Weaving in Your Ends

I have some good news. And, I have some bad news. Good news first: there is no one right way to weave in your ends. So, chances are, you haven't been doing it wrong! Now, the bad news: there are so many different ways to weave in your ends, you might not be doing it the best way either.
Having options, it's a blessing and a curse. While options allow us a certain freedom, they also give us cause for doubt and uncertainty! Sure, as knitters we do live by a few hard and fast rules (such as: no knots!), but for the most part, there is always another way to do it, no matter what it happens to be. This truth became abundantly clear during my days working at the Purl Soho shop.
Some of our most seasoned customers would come in to find a knitting newbie at the communal table, finishing up a project in some newfangled kind of way. The old pro would sheepishly ask about it in an apologetic tone, pre-emptively saying "I know, I know I should know this." It turns out the most basic questions are the most common. And, so as simple as this tutorial may sound, it's not just for beginners! It's for everyone who has a creeping feeling of doubt whenever she or he tucks away those last stray tails, "Is this really how you do it?".
The perhaps unsettling truth is that there is probably another way to do whatever it is you are doing. It might not be a better way, just different. We all have our favorites. To help you pick yours, I've gathered together some of my favorite techniques for hiding ends. Some I picked up from the humbling-ly talented Joelle Hoverson, some from the witty Whitney of Whit's Knits, a lot from customers and of course a few from dear Mom. The techniques below are by no means a conclusive list. We'd all love to hear if you have another favorite method!
Stockinette
Weaving in Ends with Duplicate Stitch (on the 'Right Side')
Weaving your ends using the duplicate stitch method means you will sew along your fabric, following the path of the stitched yarn.

With your tapestry needle threaded, bring your needle from the back or 'wrong side' of the fabric to the front or 'right side' of your fabric at the base of the nearest 'V' created by the knit stitches. Orienting the needle parallel to your rows of knitting, bring your needle behind the 'V' of the row above.

Next, insert the needle back into the bottom of the 'V', the same place where you began. You have now duplicated one stitch.

To make your next stitch, bring your needle to the front again, at the base of the adjacent 'V'. Run your needle behind the 'V' of the row above. Pull your end though. Then bring the needle back through the hole at the base of the 'V' below, where you began your second duplicate stitch.

Continue in this fashion for a few more stitches or until your feel your end is secure.
Weaving in Ends on the Vertical

Hold your fabric with the 'right side' facing you. Bring your threaded needle from the 'wrong side' to the 'right side'. Point the needle vertically away from you. Weave the needle under every other horizontal strand that stretches between the 'V's created by the knit stitches. To see these horizontal strands more clearly, hold your fabric on the right and left sides and gently tug, stretching the fabric slightly.

Hold the needle perpendicular to the stitches you just made. Run your needle under the adjacent 'V'.

Point the needle vertically toward you. Run it under every other horizontal strand found between the 'V's made by the knit stiches.

Weaving your end into the fabric in two directions should secure your tail. If you want to be extra sure your end is tucked, rotate your needle and weave it vertically away from you once more.

Weaving in Ends on with Duplicate Stitch (on the 'Wrong Side')

Orient your fabric with the 'wrong side' facing you. With your needle threaded, bring it from the 'right side' to the 'wrong side' of your work, the side you are looking at. Point the needle away from you. Go up through the nearest purl bump.

Closely following the path of the yarn in the stitched fabric, rotate your needle and bring it towards you. First go under the purl bump adjacent to the original purl you went under. Then take your needle under the purl bump in the row below, slightly to the right.

Once again, rotate your needle. Point it away from you, and slightly to the left. Draw the needle under the purl bump adjacent to the one you recently went under, and then under the purl bump from the row above that you previously came down through.

Continue in this fashion, following the path of the knit yarn, for a few more stitches or until your feel your end is secure.

Weaving in Ends on the Diagonal

Hold your fabric with the 'wrong side' facing you. With your needle threaded, bring it from the 'right side' of the fabric through to the 'wrong side', the side you are looking at. Point your needle at roughly a 45 degree angle. Weave it at a diagonal, under the purl bumps of each of the above rows.

After taking 4 to 6 stitches, rotate your needle 180 degrees. Take another 4 to 6 stitches, parallel to your original stitches. For extra security, you can rotate your needle once again and take a few more stitches.

Garter
Weaving in Ends with Duplicate Stitch
Duplicate stitch for garter is a combination of duplicate stitch for stockinette and reverse stockinette. By that I mean, you will follow the path of the knit yarn, grabbing a purl stitch at the top of the row and then a 'V' of the row below.

With your needle threaded, point the needle away from you. Run the needle under the closest purl bump.

Rotate the needle. Pointing the needle towards you, pull your loose end under the adjacent purl bump. Next, orient your needle parallel to the rows of ridges created by the garter stitch. Slide the needle under the base of the 'V' in the row below.

Following the path of the knit yarn, point the needle away from you. Run the needle under the purl bump you last came through.

Once again, point your needle towards you and bring it under the adjacent purl bump.

Continue in the fashion until you have duplicated 4 to 6 stitches total.

Garter can be tricky for weaving in ends, but I find this method nearly invisible and quite secure.
Weaving in Ends on the Horizontal

With your needle threaded and your loose end brought through the fabric to the side you are looking at. Garter stitch creates ridges of purl bumps. The ridges are created by pairs of slightly staggered purl bumps, one slightly above the other, one making a smiley face, one making a frowney face.
While pointing the needle away from you, run the needle under the nearest higher, frowney face purl bump.

Rotate your needle. Run the needle under the adjacent purl bump, it is slightly lower and making more of a smiley face.

Once again, rotate the needle. Run it under the adjacent purl bump. Continue in this fashion for several more stitches.

With this method, you are only weaving your tail in one general direction. Because of this, I tend to take a few extra stitches to make sure the end is secure.
Weaving in Ends on the Diagonal

This method is very similar to weaving in ends on the diagonal on a stockinette stitch fabric.
With your needle threaded, point your needle at roughly a 45 degree angle. Weave it at a diagonal, under the purl bumps of each of the above rows.

After taking 4 to 6 stitches, rotate your needle 180 degrees. Take another 4 to 6 stitches, parallel to your original stitches. For extra security, you can rotate your needle once again and take a few more stitches.

Rib
Weaving in Your Ends on the Vertical
Whitney tipped me off to this method and its usefulness especially with ribbed knits.

This method is similar to that of weaving in ends vertically on a stockinette stitch fabric.
Point the needle vertically away from you. Weave the needle under every other horizontal strand that stretches between the 'V's created by the knit stiches. To see these horizontal strands more clearly, hold your fabric on the right and left sides and gently tug, stretching the fabric slightly.

After taking 4 to 6 stitches, run the needle horizontally on the 'wrong side' of the fabric over to the adjacent rib column. Next, point the needle towards you. Take another 4 to 6 stitches, parallel to your original stitches.

For extra security, you can stitch away from you once more.
Materials Used
To demonstrate I used Jade Sapphire's 8-ply Cousin Coral to contrast with the Ivory swatches. To weave in the ends I used a Clover darning needle from this chibi set. Although, sometimes I prefer to use a tapestry needle for weaving in my ends; the bent tip helps grab the stitches easily.
What is your Favorite Technique?
As I said before, this is by no means a conclusive list of all the methods for weaving in ends. These are simply some of our favorites. What are yours?
--Laura
PS: the pictures at the top of the post are from the following stories: Winter Hats for Everybody, Baby Girl Fair Isle Cardigan, Big Herringbone Cowl and Perfect Fit Socks.








July 14, 2011
Reader Comments (48)
:D
My favourite tip for weaving in ends - or, rather, avvoid weaving them in at all - is to simply knit with the last few inches of the old yarn and the first few inches of the new yarn together for a few stitches. It's only really usable when switching skeins, but saves me from weaving in two ends, which is great. :) It has the same effect as weaving in by doing duplicate stitches as explained in the article, in any stitch pattern.
This is a great tutorial. What about covering the same content for crochet? I am making a ripple blanket with 6 colours and half-way through have only just started weaving in the tails when changing colours. I have to go back and do the remainder at the end. I'm still not sure if I'm weaving in correctly.
thanks
xxx
Splitting the yarn into thinner strands also reduces bulk.
If I'm changing colors in the middle of my knitting, I'll frequently weave in my ends as I go, weaving the end in and out of the new active color in the same way I'd use for long floats in Fair Isle knitting. (Did that make sense?)
I'll be referring to this post frequently! Thanks!
peggy
Very thing and very thick yarn make weaving in ends a bit harder. With lacy pieces, I tend to do somewhat of a duplicate stitch to weave in my ends. I take the end and follow a strand on the knitted yarn through the piece, changing directions occasionally. I weave it in much more than I would a worsted weight yarn, to ensure its stability. With bulky pieces, it totally depends on the stitch pattern, but I tend to weave in on the diagonal. It seems to be a bit less noticeable than having a handful vertical or horizontal stitches in a row that are extra thick looking.
Thanks for your question!
Slippery yarn is tricky. Wonderful to knit with, but a bit more difficult to finish. I tend to weave these types of ends in, following more stitches and using a longer tail, than a medium weight yarn. I use somewhat of a duplicate stitch technique. I take the end and follow a strand on the knitted yarn through the piece, changing directions occasionally, usually more than twice. I weave it in much more than I would a worsted weight yarn, to ensure its stability.
Thanks for your question!
I've been knitting for a while, but never knew all the possibilities of finishing a piece by weaving in the ends. I always feel like my ends look like a mess (but I'm a huge perfectionist about my work), & so I tried to take my sweet time on the projects to prolong the inevitable of weaving in those ends.
This will definitely help with my Christmas knitting this year!
Thanks also for the tutorial! It is so helpful to have such clear photos. Thank you!
PATTERN STITCH
Eyelet Pattern (multiple of 4 + 3 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all WS Rows: Knit.
Row 3: K2, *k2tog, yo, k2; rep from * across to last st, k1.
Row 5: K4, *k2tog, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 7: Rep Row 3.
Row 8: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-8 for Eyelet Pattern.
this came from Lion website free pattern:
http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/90731AD.html?noImages=&utm_source=20100611_June11&utm_medium=Emails&utm_campaign=Weeklynewsletter&utm_content=Babies-SummerStripesBabyAfghan
I'm wondering if weaving in ends should always be done before blocking or washing the work? That's what I've done in the past but I'm just finishing a project using Rowan Denim cotton yarn, which I know is supposed to be "blocked" by machine washing and will shrink somewhat. Should I wait until after I've washed it to weave in the ends?
I am knitting with a very slippery linen and am making a lace project. How shall I weave in the ends here??
Please see the response to bjb (7 comments above this one) on the subject of slippery yarn. Thanks for your question!
Something about duplicate stitch you didn't mention: you can use it to "close the gap" on stripes knitted in the round, by doing the duplicate stitch as if you were following the round, one row down, and pulling a little. If you do this both directions (one row down and one row up) you end up with nice even stripes where you can barely see the join.
So the question I have is this: Once you have used one of these techniques, what do you do with the end of the yarn? How closely do you clip it to the fabric? How do you ensure it doesn't pop out?
Thanks much!
Unfortunately, the occasional end will always present itself. It is simply part of hand knitting. When cutting the yarn after weaving it in, I usually pull the tail gently which causes the knit fabric to bunch some. I cut the tail then smooth out the bunched fabric. The tail should retreat nicely into your knit piece. But as I said before, especially with wash and wear, tails will pop out now and then.
Thanks for your question!
I am very new to crocheting and mistakenly l cut me ends very short! Like only left 1inch short! Is this something I can still do? Is there any tips any one has for very short ends?
Thanks in advance
Jai