellen -
Thank you for writing in. I'm so glad you like the project!

You can definitely substitute the batting for something lighter, it just won't be as puffy. The wool batting has a loftiness that lighter weight cotton battings do not. It would still be beautiful though!

The solid chambrays that you're seeing on the site are other fabrics in the same Chambray Union line. It looks like the Union Dot is currently sold out. If you'd like to be notified when it comes back in stock, please drop us a line at customerservice@purlsoho.com.

Thanks!
-Corinne
February 25, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Me encanta.Gracias por el tutorial.Espero hacerme uno!!
February 26, 2014 | Unregistered Commenterrosa
I love vests, and this is beautiful! How do you determine how much to enlarge the pattern?
February 27, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterTanya
Hi Tanya -

Thanks for writing in!

You can print out all pieces of the pattern at 100%. All 5 sizes are included on the template.

I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions while you work on the project!

-Corinne
February 27, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee
Hi Corinne,
Thank you! I noticed the PDF page size was 8.5 x 11 so I wasn't sure, but that makes it so easy!
February 27, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterTanya
Hi Corinne,

Wondering- do you have any photos to share of this vest on?! Would love to get a better sense of the fit and neckline... I checked the flickr pool, but no uploads yet. Please share some!
Anyone else sewn and blogged/photographed yet?!
Thanks!
Sarah
March 22, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterSarah
Hi Sarah-

We don't have any photos on people but we feel that the shots on the dress form accurately depict the fit and neckline etc.

Thanks for writing in!

Molly
March 24, 2014 | Registered Commenterpurl bee

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